Ross, do you have anymore decals? I would like to do a complete batch in one go, I'm also after Monitor, Valor, Burmos and FL6 labels All the best
Hey, Runegutt That made me laugh But if you did I'd probably mislay them before installation I've ordered the paper and almost finished painting the case. Was just thinking; seeing as the final result will be sprayed with varnish, what's wrong with printing on a self adhesive label and using that? What was used originally? All the best Jim
I'm pretty certain that decals were used originally. You could use a label but the decal film is much thinner than any label you're likely to get and thin as labels are, I daresay there would be a pronounced 'step' at the edge of a label. I can't help feeling that a s/a label would look like a s/a label whereas the decal is supposed to look as though the design is painted or printed on.
Hello All, I have been enjoying the forum on decals and this site in general for quite a while. I am also playing around with the idea for decals for the Pr 71, and others of course. I spent a few weeks pondering an ALPS printer and tied into the Yahoo forum of alpsdecal to glean information. My conclusion was that the image sizes might be too big to get clean original looking decals and that I would get print head striping like I used to get from my very old first injet printer. I am still playing around with other ideas. The ALPS printers still fetch some serious change on ebay anyway. I am determined to use clear water transfer paper so the clear decal edges beyond the image area will look like the originals, and will probably experiment with screen printed white underlayer and inkjet to start. I have a long way to go. I did notice on the alpsdecal forum some individuals were using Futura acrylic floor sealer on decals for waterproofing before cut out and application. I have several edited versions of the Bahco Pr71 sticker on hand if anyone needs an image file. One version is cleaned up with the oiginal mottling of the colors left intact but without serious spots/stains etc. Another edited version has the colors cleaned up so they are contiguous without any apparent coloration flaws. Editing was done in Photoshop. You can email me if interested, and I will be glad to send along an image. Being new to this forum I am unsure how to post the image files and would rather send to an individual anyway. Mmmmm....sorry for the long post, Regards, -D
I use the OKI version of the ALPS engine - the DP5000. With the OKI/ALPS you can print a white layer underneath the artwork - basically you have a slightly smaller black silhouette of your artwork & chose the white ribbon for the first pass, chose overlay then print the full colour artwork on top. There is also a ribbon available that puts a clear layer of the decal - I don't have mine hear or the driver installed at the mo & can't remember what it 's called I've also heard of Johnsons liquid floor polish being used to seal the decals, although I've never bothered. useful link: http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/aungstdecal/CustomDecals.htm
Thanks Ross for the info on the OKI DP5000, and thanks for the link too. I downloaded your Pr71 decal image a week ago or so - thanks for sharing. I am still studying the process and if and when I come up with something exciting I will post it. I really liked the appearance of the photo posted of the Pr71 with new decal on this forum , so you have changed my mind somewhat on the ability of the ALPS/OKI method. Those printers are in hot demand on ebay over here, so are pricey. The yahoo alpsdecal forum I monitored for a while had descriptions posted by many individuals using straight colors in overlay starting usually over white, and not CMYK dot matrix combinations on model decals such as for smallmodel aircraft, and on scale trains. The overlay methods included re -labeling other makes of cartidges (Kodak & others) with applicable barcode stickers so the ALPS would be tricked into using them as the printer reads the labels to ascertain which cartridge it is going to use. That's a lot of fussing about on the part of the operator to get to the goal, so for whatever reason (I suspect final quality considerations on the small decals) they had moved the printing trend away from color/dot printing to straight color printing ie combined passes of various primary colors: Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, with white (or RGB colors from other cartridges) in order to achieve the desired color, (with overlay combinations). I'm not forgetting black but it was usually not used to obtain a specific orange for example, but was used under silver and gold. After all the review I did on that forum, my signature statement applies: The more I learn..... Anyway my turnoffs for ALPS style were: Lack of color control on the overlay method. Printing on adhesive backed aluminized mylar was not very successful and I was hoping to possibly make Opt 111 and 8R stickers for repainted boxes. I need to read through this decal segment of the forum again to see who is using standard inkjet printers and how they fare with them, as I have the equipment and can probably put down white or gold with a silk screen first. I am willing to suffer through the printer alignment issues. Does anyone know how the original Primus decals were printed ? Thanks again for the response, D-
The one's I've had a close look at are - or very similar to waterslide. They used a yellow undercoat.
Well that's an interesting development. I must look into the yellow under coat. You mean on the originals right ? I have always believed they are waterslide because the clear carrier (edges of decal)yellows with age depending on storage condiditons (I think), and what else was available in the early 50s ? I have a couple originals with fairly clear carrier and some that are badly affected by UV I assume. I will review some various Pr71 decals under a microscope for a closer look now that you have piqued my interest. Thanks, D-
yes - the originals - certainly on the stove with sunrise background decals. Here's one of the decals I did with the OKI: http:// I must admit I've not done too many for myself - mainly others to order. I've got the artwork for the spiritcans underway but other stuff keeps pushing to the front of the queue. One of the neatest sets I produced was for a modeller who wanted a model helicopter in US coastgaurd livery. I used the logo from the website (no prob with resolution as the images were being reduced a great deal). I also did some tiny lettering for warning signs on the chopper - I was amazed how readable the lettering was - on an inkjet it would have been eligable.
Thanks for the last post with link to the Pr 96 sport tin photos with freshly made decals. Those look good. The spirit can label is a nice idea and I can understand the project balancing act (without use of a net) It's not easy. I will report back after the microscope review I wanted to perform is complete. Thanks D-
Hello All, I got a chance to review a decal up close on a Bahco box for Pr71from '54 (AT) on a microscope. The decal has a good sized chip out of the center section and per Ross's previous note about yellow base layer: Yep, it sure does, and I can see the black was printed last too because it can be seen around the edges where black goes over the bump off of the underlayer towards the edge. There is possible evidence it was originally screen printed. I took some photos but need help making them available. Thinking of a blue flame D-
