I've been working on a Burmos discus. Despite seals all round the pump tube is filling up with paraffin. On closer inspection it's the cap at the end of the tube that the NRV screws into that needs resoldering. Problem is it's nickel plated. I've repaired plenty pump tubes before but realized today never a plated one. Does soldering ruin the plating? I'd rather leave it if it does as it's not needed for use. I have a growing stack of users as I work my way through the pile in the shed.
Thanks Mike - tackled it today & all went well, although caution meant two attempts at a airtight seal around the tube on replacement.
Nice job. Nickel will discolor if too much heat is applied and excess solder can be difficult to remove without damaging the nickel, otherwise it is just like brass. Mike...
Hey, Ross, Very nice job! What type of torch did you use for it? Mapp gas, or propane? Brand? I've got to tackle several such jobs that have been in the que for several years. But, first, I'd like to get a dependable torch, as mine seems more like a flame thrower, than a soldering torch! Again, well done. Take care, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc
Hey Doc Do you have a tractor supply store out your way? We do here in Michigan. you can pick up a small map gas + oxygen bottle welder set up for under $35. It comes with a torch tip similar to oxy-Acyt attached to the tanks via hoses. It is very small and precise and a great price to boot. I have tried to silbraze with straight map gas and a screw on the bottle self igniter typs torch tip but it is just too wide of a flame and does not provide the precision needed (at least for me). I ended up too hot in some areasand not hot enough in others, but keep in mind I am no world class welder either. Good Luck Dave
OK, mates, I'm gonna let the cat out of the bag and pass on a few tricks to make silbrazing and soft soldering easier. Mask off the area you'll be silbrazing (silver soldering for us Yanks!) with black India ink. Silbraze won't cross it and flow, and the stuff's impervious to heat! A soft graphite pencil (think carpenter's pencil) will do the same for soft solder. :o You can use liquid paper correction fluid over a soft solder joint to keep the solder from running if you're doing other work nearby, and cheap-arse toothpaste works well as a makeshift heat fence, too! For silbrazing, thin your flux with meths, NOT water! The meths flows in the joint, and flashes off when the torch comes in, whereas water boils and spits flux all over the fluxing place, and your work is all fluxed up! I'm gonna shut me piehole, already told way too many "family" secrets! Murph
Hi, India ink is the dense black ink that traditionally would have been used for technical drawing and perhaps in solicitor's/legal offices. I believe it is based on carbon-black which probably explains its masking properties when soldering. Regards, Kerophile.
Curious if Basecamp sells trivets as it would be a good accessory for the stoves rather than the pot sitting on the round bars. Or has anyone come across a supplier of good machine pressed trivets? Ron
If you happen to own a dremmel tool, one of the bits available is a red rubber wheel with a very fine abrasive embedded in it for fine polishing of metal. It erases soft solder on brass when used with a light touch. You can make a sloppy soldering job look very factory. Don't ask how I know this.
Mask off the area you'll be silbrazing (silver soldering for us Yanks!) Murh = are you refering to the same silver solder a plumber uses or are you refering to the siler brazing rod?? I am very good at plumber solder but not much experience with the rod type. Just tried it and did not go so well. more practice
