I just purchased my first vintage "pocket stove", a coleman 530. I own a vintage coleman two burner pump stove and lantern so I know a little bit (just a little) about how these things work. I replaced the filler cap with a spare I had on my lanter and added some fresh coleman whitegas. My problem is that when I put pressure on the pump it does not apply that pressure into the tank. There is a ton of back pressure against your thumb and when you remove it you can hear the air blast past your thumb. Much like when you screw the pump all the way closed, except it is turned all the way open and still won't pump air into the tank...here's where I'll fess up and it will get more interesting. When I bought the stove it would force just a little air in the tank but there was only a tiny bit of resistance on pump. So I thought "the leather is dry, better oil it!" I used 30 weight motor oil with some STP oil treatment in it...I'll be honest, I probably used too much. Now when I push the plunger down it seals great, but when I place my thumb over the breather hole it feels like it's plugged and won't force air into the tank. I'm not sure if it's clogged, or if the oil was too thick or what, but I need some advice on how to proceed. Thanks -cale Owensboro Ky Coleman 530
Just my guessing here, but it sounds like a combination of an NRV needing attention AND maybe the thick oil contributing to the problem. ???
It has the typical coleman pump, turn the handle to the left several turns before pumping, then right to close when done pumping
Hi: Remove pump shaft. Flush the pump tube with lacquer thinner, swab with soft colth then put penetrating oil in tube let soak, then blow out with compressed air, oil lightly with 30wt or under motor oil and try again. Mike...
No, no, I am with exactly what Steve said. Turn the knob a few time to the left before pumping and once required pressure is achieved, close the NRV security valve by turning the pump rod to right. I very like Colemans this security measurement.
Cale is using the pump correctly; I agree with flivver on the solution. The check valve is stuck shut and can sometimes be un-stuck with a little light penetrating oil -- and sometime not. I have an old M1941/520 with the same problem and I am tempted to fill the pump tube with oil/kerosene mix and apply some real force. It is soaking presently.
I am using the stove correctly, I have the plunger turned full counter clockwise as you would to add pressure to the tank...I think the problem is either A) the oil I used gummed up the check valve or B) there was a bit of grime in the tube that was loosened by the oil and is now blocking the check valve. I plan to clean/soak with laquer thinner/carb cleaner/penetrating oil.
Hi: Forgot to mention. Empty fuel and leave cap off. After cleaning and soaking blow compressed air again into open pump tube to test check valve. If air comes through filler opening all is fixed, if not check ball is still stuck. This test will save you from disassembling twice. Wear goggles so spray back does not get you in the eyes. Mike... P.S. Before pump disassembly sure to open pump a couple of turns or check ball will be locked. NRV replacement is almost never necessary. See post in this forum on types of pump oil.
Lefty first the oil is way too thick. Light machine oil is all that is necessary. Some here think olive oil, some think any kind of vegee oil, Coleman says any light oil. I prefer sewing machine oil myself. Or 3-in-1. For your situation i suggest kerosene and then flush with a lighter substance within the petroluem line. following that light machine oil of your choice. The orfaice in the NRV may indeed be clogged but that should clear it. 530's, like most coleman products, are near indestructable so not too much can go wrong. If you want to replace the NRV you will have to trim the square shaft of the sealing valve before using the new NRV. lance
GREAT NEWS!! I put some carb cleaner (I didn't have any kerosine on hand) into the tube and cleaned it out until it ran pretty clear. After that I added some more and let it sit. I applied pressure a few times and had no luck so I let it soak. Then I went out into the garage and...slowly at first (probably blasting out the thick oil) and then all at once with a blast the air flew into the tank. I put the cap back on and applied pressure and could hear the air escaping when I took the cap back off. I'm having some more problems with getting it to start, but I'm going to address them in a new post since it's a new batch of problems. Thanks for the help!
Great news!!!! Carb cleaner is what I use for such problems, works better most things. It is designed for this kind of purpose too. Shame about the smell but its better than kero I guess. Cheers, Jeff
Thank you Krankiev. It is a picture of Coleman 530. I have been playing with all of these type of Coleman burners lately. Jeff
I purchased my first 530 stove and the fuel flow was erratic. So I refurbed the leather cup, replaced the fuel cap O-ring, took the generator out and soaked in carb cleaner and the screen in vinegar, used flivver's suggestion for the F/A valve (and dumped all the lacquer thinner out, refilled with fuel, pumped about 50 times (it holds pressure) turned the knob 1/4 turn and tried to light it. A huge burst of flame then it blew itself out. Then very sporadic bits of fuel through the generator. What am I missing? Thanks to everyone who answers.
