I have got my 111 from E-bay and after stealing some parts from my 123R I've managed to get it running, now the BIG question. How do I change the rubber pump washer to a leather one? What parts do I need? Please remember I don't have many other stoves to canibalise from, as I've not been collecting as long as some of you Si
I have just compared an old rod with leather to a newer one rubber sealing. It looks to me that the only parts You need to replace is the sliding part, the piston head. The leather cup is held in place by a hollow screw and a nut. Useful parts should be possible to find within a range of other stoves.
I think you should use the o'ring style washer for a while as see if you like it. I think they are great.
I understand that you need to thread the end of the pump rod, to accept the small nut that holds the leather pump bucket assembly in place on same rod. I found the O-ring piston on my late Opti. 00 worked very well. Apparently, the O-ring doesn't like extreme cold, but that was never a concern here in pastaland
Thanks for your answers so far chaps. I'm going to have a look at it next week. I'll carry on with the "O" ring for this week, I've tried lubing it with greese, some improvment but not much Si
Hi Si, You could just replace the O ring. There are loads of this type of kit on ebay: O RIng Kit Loads of uses around stoves. The thicker ones can also be cut up to make NRV pips and they make great temporary repairs for filler cap gaskets when you're out and about and don't carry a full fettling kit.
Thanks Graham. I have a metric and imperial kit already, I must get some nitrile sheet at some point. I will have a look at changing the rubber ring tonight or alternativley I may size it down on the drill, I've done this with air rifle piston seals in the past. Ai
Si this is quite cheap. I have been using it on my lanterns. I cocked the postage up, it should be £2 because it is quite heavy but I will sell this lot off before I change the postage.
I use my stoves here year-round in Colorado. Summertime the O-rings work ok....at high-altitutde 9,000 to 11,000 feet and below freezing, then I have problems. I'll convert mine to leather (which I did to my other 111T) ASAP. It really fixed up my problems (at least as far as the stove goes, all other problems remain in full force!) Tim
This picture is of the pump cup on my English Coleman Solus. It came that way to me. Works just fine and very simple. If I were thinking of converting a 111, I think I might get the brass carrier from Base-Camp and try something like this. Drill one small hole, insert cotter, bend, done. Hope this helps. Cheers, Gary
Gary I was thinking along those lines myself. I have a busy weekend (Scouts do St Georges day big style) and then the first NEFTA Hunter shoot at my club, plus some hunting and mending some shelves at my mothers, so it may well have to wait till next week. However sailing starts up again so we'll have to see. Si
Recent , reinforced experience , out side (inside0 of anywhere cold.. think below 10 deg C .. Is that I'd far rather trust a bit o leather & oil than i would a ISO9001 cert . Trihyrdonoxyultrahytemppieceoplastco 'O'ring .. Basically = It didnt work for me . Hide & oil for pump seals in E.Lancs Your mileage may vary .. etc .. Optimus 'lost the plot' introducing 'o' rings . Flat face seals are risky .. 'o ' rings are pushing it ... Nick
