It's What We Do!

Discussion in 'Stove Forum' started by marblecreek, Oct 13, 2009.

  1. marblecreek

    marblecreek Subscriber

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    Most, if not all, have been there. Browsing through a shop, junk store, a friend's storage shed and something catches the eye. Further inspection of the object reveals a stove that has endured years of neglect and abuse. First thoughts are that one should rescue the find, but second thoughts of comments from a significant other: "What, another one of those? You already have about 200 just like it that are way nicer than that one. Groan." However, your better judgment prevails (third thought) and you decide to take on this project because you just cannot bear to see a noble stove suffer so. And so it goes....

    crudbox.jpg fixed8R.jpg Flame.jpg


    Extra Info:
    Stove Location: Junk Store
    Model: Optimus 8R
    Cost: $5.00 (half-price :D )
    Fettle: Electrolysis, Paint, Wick Replacement (mop strands), Cap Seal
    Missing: Repair Tool, Key Chain
    Broken: Clip for Repair Tool on Case
    Comment: The whole stove looked like it was torched and then left in the rain for a long, long time: black and rusty. It's just amazing how well these stoves clean up.
     
  2. Matukat

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    :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:
    Darn nice restore!
    WHICH 111 or 8r?
     
  3. marblecreek

    marblecreek Subscriber

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    Optimus 8R. I did a post edit to add this information. Thanks.

    Steve
     
  4. Pitsligo

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    SWEET!

    Alex
     
  5. Knight84

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    Awesome job!!! I do like these 8r's and 111's in black. Did you use a high temp. paint?

    One of these days I am going to chrome plate a 8r :lol: :-k

    Cheers,
    Jeff
     
  6. marblecreek

    marblecreek Subscriber

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    I have found that the combination of an automotive etching primer and high temperature automotive engine block paint is durable and heat resistant. I also use a dilute solution of phosphoric acid on the metal case immediately upon removal from the electrolysis bath. This inhibts rust and provides a good surface for the primer. One needs to be careful not to use too concentrated a solution of phosphoric acid or the paint will not adhere.

    Steve
     
  7. Knight84

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    Thanks Steve!

    I will have to try that phosphoric acid out one day. I have heard a lot about it here on the forum.

    Regards,
    Jeff
     
  8. DAVE GIBSON

    DAVE GIBSON Subscriber

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    fine work,and i think it shows that these were made very well in the first place and can survive abuse and be brought back to just not working but looking good.
     
  9. theyellowdog

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    Or just buy a chrome plated one, happy hunting!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 2, 2015
  10. Bom Bom Bom Bom

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    Hi MC,

    Stunning :clap: :D/

    Cheers, Graham.
     
  11. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Hi Steve, very impressive fettle.
    It is always a good idea to passivate the steel-work with phosphoric acid solution after electrolysis treatment.

    Any excess, or un-reacted, acid should be washed off with methylayted spirits, and the item allowed to fully dry before applying the paint systems.

    Incidentally, most etching-primer paints for steel have Phosphoric acid as the active etching ingredient.

    Here is an earlier post that discusses the practicalitiies of using Phosphoric acid in stove restoration:

    https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/3963


    Best Regards,
    Kerophile.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 2, 2015
  12. Brerarnold

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