Welcome to thread hell. BD said: “Remember again, though, that in my opinion, many of these stove threads are special in-house custom threads designed to defeat the easy reproduction of critical components of the stove. In my opinion, a clever way to ensure that stove users were forced to buy parts from manufacturers rather than working something up in their garage.”
Maybe vaporizer thread has 60° thread angle and BSB is 55° thread angle? 'Loose thread' in female part might work/help. Once there is a thread in female part use thread tap to cut more material off from the thread: -by pushing it strongly downwards when making thread into hole again -turn part around and repeat above -try to force tap off from center axis of hole and cut thread again. Use different angles. (this method could produce too loose thread so be cautious...)
Also threads were not very well standardized when stove production started on end of 19th/early 20th centuries so that could be one reason for (what we nowadays think to be) odd thread sizes
I purchased a 12mm x 1.0 tap (non-standard, metric fine) to clean out the thread on an Optimus burner bell. Disclaimer: I used this method to attach an optimus burner bell to an Enders 9061 to create a roarer version which is NOT everyone's cup-of-tea, I'm aware of that, but the information may prove useful. If not, ignore this post. In case anyone was wondering, I kept the original Enders silent burner and can swap it back in an instant. Why did I do this? You need to listen to the sound it makes when it's running full pelt and feel the hairs on your neck tingle to understand why - it's incredibly impressive, very noisy and just a little intimidating but by does it heat things up fast! ....and... the original thread on the Optimus burner bell was very close, in that the pitch was correct but the threads weren't quite deep enough.
I have a fairly comprehensive set of taps and dies including BSCY, BSB, BSF and others. BSCY uses a 60deg thread angle whereas BSB uses 55deg. Where the diameter and pitch are the same (as is the case on some tap/die sizes) and only the angle changes, engineering practice states that the differing threads can be mated if there's no alternative. They term this a force fit from memory (or some term like that) but it's not recommended. If the thread stops after 1/2 or 2/3 turn, the pitch would seem to be different.
...and here are 7/16 BSCY and 7/16 BSB side by side. They are virtually identical and it would hard to tell apart if they weren't marked!
BTW, I had to increase the air flow by creating extra holes in the bell in case anyone thought it looks a bit weird!
Thanks @Colin Geer You can never have too many tap sets Are you able to tap a piece of scrap material with the 7/16 cycle tap and try it on an Optimus stove?
It is risky to use a tap/die to clean threads. They cut. I would suggest that you use a threaded bolt to lessen the risk of oversizing the thread. Using a tap should be for those well practiced in use of them. It has already been shown that you cannot use a tap to check the size of a thread. Fettlers unite. Help these struggling folks.
Hello. I live near the front line, but Ukrposhta works fine. I received packages from both the UK and China.
Hello. I am adding a photo of a silent burner. Adapted to clone 8R - PT 1 (PT2). Thread - metric 12x0.75. Burner - fits - excellent. I want to convert it to 8R. But, the problem with threading ....
