I’ll take you up on that, intrigued if I can do any better with it. I’ll get in touch by ‘conversation’. John
@presscall - righto, John; with your experience, you may well be able to sort it - and if you can, I'll raise my hat to you with pleasure! With best regards, Gunner
Forum; As a 123 owner/operator, I'm following this thread with interest!...I expect John will wrestle that "pulser" into submission! Happy New Year stovies, from Connecticut!
Oh, blimey, Greeley - that's what I call deprivation! Can you get any English beer? Or could you get Hobgoblin if you moved to another state? (as I understand it, the laws regarding alcohol vary quite widely from one state to another). Reminds me of the old saying about another of my favourite tipples, Timothy Taylor's 'Landlord'. "If yer nearest pub wi' Landlord is three mile away, it's worth t' walk. If it's ten mile away, it's worth t' tram fare. If it's more than that, it's worth moving, lad!" Yorkshire wit and wisdom, at its finest!
I sincerely hope he does, Ronzo - and I'm very much looking forward to his account of how he licks it!
@Gunner Glad to be a bit of help ;-) Well - If John can’t get it right - then nobody I know of can! As I mentioned - the trick is often to hit the correct burner plate height (and the proper wick-fitting). Cheers
Oh, I'm glad you passed the info, Harder - very much appreciated. It's funny how what seem to be the simplest tools can require the most delicate adjustment to work properly. Many years ago, I worked for a farrier, shoeing horses, and he tipped me off to the importance of having a hammer handle exactly fitted to the size and shape of your hand. When you think that we'd be using our nailing on hammers for hours and hours a day, and the importance of being able to hit something as small as the clenched over end of a nail (about 3mm square) without injuring the hoof wall, even a tiny error in the shaft size would be enough to give you a very painful cramp in your wrist - and if you didn't sort it it quickly, could end up as a repetitive strain injury. If you looked at my hammer and my boss's hammer, the shafts looked identical; the difference in size was no more than 2 or 3 mm - yet he couldn't use my hammer for any length of time without hurting himself, and I couldn't use his! A bricklayer I knew at the time said his choice of trowel was just as critical, and the most important part was the blade, which needed to be forged from the thickest part nearest the handle to the tip of the blade, where it was thinnest - and, he said, that properly balanced, forged blade (rather than one just stamped out of sheet steel) was so critical for speed of working that, when you could go into a typical DIY store and buy a cheap trowel for £2 or £3, Steve was happy to pay £16 for his trowels! Like you, I will await the report from John as to what he does, and how it works out. With best regards, Gunner
Exactly the same phenomenon with a tennis racket handle ‘grip’ size. I don’t play myself but I gather selecting the right size is critical to play well and to avoid wrist injury. Yes, I’ll report back! John
@presscall No stress John - just a few thousand users in here watching you fettle this ;-)) @Gunner - same goes for pro. Snipers and Marksmen - most have that personal fitting of their rig in order to assure succes.
Oh, yes - I used to do target shooting with a Britarms .22 semi-auto. Small gun, but with a massive walnut butt grip, which I rasped and sanded down to an exact fit for my hand - so that when I went to the 'aim' position, it felt like it was growing out the end of my arm. My shooting instructor said "If you have to tense or twist any part of you to get on target, don't - don't change your body, modify the grip. You should be able to hold the gun without effort, lift your arm to the shooting position, and the gun should be vertical and giving you the right sight picture without any effort at all." He was right, too - and, thanks in a large part to his coaching, I ended up shooting in county level competitions and doing pretty well. With best regards, Gunner
Nah, it's fine; it's that damn impedance matching Tesla coil - goes unstable as soon as you hit Warp Factor 9 if you don't keep a good enough flow of Jack Daniels through the plasma generator. . . . grumble, grumble . . . never had this trouble with plain ol' black powder an' me matchlock musket, y'know . . .
IMHO pulsing is caused by internal pressure having to build up then discharge usually due to some kind of blockage in the path of the fuel flowing from the tank to the jet exit. Stating the obvious I know but the wick or a build-up of verdigris would be my guess. John (@presscall ) will bottom it I have no doubt. Si
@Big Si - I think you could well be at least partly right, though modifying the height of the burner plate (as suggested by Harder) made a dramatic improvement. As far as I could tell when I dismantled the vaporiser, spindle valve, jet and wick, there was no build up of verdigris or gummy crud. What I'm not sure about, at all, is how tight the wick should fit in the vaporiser, nor how big a gap (if any) should be left above the wick, to allow for a small reservoir of vaporised fuel to accumulate below the valve. My gut feeling is that Harder is correct in saying that these types of stoves can be quite critical in adjustment - and I could well believe that some or all of them tend to interact. So it may be the case, as with Amal carburettors, that you have to adjust the settings in a certain order, or else you wind up chasing your own tail. But I do agree with you that if anyone can tame the beast, it will be John! With best regards to you and yours, Si, Gunner
I agree, placement or ajustments off may affect other things or give false feedback, thus making inaccurate assumptions. Duane
