I've been bluing some steel stove parts (inner and outer burner caps, plates, etc.) instead of using high temp paint to seal them from rust. Has anyone else tried this?
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.aspx?p=1072 This is the product I've been using for a long time. It works very well and is a 'cold blue' as oppossed to a hot or heat required process. The product was designed for firearms bluing and is a pretty simple ordeal. Clean the product to make sure it's free from ALL greases or oils and apply. It usually works best right after you've finished the surface. It takes seconds and should result in a deep blue coloring. Apply oil to stop the reaction.
I was wondering the same? My question was serious. I've only really heard of blueing as a process associated with guns. Having never owned one I don't have a clue.
Yeah...Before and after pics would be excellent... and ... perhaps a pic after its been fired to see how it holds up....
there are a number of bluing processes hot bluing as used by gun shops and cold bluing the older methods browning blacking and oil blueing one easy method uses copper sulfate as a base chemical so is a but safer although long winded but produces a lovely nutty brown colour a lot of the cold blue paste's use corrosive chems such as caustic soda (not nice on the skin) although it is quicker to use i may still have some of the recipes somewhere here
wedgie, the product listed is a lot less dangerous than a hot blue but provides hot blue-like results. most cold blue processes are window dressing for the most part. they are minimal protection against rust and corrosion. hot blue is the way to go,...but this product is fast, easy, all but messless,....and friendly to the wallet. and like mentioned above it's the best protection from a cold blue, rivaling a hot blue.
Would cold bluing be the way to go for pan rings? Anyone tried it ? the heat might be the problem, and the pan ring would have to be squeeky clean I should think to get the blue to take.
Gordon, I will be trying that in the next few weeks and will also be running a few tanks of fuel to test the effect of heat on the process. I have one stove that the inner and outer caps are already blued,....the pan ring is up next,...then heat! I'll be sure to report back when I find the time. The right cold blue will chemically bond with the metal but you're right about being squeeky clean. Any oil residue kills the reaction. I believe it'll be fine with the heat. A firearm after all can generate a pile of heat and they seem to do just fine.
