Ok I am trying to refurbish a very used 1961 and have a few questions. First was the brass one the stove painted black, second how can I remove a seized cleaning spindle and did enders use anything other than the long pump? Mine came with what looks suspiciously like a US M-1942 pump but the cap does not look like it was done by a hack. Anyhelp would be appreciated.
I think the small pump might be from an Enders Baby 9063 which fits in the 9061 pumptube, but I would not recomend using it because it is harder to get enough pressure. The cleaningneedle spindle might just need a bit of force to open again. I have had two 9061 standing in storage and I got one open by just using a bit of force. Perhaps warming the spindle up might work or try to unscrew the joint that holds it together. I usually have a rule that you shal not use brute-force on any stove parts, and not work on maintainance while stove is hot to prevent damage.
Hi, you need to get some photo's to let people see what you've got. The 9061 that I have (for sale on here at the moment) has still got the original light grey finish but I have seen plenty with the polished brass tanks not sure about black. When I got my one the cleaning jet lever didn't do much I just gave it a good soaking with WD40 and gently and slowly moved it until everything was working ok. I think the needle was partially stuck in the jet.
Ihofeld, greetings and welcome to the "Endere Elite" The paint on your civilian 9061 was grey at one time. There is no specific rule that I know of what determined whether the grey finish should have been a single tone or a hammered finish. Someone obviously swapped a shorter pump tube for a longer one, it is more of an I convenience to pump more pressure while using the stove if it will build pressure providing all the seals are good. Under NO circumstances should you force the needle elevation lever!! If it is stuck, disassemble it and remove the control spindle. Be careful to not loose the tiny spring steel holding sleeve and the square pin common to that spindle. It is a telescopic assembly and made of mostly brass. Doing this will also access the graphite packing. Inside the burner the actual needle evevation control terminates with a small disc with an off centered pin (again brass) which connects to the needle/valve assembly by a small groove. Once you have removed the elevation spindle you can then heat and apply WD or liquid wrench until it is free. If the needle control pin is sheared off there is no way to raise or lower it then. If you would care to swap your short pump tube, I have the peoples size to replace. Chef BC 8-[
Hum, must also agree not to use force on the needle lever. But when my 9061 during storage got stuck, it did not take much work to free it again. Here is a better view of how it looks like dismantled https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/14666/
For some reason my post did not update. The spindle is already damaged. The shot shows the pump. I have three of the 9063s two users and one really pristine, a four pot stand 9060, a 9060N, a 9060D and two 9061s that are both rough but should be good users.
Now that I see the photo of the subject pump, that IS a pump from an M-1950 stove which leads me to question the integrity of the threads. I see you also have the military version stove, I had mistakenly thought you had the civilian version. I would venture a guess that my pump may not do any good for you.
The pump on the right is a M-1950, middle is a M-1942 and the right is. The pump as it came on my 9061. It appears that someone took the 9061 cap and bored it to accept the m-1942 pump. The seal it like tire rubber and once I get it apart I will see what they did to the pump body. My intention will be to do they same to a M-1950 pump and use it. Otherwise it will take a lot of pumping to pressurize the tank. I also have 20+ M-1950 pumps so I would not be sacrificing anything.
It's a moderate capacity tank and with a pump cup washer and non-return valve in good condition, a shorter pump tube wouldn't result in noticeably extra effort to get the fuel pressurised. White gasoline fuel tends to self-pressurise when some heat from the burner is conducted to the tank anyway. John
