So before I purchase another optimus box stove, should I expect this kind of inaccessible wick from every one I get?
No, The self pressurizing 8R, 99 and 123R have wicks. Probably the 8 does also. In other brands, same thing, the self pressurizers have the wicks. Enders box stoves are an exception having pumps and wicks. The Optimus 111 series do not have wicks. A 111 would be the next logical step up in power and performance from an 8R in my opinion.
Inaccessible was the key word in my question, I like the stoves with wicks rather than pumps but I don't like thread lock keeping me from accessing said wick.
Welcome to Classic stoves. Coleman is, as a rule, much easier to work on. Look for an Optimus 111 kerosene. Not 111T or 111B. Just a simple kerosene model.
Wicks are not inaccessible if you know how to access them. Once you have successfully gained access to your first stove wick, future wicks are easy. Using heat on a previously clean-washed tank (to get rid of fuel residues) only takes a few minutes, and careful unscrewing of the connecting nut only a few more. Here is the link I posted for you when you first acquired this stove: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/optimus-no-8r-first-steps-filler-cap-wick.92/ Best Regards, Kerophile.
Of the 111's, I prefer the "T" as it sounds soooooo good. Can get my roarer fix from other stoves. Many of my stoves with wicks have needed the wick replaced, a easy task once you do a few, scary on a difficult, rare stove. Some I have left if performance is good and little yellow in the flame. Duane
Hi, The Op.111 kero stove that has been recommended to you is a truly great stove, but be aware that thread-lock is used on its SRV...... Best Regards, Kerophile.
Thread lock does let go with heat try warming it in the oven before attempting to loosen assuming theres still a hex there to grab not touching the wick in mine till theres a reason to do so but will heat it before trying if that time ever comes
This is one of the first things I read after getting mine, problem is mine is ceased up and no way is it coming off with a simple wrench, I think it needs a lot of heat and 2 weeks of soaking with penetrating oil. I would love to see someone break mine free with a wrench lol
I have tried heat, but I stop just before the mushrooming of my brass starts, you can feel it when it is mushing. I have those, I will try it if and when I ever get the tread lock to give up enough to prevent making a round surface out of a brass hex lol
If you don't have a flare nut wrench (as pictured above) don't even try. If you tried with a regular open wrench, yup, it rounded. Even with a flare nut wrench, I had one I clamped my biggest pair of vise grips over the wrench for extra security. If you want to send it to me I will get it broke loose. Pm me if interested.
From the mechanic's bible, thou shalt forsaketh thy open end of thine wrench until all other options are exhausted. Bit of irony, there.
This may help. I've used this method successfully three or four times: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/using-ice-to-free-a-stuck-burner.23141/ Terry
If said stove is still in good condition, as in collectible and you care about the appearance, when using a vice or vice-grips (mole grips), add small pieces of brass to reduce the chances of permanent marks. Sometimes thick leather can work. Leather may slip if wrenching.
