I just received this wonderful Primus 41. After speaking to the original owner, I learned that he had never burned kerosene, instead he had used Coleman fuel, Naptha, and possibly automotive fuel. It worked as it was, but I decided to change the washers, give the burner a quick blow through with carb cleaner and just do a bit of an overall inspection. The quality of this stove is just amazing. I reassembled it, gave it a very minor cleaning and tried it out. This is (I believe) it's maiden voyage using kerosene as fuel.
Hi Matt, loverly stove! They are a rare one here in the US! That might be a 43, my 41 is a roarer... I got one last year in a swap with one of our NZ Mates (Thanks Mike!), powerful burner! Mine tends to be a bit smokey when lighting, I suspect I'm not priming enough. Once its hot tho, yeehaw!!! Ingenious case too! Enjoy!
Matt, I've not yet convinced myself that the gooseneck feed pipe on these models just twists out of that hexagon boss on the tank. Any ideas how it's done? Maybe it's one of those tapered thread arrangements like those on burner-to-tank connections on Primus 210's? If so, it needs to achieve a seal whilst orientating correctly, with the gooseneck vertical. Any thoughts while you've been fettling yours? John
Hi John, I took another look at mine, and I can tell some of this was done during assembly. The large nut on the bottom (that the burner screws into)had to be a solid piece of brass and was machined and threaded AFTER the riser tube was attached to it. As far as the riser tube goes... The large nut or boss on the outside of the tank is soldered to the tank as I'm sure you know. The shape of the tank would not allow a wrench/spanner to fit it anyway because of the recessed position. I peered into the tank and see that the pickup tube inside is about half the diameter and it's soldered to another nut inside. I'll bet that the two nuts (one inside and one outside) are threaded together and squeeze the tank wall between them. This was probably tightened up using the nut on the inside before the tank was assembled. This would allow for a speedy assembly with the riser tube always in the correct position....or it was bent into shape after being attached to the tank. It does look to me like it's a tapered thread arrangement, but I doubt that you could remove it and reassemble it more than a couple times before the orientation would get screwed up. I believe also that the riser tube will probably just bend or the tank wall will "pop" out of shape. It looks to me like this would be a total tank fettle involving the separation of the two halves as mandatory. I'm VERY leery of just trying to unscrew things after ruining a beautiful Enders 9060N (silent burner..it looked just like an Enders Baby on steroids) and almost reduced me to tears! There is one thing...I'll bet that if you squeezed the riser tube into the padded jaws of a vise, with the tank becoming the thing you turn, you'd probably know very quickly if it was possible to just unscrew it...and not bend the tube. I'll let you try it first
Thanks Matt, I appreciate the analysis. What you say's spot on. Yeah, there's no way I'm going to attempt to unscrew that burner pipe! Sorry, buddy, but another question arising out of your fettle. You've removed the burner from the feed pipe ... is there any gauze in there? Given our reluctance to remove the burner pipe from the tank, there's no way that gauze could be removed, or inserted at the burner end through that sharp right-angle at the burner sump. Well, it might be possible to haul it out, but it would never go back in there that way ... I know, I'd best leave well alone on a fine working stove! Thanks again, Matt. John
John, there was nothing visible coming from that riser tube when I had the burner off....not even a thread. If there is anything in there, it's going to stay in there! You know...the diameter of that tube is so big that I think the only thing that could clog it is a squirrel hiding nuts. I'm with you..if it works, I'm not touching it!
