Questions, my Coleman #2D winter fettle project

Hi all: Here is my home made rack for the oven on early Colemans. At the time I made it I had only a fuzzy Zerox of a photo to go from. Joe's photos and dimensions would have come in quite handy. The length I settled on was 13 and 3/4 in. close to Joe's 14in. The fuzzy photo I used did not show the ends well so I did my own thing. As I did not get the dimensions perfect it folds a little lopsided but still fits and functions well. Yes I did "step" the center folding rivet area. Mike...

 

Mike:

For only having a fuzzy photo with no dimensions to work with, that's a helluva nice job you did just using the good ole Mark I eyeball to "guesstimate" the lengths & widths and where to place your rivets.

I did notice the "steps". They're just barely noticeable.

Joe

 

Well, started more serious cleaning this weekend. The electrolysis dip look nasty just after putting the grill/grating thru the dip. Lots more pieces to go. The grate is almost uniformyl black steel so far, just a few spots of chrome finish left. Much of it was rusty to begin with.

Here are 3 pics. 1st is the stove almost fully disassembled. Still can't get the burners unscrewed from the chassis.

The next picture is the dual burner. Note the annular tub shaped preheater. Also the spring shaft left burner control.

Last picture is the brass generator and gas tube after cleaning and polishing. Not bad considering that the parts were covered with a thick layer of hard black carbon?

 

Penetrating oils

Jim.....The homemade solution from the Old Town Yucca site might be worth a try for freeing those screws.

 

Jim: Try "PB Blaster" most stores carry it including W-Mart. Sorry USA only. Mike...

 

Morning, Jim,

Have you tried Maltby's Penetrating Oil? That's what I was using on the Glenwood, and several other stoves, at the last Gathering. I need to buy more, now, though, as it works fairly well. Also, do you have a tight-fitting, large-bladed hollow-ground screwdriver? I have a complete gunsmithing set from Brownell's, and it's the DB's. The large bits will help remove tight fitting screws, and may well work on your burners without damaging the screw slots. If you want to plan a time for us to meetup, I'll bring the set, and we can give it a go. Let me know, and we can go from there. I have found a large gunsmithing set of bits to be perfect for usage on stoves, as well as firearms!

You're making great progress on your old stove, Jim. Thanks for sharing the results with all of us. Take care, and God Bless!

Every Good Wish,
Doc

 

I was using a homebrew penetrant, 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. I saw it mentioned on new oldtown Yucca. Supposedly more effective than PB, Kroil, Liquid Wrench et all. I used a heavy screwdriver that had a tight fit blade but it isn't working, maybe because it is the usual mechanics type. None of the screws have moved noticable in over a week of soaking.

I do have a hollow ground gunsmith set that I will use next. Also have some Maltbys and Kroil and PB Blaster so those may go next. Last resort may be torch and maybe candle wax. Last last resort is to drill out and retap, hate to do this tho.

Jim Henderson

 

Hi, Jim,

I don't think you're going to have to go down the "drill and tap" road on this one. Keep soaking and trying, and maybe apply a little heat, and I'm thinking those old screws will come free. Remember how we had to heat the Glenwood camp stove parts at the Gathering? Those things weren't going ANYWHERE, no matter how much tork I applied, UNTIL we heated them up. Then, VOILA, apart they came! Please keep us posted, and if you've got a large hollow-ground bit in your gunsmithing set, give that a try. Those tight-fitting HG bits are very good at helping to release stuck screws. Take care, and God Bless!

Every Good Wish,
Mark

 

Jim if you use heat apply it directly to the head of the screw and not to the body of the burner. In so doing you will free only the screw and not heat the burner enough to cause it to fracture. A welders torch is needed here not a butane or a mape torch.

lance

 

I'll see if my mini Oxy/propoane torch will do it.

Starting to dip the sheet metal panels of the stove. I noticed the reation and current were down so I pulled my sacrificial Iron out. I am using a left over brake rotor from my car. It was scored so I had it laying about.

After dipping the stove grate and a BBQ grate(test subject) I was surprised how much RUST was on the rotor. There was at least a quarter inch layer of crusty rust. When I first put the rotor in the dip, it was essentially rust free on the machined surfaces.

The rust crust wiped off by hand revealing a very smooth greyish surface. It was night so I didn't inspect thoroughly but it seems as iff the metal surface had been dissolved down to smooth metal. Will be interesting to see what it looks like in daylight.

I think I need to discard this batch of dip and start fresh since it seems the reaction is going slower and it makes me uncomfortable about how much sediment must be settled at the bootm of my "tank". I wonder if that is creating a circuit which is slowing the reaction.

Now how to discretely get rid of 10 gallons of nasty looking water.

Jim Henderson

 

Storm drain. Go to where it goes underground and pour it down. That concentration of soda would not be considered a hazmat material. Or into your flower garden some where in the backyard. You surely will not be hurting the garden or the ground water there.

lance

 

I used the cleanout pipe to the main sewer of our house. Nice 8 inch pipe. Down it went.

Essentially it is just soapy water with rust in it.

The top cover looks pretty good. Black where there was rust and shiney steel wher the paint came off. Great paint remover tool.


Jim Henderson