Hi stovies, there have been many posts in the past regarding the use of high heat paint, for certain parts of our collection of stoves lanterns and blowlamps etc. For example on stoves, pan supports and wind shields, lanterns the enamelled burner hoods, were either plated or coated in enamel. over the years these protective coatings have become damaged and worn away, exposing bare steel to the elements as well as taking away the beauty. And to have these parts re-enamelled is expensive and in most cases well exceeds the value of the stove lantern. There are many heat proof (high temperature paints) on the market but even though these are not as good as original enamel in looks and protection they do offer protection from rust and improve the looks of lantern burner hoods wind shields etc. There have been posts and additions to posts where these paint can not stand up to the tempertures as described or only last a short period of time or not at all. I have recently been using a high heat paint, made by Hammerite, on a burner wind shield on a American Otto bernz blowlamp, a WW11 army issue huge brazing lamp and a pan support for a small parasene stove. The temperature this paint can withstand is up to 600 degrees Celsius but this is the problem and the reason for this post. It says in the instructions on the can it can withstand temperatures up to 600 degrees, but it needs to reach that temperature for the first time gradually, otherwise the paint will blister. This is fine for a wood stove cast iron fire place that will reach full temperature gradually but not on a lantern burner hood or a stove priming windshield that has had a flaming meths torch etc. placed in direct contact with it. I tried this and in no time the fresh paint had developed blisters. This is how I overcame the problem and the reason for this post. This is how I overcame the problem and if this method as been posted before then my apologies. I used a high powered hot air paint stripper. I had just restored the WWII blowlamp. I painted the steel burner wind shield and then slowly heated the part with a hot air paint stripper, at first holding the gun about 2 foot away and constantly moving it, gradually moving it nearer to the point where the gun was close to strip normal paint and to the point where water was dropped on it, it fizzled away. I repeated this on the Otto Bernz lamp and the Parasene pan ring. These have all been fired a up a couple of times at least and the paint has stood up to the temperature without blistering, cracking etc. OK it would not be expected to withstand a direct flame from a blowlamp etc. on it as that would exceed the 600 degree temperature. Here is he blowlamp working [media=youtube]h_ttahDfOy0[/media]
Here in the US, there are powder coating kits that do well for that sort of thing, and I've used a small toaster oven to do what you did, slowly bringing the part up to bonding temperature. Also, some folks use DuraCoat or DuraHeat for painting stoves, the DuraHeat is good up to 1800 deg F (980 deg C), damn hot in any language!!! Murph
Hi Brian. I've not tried the Hammerite high heat paint but I have used the 'Halford's VHT Engine Enamel Paint' to good effect, but it's only available in matt black. The brush-on version which I use is rated to 650c but the spray version is only rated to 500C. I used it on my Tilley AL-21 lamp: It dries to a satin finish but any areas that get really hot go matt and slightly grey. Also used it on my Swedish Military Tent Woodstove. You can see the greying effect: It has lasted well but has suffered around the base of the chimney (my own fault, I over filled the stove with very dry wood and the base of the chimney started glowing red!). It also works well on stove cases like the Primus 71 and British Army No7, so long as you don't mind a non-original look to the case. Personally, I prefer a non-standard looking but durable case, rather than a perfect colour match that burns off the first time it is used. For stove cases, pot rests and lamp hoods etc, I stand them on top of my indoor woodstove for few hours. With the tent stove I lit a small fire and let the temperature build up slowly. Regards, Terry
Hi Murph that sounds really good I am impressed 980 degrees C that is perfect for our purposes. Hi Terry very nice pictures, a shame a bout the stove over heating around the chimney base. I agree these high heat temperature paint only come in matt, I am not sure if hammerite do any other colours other than black I will have to check that out. It would be brilliant if these manufacturers, could come up with a high temperature paint with a gloss finnish, it would not be as good as original enamel but would come quite close and our restorations would look much better especially on a Tilley guardsman with the brown hood
Yes, I've never seen a gloss VHT paint either. The stove didn't suffer damage, just the paint in the area turned to dust. Soon fixed with a new coat. Terry
Nice one Terry, a slow burn in the stove and there should be no problems. I have had a look on the bay at hammerite high temperature paint, and can only see black, I assume black is the only colour hammerite do at present
Here in Canada, we have VHT engine exhaust paint meant for the exhaust manifolds, ie; really hot. Some are marketed as "flame proof" as well (somewhat pricey, but far less than re-enamelling) and come in several colours, though I've not seen 'gloss' finish, only mat or satin. I imagine most auto shops would have similar (I've only checked Cdn Tire stores). ALL these paints require gradually hotter curing - best done in ovens or stove-top.
Don't matter which VHT paint you use, or how you apply it, cure it, bake it, it will never, never be up to the standard of what you are trying to replace. I bite the bullet and remain happy with the the original stove that I can still use. Steve.
I agree with you Steve no paint will ever be up to the standard of the original finish. Usually on most stoves, there is little other than a pan ring that is either plaited or enamelled, its mainly lantern hoods to protect and just to make the restoration look good, on a few of my blowlamps, IE the American pattern and my monster brazing lamp, part of the burner cowl is made of sheet steel and the original finish has long gone, so it will protect from rust in the damp shed and look better. If only having these parts re enamelled would be cheap and cost effective, I would love to have the brown hood redone one my Tilley Guards man.
To be honest Steve, the original paint jobs on stove cases were often pretty poor in the first place. I don't know why they would apply a finish that they knew would burn off with first use. I'm not trying to replicate a finish, just prevent further deterioration . Terry
G,,day. I wonder if there is something available at a moderate price that could be used in conjunction with a potters kiln for glazing what they make?? just a thought. cheers kerry
My take on the matter is that the factories used the least expensive paint they could find as they were most concerned about appearance when selling than using the stove. I find many products that seem to be made that way. Poor paint not affecting the utility of the product, I mean. I've also wondered about the tins and cases of high quality stoves being made of thin, cheap tin plate painted or lithographed with quickly deteriorating coatings, i.e. ink, not paint. I've got a Svea 121L and an Optimus 00L in very pretty tins, tins that will dent, peel or scratch at the sound of a harsh word. Why? Expense. I wonder about a potter's kiln being hot enough to melt stove parts. They do melt glass. Gerry
Here's an opportunity for some ambitious soul with the right equipment to see just how hot stove cases really get. I have seen the cases for 71 and 80 stoves fairly burned to black but not so much on 111 or 8R type stoves. Then again, I put an aluminum sheet in the bottoms of my little box stoves to catch food bits and reflect heat upward. It seems that corrosion, exacerbated by heat, does most of the damage.
I didn't see any temperatures remotely approaching those the stove paints are supposed to tolerate when I did some thermal imaging of stove firings An Optimus 99 fuel tank heat shield reached 53 degrees Centigrade ... ... and the control key intentionally left on a Svea 123 spindle to see what temperature it reached got up to 71 degrees John
I have used VHT paints on my stoves as protection against corrosion, not for cosmetic looks. Its true that few of us can replicate a "factory finish", but a painted/coated surface is much more durable than bare/rusted metal.
Just been into Halfords and noticed they have Gloss 'High Temperature Engine Enamel Paint' in Black. Claimed to withstand up to 300c. Didn't buy any as I have a nearly full tin of their 650c VHT matt paint, but it may be worth a try. Terry
