I am repeatedly reminded of the difficulty of obtaining lead washers for stove repair, since lead is treated as a toxic substance. Copper washers of all sizes, on the other hand, are readily available in most hardware stores. Has anybody tried copper washers as a substitute for lead, in the riser tube - burner joint, and for the NRV? Yonadav
Hi Yonadav, I think the main reason for using lead is its softness. No matter how often you assemble-disassemble the stove the lead will 'deform' a bit to ensure a good seal. It would take a lot more force to force the copper washer into a perfect seal. Regards, Wim
Hi Yonadev, I've got an Op.111 with a copper NRV washer. It takes a bit more force to tighten and seal, but it does work. The thing that worries me is that I'm not sure which is softer....brass or copper. If brass is softer, the threads will probably suffer if the piece in question is tightened too much. I pound out lead fishing weights on a small anvil and use a pair of tin snips and punches to make my own lead washers. It works well.
Hey Yonadav, why are you in difficulty in finding lead materrial. Go to any shop selling fishing stuff and get some plate lead and make your own.
I have not seen plate lead in any shop in Israel. Fishing shops (the few that there are) only sell ready made lead sinks, and tire shops have lead wheel balancing weights. Lead is not used here for plumbing, roofing, or any other traditional craft. Anyway, my interest is not on how to obtain lead, but on whether copper is a fair substitute. Did anybody try copper washers with negative results? Yonadav
Yonadav: I think what Sefa was suggesting is to get a few finshing weights, and with a hammer and a steel plate(I use a small bench anvil), flatten them to the thickness you want, and then punch out the size washers you want. If the washer thickness you want is thin enough, you can cut the lead with scissors. Paul
Lead Flashing may also be another sorce. Copper washers will work well once but will work harden if used repetedly. There is a fix for that. You can anneal the old washer over one of stoves that works. Simply heat it up red hot, and set it aside to cool. Your old coper washer will be soft as butter agian. I use to reuse solid copper Triumph head gaskets this way. Rick
For those of us here in the US, here's a source for lead sheet: http://www.mcmaster.com/#lead-sheets/=amya20 9032K111 Lead Sheet 0.042" Thick (+/- 0.006"), 12" X 12", Approx 2-1/2 lbs/SQ ft In stock at $16.41 Each Murph
I do order from MacMaster car my self but I have to do it through work. Since they are an industrial supply they dont seem to want to deel with us mere mortals. Granger is another potential sorce as well. Rick
Simple answer from me: I tried a copper washer for the NRV and it leaked. I replaced it with a lead washer that I made, no leak. I'm sticking with lead washers.
I have used copper washers of the correct size for doing burner to riser seals on some standard 2 pinter brass 3 legged stoves. They have been successful in getting a good gas tight seal and were also able to be re-used if the burner had to be removed again at a later date. Clean and tidy as well. It is best if these copper washers have graphite paste on them as undoing the burner later means they come apart with a 'snap' which can be quiet scarey.
We discussed this a while back & I was of the opinion it wouldn't work - that they'd distort on tightening. Not so sure now. The Vapalux lamps use a rubber washer on the NRV & I tested the VITON ones I make for the lamps & they are fine. It may be because the valve is bigger & therefore the washer. I may try on the small stove NRV - I suspect they will still distort due to the small size. I'm finding the lead NRV washers I'm making with CT's punch (my own, not the round-robin one!) too tight but it's ok on hdpe as that is tougher & can be forced into place without wrecking the washer.
I melt fishing weights in a tin pour some of it onto a flat pice of steel sheet. if it is too thick hammerit flatter. Run a drill through it then trim to shape with tin snips or scissors. All the trimmings go back in the melting tin. It does not need to be a perfect circle, as it is going to get squished as you tighten the burner. never had a leak. Neil
I think copper washers may well work for any static joint. E.g. riser tube to burner connection each side of the priming dish. I think they would need to be thin enough to distort into the grooves typically found on this joint. For joints that are regularly broken down (e.g. burner to tank) then I don't think they would be suitable. For the NRV, some people here have successfully used punched out washers from plastic milk containers. I personally have adapted this to punch out NRV washers from 4 litre plastic kero containers on the basis that material is bound to be fuel resistent. I seem to recall reading some time ago that some plastic milk bottles were being introduced to be biodegradable over time. Don't know if that ever became prevalent so maybe my caution is unfounded as the council still seems to collect them every two weeks for recycling. Cheers, Graham.
G,,day this may help. there is a large range of copper washers used in diesel injection. they also may have alloy. most of them are rather narrow annulus. ie skinny between id and od. diesel injection places are the best source. and usually cheap. at least at my injection place. also plumbing wholesalers here still have sheet lead. cheers kerry
Hi I would stick to lead for this application but I do vaguely remember a Hipolito stove I have that used a copper washer between tank and riser. I thought there was a post here showing the joint but can't seem to find it just now.
