High I have this stove on my boat and the quick light burner tubes had burnt out . I replaced them but on doing so this nut has fractured . Looking for ideas on best way to fix or replace but not sure as it`s trapped on the air and paraffin line by an olive . P.S I didn`t tighten much I think the split must have already been there or really weak .I`ve never seen a nut split lke this .
@Sea Mither Hard luck that. As you say, not a fault seen everyday. So, a quicklighter disassembled. The pipework Stinker of a job to get that split nut replaced, bearing in mind the the pipe has concentric outer (compressed air from the top of the tank) and inner (pressurised fuel) with an olive clamped on both ends of the outer pipe. I’d check with Mike at The Base Camp (source of that exploded view) whether he has spare 2346 or 2347 (depends whether for right or left quicklighter, looking from the front of the stove). They’re not listed on Mike’s Optimus spares list, but quite possibly he can help out. The trickier way would be to find a compatible nut and olive (Mike at Base Camp again) and with care cut off the olive nearest the quicklighter, slide the damaged nut off, new nut and new olive on, reassemble, job done. Good luck! John
I`d looked at your photo`s and thanks for posting them .Yes I thought about doing that and cutting the pipe but I think it will shorten the pipe to much,I was wondering about either brazing of silver soldering the nut in situ without sticking it to the pipe .I`ve never done either and don`t know if it will withstand the pressure of sealing on an olive .I`ve even thought of soldering/brazing and then putting a jubilee round the nut and running braze/solder in between the nut face and jubilee.
Lord no, I wasn’t suggesting you cut the pipe, just remove the olive from it - a cut (carefully) longitudinally along the olive with a Dremel cutting wheel without touching the pipe, just barely. Bear in mind its one pipe inside another, so hack through one, you’re soon through the other and as you say altering the geometry of the pipes by shortening one or the other, or both, is a no-no. Brazing, or even soft soldering (which would melt with the heat of the quicklighter in action) is out of the question. The heat of the torch would destroy the O-ring in there and the fuel would leak out as it does now. If you could manage without using that quicklighter to prime, relying on methylated spirits in the cup under the burner, you could remove the quicklighter and pipe to it. I think Base Camp stock a component to screw into the tank connector fitting in place of a quicklighter pipe, maintaining a seal. I recommend phoning Mike at Base Camp to discuss the problem. He’s very helpful and has parts that could resolve this.
I have nothing to add to John's @presscall suggestions on repair. It's just that this is the second nut I've seen split that way in as many weeks. The other was on a fitting for an evaporative cooler at my house. Perhaps these nuts have a stress weakness in that location? In any case, tightening a compression nut over an olive will stress the nut. I cut the tube and replaced a section of it in order to replace the nut. Not a big deal on a cooler. This does suggest you might look to small plumbing fittings for a replacement nut, if Mike can't help with a correct part. Best of luck getting it working. ....Arch
If you can, as John suggested, get the olive and but off the pipe without completely destroying them, there will be someone,either here or at CPL, who can, or know someone who can, reproduce them.
Hi thanks for the replies . John`s @presscall and @ArchMc I had been lighting both burners with meths as the quick lighter tubes had burn`t badly at the ends . I managed to get two more and had fitted them, this is when the nut must have split because before that I had good pressure . I could terminate one of the quick lighters as you suggest as I think the quick lighters started to give problems on the 155s in general so a termination plug was produced to terminate the quick lighters if required. It would be nice to get them working but not the end and I could plug and continue to pre heat with meths . I think that the nut will be sufficiently far back from the jets not to melt a braze /solder but I don`t know if it would be strong enough to take the pressure of the olive even if I could manage to do it . I wouldn`t have cut the pipe to remove the olive I would have fathomed it out and done what you suggested and would I think have sliced the olive These were my original burner tubes .
@presscall I can get the full pipe assembly from here either R/H or L/H at 27.50 but then it`s 18.50 delivery so it starts to add up .Originele Optimus onderdelen reserve onderdelen en accessoires Spares - Qvist Outdoor Cooking
@Sea Mither I’ve no commercial/friend/family connection to Base Camp! but I keep banging on about checking with them on a spare pipe assembly. Postage at least, as a potential UK source, will be cheaper. Silbrazing the nut would make it strong enough, and yes, it could be slid up the pipe away from the quicklighter. Still a tricky repair though (I’ve done some tricky repairs) and unless you can borrow a MAPP blowtorch and gas you’re into more expense than a new pipe - even from that overseas source. Trouble with the captive nut would be ensuring the braze metal doesn’t flow into the threads, or braze the nut to the pipe where its been parked. I personally wouldn’t attempt that with the outlay for a spare part as an option.
Thanks for your reply I will look at Base Camp and check with Mike .I had considered the implications of silver soldering the captive nut but didn`t know if it would be strong enough if I managed ,and never having a go before . This pipe is useless at the moment so I`ll take it off and access what I`m going to do. I`ve put the stove to one side until I`m in a better frame of mind with it .Watch this space and hopefully I`ll get it fettled some how . Thanks very much for your input and thoughts on this one last thing I think I read that you shop at B&Q for your braising /solder rods are they likely to have one for this job and if they do could you recommend what I should be using . I have seen on the net rod with 65% silver which says it has a high tensile strength but there seems to be loads of different options and I have no idea ?
@Sea Mither No worries about the strength of silbraze, it’s as strong as the original brass - the stuff without a crack in it I mean! I’m paying over the odds for the B&Q rods most likely but it’s a convenient source. Yes, let us know how your project goes please. Best wishes with it.
