Hey, Optimist, It looks to me to be a straight, kero-burning, 111. I seem to see two burner tubes alongside one another, and that would mean two more on the other side of the burner, for all together. That means, 111 kerosene burner, and not petrol. Hope that helps. Take care, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc
Mr. bark2much. Thank you for the fine comparison photos. I say that because my 111C and T burns just like that. My C appears a little more reddish then the T just like your photo. You are on to something about mixing and matching parts. I've noticed a difference in the caps hole placement and height of the caps themselves. I havn't experienced the difficulties discussed. I've been lucky I guess. But I wished for a while someone at Optimus would explain why they made changes to parts and for what reasons. And what they do performance wise.
Dear All.. My friend has a problem... In the same times 111c steel tank the temperature is much higher than the 111t brass tank..Right? Not long ago...he used 111c fried steak,but One led to the 111C opening the tank lid safety valve....flame out..Now a little worried ... The 111c tank temperature under normal use about ?
Do you know whether your friend was using kerosene or white gas? When the fuel tank gets hot, it boils the fuel inside. That raises the pressure. Since kerosene has the lower boiling point, it would have a less chance of releasing the safety valve. If your friend was using kerosene, then using a large pan might contribute to the overheating of the fuel tank. Just a guess.
Also if the pan overhangs the tank heat shield . Heat radiates off of the bottom of the pan back to the tank. If you overfill or underfill the tank , The air pressure can rise higher . Generally the tank cap spews pressure for a split second and thats it. You would have to explain how much fire did come from the cap. Did it burst in flames or go out right away. Or just linger a bit by the cap.
Why not advise your friend to use kerosene in 111C, instead from now on? It would reduce the chance of blowing the relief valve. Also, it is a good idea as Diesel says, to use a pan that is not too large. If the fuel tank gets too hot to touch, and it is emergency, then cool the tank with cold water or wrap a piece of wet rag around the tank. Take the rag off, if it gets warm, and let the moisture evaporate--escaping moisture will cool the tank. Repeat the process, and the tank will cool down significantly. In winter, you do not need to worry about tank overheat, but in summer, 111C runs the higher risk of overheating.
This my friend send mail... It was an accident happend around in late Sep. we used the iron made plate to cook the steak but my wife didn't check the temperatur of the tank which filled with white gas, it was too late when I found the tank was so hot and almost exceeded 80-90 C then the a long fire flame sprayed out from valve roughly about 20cm lasting 30-50 secends till we used the wet towel to exstinguish it. it was an unforgetable experience for us and I do suppose that the tank of 111C is much easy to get higher temperatur than 111T, the question I have after that accident is at what temperatur in thank of 111C will automatically release the pressure? Regards
I'm not a 111 expert . My opinion, Based on what you say. The iron pan radiated the heat to the tank. Iron really radiates heat. Over the top of the shield. It got very hot . The fuel boiled in the tank under pressure. Which it can do without blowing the relief valve right away. It finaly opened the pressure relief valve and the hot boiling fuel spewed out the cap like a mini flame thrower. The fact that it flamed so long says to me. The fuel boiled and created a long continuous pressure enough to keep the relief valve open a long time. And it did not spew excess air it spewed fuel. Also fuel , like water boiles less under pressure. So when the relief valve opened the boiling accelerated. At the same time spewing the fuel. My only experience with such a thing . Is I boiled the fuel in a 8R with a 111B jet in it under a pan. I didnt blow the cap, but I listened for over two minutes while it boiled as it was cooling. Somebody will chime in. I was told the pressure relief works at 80 psi. Assuming you didnt get burned. You were then left with raw fuel which you put out with a towel. As bad as it sounds , It is a good learning experience. And not that bad. The stoves not going to burn. You know it can get real hot and work. I stewed about a similiar situation happening to me at work in an enclosed 10 by 5 control booth and the repercussions of burning it down . When liquid fuel is banned from the area where I work. In the end I cant see the thing overheating without the assist of an overhanging pan. Something like this.
Yep i made a jig thing so i can check them relieve valves. I have check some new ones and they check out at 75 to 80 psi. Also on all full tank only 3/4 full or less need air space or it blow off fast.
Update. Got the 111C working very happily on kero - the secret was a looong prime with meths. Still slow to boil compared to my 111B but seems a bit fiercer than on Coleman. Also kero in the UK is a fraction of the price of Coleman, but that is a long story
Optimist Coleman fuel prices are obviously a regular gripe for UK members, do a search on the forum using 'Panel Wipe', that'll keep you busy for a while and loads of options instead of using unleaded and the associated carcinogens. Simes
Kero is getting harder to find near me anyway. At one point it meant an eighteen mile round trip for me; so I did a bulk buy and now have over 100 litres stashed away It is easier in the winter as places like Focus DIY stock it for gardeners who use it to heat greenhouses in winter.
I just received a new in box 111C yesterday that I purchased on eBay. I'll try it out later this weekend and let you know my thoughts on how it compares to the 111T. It feels a little flimsier than my other 111's, especially the steel tank and the windshield.
"twice the time of 111B" I don't understand it - which jet do you have in the burner? If it is marked "M" alias 2509 - yes you will have a problem. On Coleman you had to use jet's marked "G" alias 2510, then you will have a powerful stove on Coleman fuel. Jet's marked "M" is for kerosene and diesel. Jet's marked "M" has a bore of 0,30 mm and jet's marked "G" has a bore of 0,38 mm. If you will try alcohol it had to be jet marked "A" alias 2508 with a bore of 0,51 mm.
My understanding was that the "M" jet stands for Multifuel, meaning it could be used for kerosene/diesel/coleman fuel/gasoline. As for the numbering, I just checked A&H and base-camp and they seem to conflict with one another on 2509 vs 2510. Both sites agree that 2508 is the "A" jet though.
"M" multifuel yes - but multi what Get a jet marked "G" alias 2510 - and you will get a powerful 111C on Coleman and white gas
I'll give that a try. Since they're only $5 each, I think I'm going to buy a bunch to have as spares and to experiment with. Also, on the original question of boiling times - my experience has been that the distance between burner and pot, even variances of 1/2" can have a huge impact on boil times. So it's worth playing around with burner position and pot support geometry.
I have all versions of 111's also the 111C, and I had exactly the same problem as you. On Coleman and the 2510 jet it burns powerfull and perfect blue and simmer as a dream for hours if you wich it, and there is no problem with priming.(use alcohol) The jet 2510 ("G") is the same jet used on 111T on Coleman. There is a big differens of jet 0,30 mm and 0,38 = 60% more fuelflow!!
