Simple and sturdy stove, no toolbox only two cleansing needles and combination key for changing jet and regulating the flame. Prodused from before under and propably after ww2. Not sure about after ww2. Steel tank, windshield and lids. Brass burner and spindle.I have 3 of these, one is Luftwaffe blue, the other two is Apple green same as most Juwel 33`s and the Wiktorin stoves i`ve seen. That`s the color of the Wehrmacht...Army of Nazi Germany
The windshield looks alot like Juwel 33, but the Juwel`s tank is alittle taller and would`nt fit properly. The tank of these stoves is painted in a very sturdy green color, my guess it`s called olive green. Other German stoves from the same period does not have the same durability on the tank paint,
The old German stoves is nice, but i never tried one other places than in the Norwegian Arctic. May be it would overheat in central Europe during hot summers, if anyone knows about this i would be happy to read about the matter
If life ain't for new beginners how is it that the human race is still going? Everybody got to start somewhere...
Hi everybody. This is my first post. I just bought a German gas stove. Sold on ebay as a "German WW1 Soliders [sic] Trench Stove 1915" -- it turns out to be an Arata 37 with screw on base and tops in Olive Green. No key, No cleaning needle. Cap was loose. Some white gas inside still. Regulator shaft won't turn. Any idea what it's worth? I've seen Juwels go for upwards of $250 on evilbay. Where can I get parts? In contrast, I bought my first SVEA 123 for $8 retail in 1970.
Hi SveaSizzler, welcome on board! Some of the real military Juwels go for much money. They are the Juwel 33 with all the correct stampings on them (waffen amt etc.). I also see many things advertised as being WW1, but recognising said items as being post WW2. Some sellers don't really care, as long as they can get some extra money out of people's pockets... You can buy seals from The Fettlebox, run by the owner of the site. His goods are guarantied to be of first quality. Regulator shafts are often rock solid, as people tend to overtighten them when the stove is hot. You can remove the nut that holds the graphite seal in place, and let things soak in a good debloc oil. Carefully try to get some movement in the shaft, without overdoing things. In the end, most will come loose again. I've made "new" keys myself to replace missing ones, also many people use the little clock winding keys. Original ones will be very hard to find. Cleaning needles for .32millimeter jets can still be found, but maybe your Arara uses a smaller (.23mm) jet. Best regards, Wim
Hi Wim, Thanks for the quick comback. Possibly, the key from a SVEA 123R fits the squared-end of the regulator shaft. Since It's really lodged in there, trying to turn it clockwise would only strip the shaft, or bend open the sides of the SVEA key. I know SVEA keys are available, but of course the ''nut'' sizes built into the Swedish wrench are all wrong for the Arata. Another question: this unit has some decayed foam rubber still sticking to the inside of the base, between the bottom of the tank and the bottom cap. Was that original? Did it serve a function like keeping the key and needle from rattling on a march? Anyway it's shot and has to go.
I can't remember having seen or heard of the use of foam rubber in the base cap, maybe someone put it there, trying to isolate the bottom from the cold ice or snow. The Juwel 33 was used by German alpine troops, also some similar stoves from other manufacturers. Yours could have been used by someone high up in the Alps who added the foam for the above mentioned reason. Just a guess!
