I recently had some thoughts about how one might be able to set or adjust the safety release valve (srv) on the fillercap of a Svea 123. I have not tried the method I am describing and so cannot be considered as having a clue about what I am talking about or know of any inherent dangers when attempting this method. I also do not know if this method has been described elsewhere on CCS. Maybe it has? Method: 1. Begin by loosely setting the srv for minimum pressure on the seal. 2. Prime and ignite the stove. Maintain a very low simmer flame. Watch to see when the srv releases by holding a flame over it or however works for you to notice it releasing. 3. Tighten the srv till it no longer releases while maintaining a low flame. 4. Now that the srv won’t release on a low simmer, turn up the flame to get a maximum burn and adjust the srv further till it won’t release on a maximum flame at maximum heat but just barely won’t release. 5. Try test running it on the hottest cooking you expect to do on it and nudge the srv if necessary so you have an acceptable amount of pressure to keep the srv from releasing at your hottest cooking temps. 6. Further adjustments may be necessary to compensate for lower atmospheric pressure at high elevations. This method assumes that the tank will not fail before the srv releases internal pressure and that the tank is robust enough to hold up to your most rigorous cooking conditions. Watcha think?
I think you might wish to increase the amount of your life insurance policy. Testing to the point of failure with potentially explosive air/fuel mixtures just doesn't sound quite like a good idea to me. Buying a new cap seems far safer. One man's rather in-expert opinion. HJ
SNOWGOOSE rather thoughtfully posted a copy of some reprints of the December 1973 edition of OFF BELAY. https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/12016 The entire posting is nothing short of fascinating, but this page may be of particular note: From the text of the aforementioned: I would still commend to you the use of extreme caution, but perhaps the preceding may be of help to you. HJ
Your a very funny guy Hikin_Jim, I read your comment out loud and the room lit up with laughter, Well Done Cheers'
I am not sure how information about gasoline burning stoves can help although info about what internal pressures the Svea 123 is designed to maintain does help if one had an ability to measure such things. Or was I misinformed by the members of CCS and the information available here regarding the fuels that a Svea 123 can burn? I was under the impression after asking here at CCS and reading up on what information that I could find here on CCS that I should use only Coleman fuel in my Svea 123. Not that I consider a Svea 123 to be a particularly safe stove to use in the first place. Any carelessness during priming can be dangerous. Yes I am aware that the "official" CCS policy is to just get a new cap. Afterall, any purchases from the sponsor benefits CCS. And that's always good isnt it?
Have a fire extinguisher handy & conduct all experiments in the car park of A & E . Sounds a bit DANGEROUS to me . 8-[ Nick
A "gasoline" or "petrol" stove typically is run on Coleman type fuel rather than actual automotive gasoline. Whether actual gasoline or Coleman type fuel, the pressure settings would still apply. Members here have actually put together gauges to measure pressure. Setting the SRV's, not that I'm by any stretch an expert, is a very tricky and complex process, requiring a high degree of technical knowledge and equipment. It seems to me that unless one is prepared to invest in the infrastructure necessary to test and also invest the time it takes to gain the necessary expertise, setting the SRV is a task best left to others. The main problem I see with testing SRV's to the point of failure is that when the SRV does release, it releases a pressurized "jet" of vaporized fuel and air. Typically, the heat of the stove will ignite this pressurized jet, and a fireball will occur. This ball of fire will be unpredictable in its size and behavior. Testing a stove in this fashion seems to me to be an enterprise of extreme danger. Also, will the SRV release properly at all or will stove fail at another point in an even less predictable fashion? Work such as this seems more suited to an EOD or bomb disposal squad than the average stovie. These are my opinions only, so take them for what they are. And please, even if I joke about life insurance, no insult is intended; I only try to make the point in a colorful way that testing SRV's to the point of failure is an extremely dangerous undertaking. Having said that, it is up to each individual to decide what risk is acceptable to them. Mt. Everest was not climbed by "playing it safe." If after considering the risks, you make the determination that the risks are acceptable, I will respect your choice for yourself and read your posted results with great interest. HJ
HJ, Thanks for the responses really. It made me go back and read up again on what Coleman fuel is versus naphtha and white gas. Im still not sure I understand. Without specific chemical names for the ingredients and pie charts to represent their proportions in these "fuels", the names for the fuels are rather ambiguous. I mean I found one source that included kerosene as a naphtha. Obviously, just because kerosene, white gas and Coleman fuel are naphthas does not mean that they can be considered the same. Very confounding. Y'all. I have absolutely no plans on attempting what I am thinking through here. Really, just a matter of mental exercise. Kinda like how mountaineers plan a route before heading up the mountain. They may not head up the mountain after all. The way I look at it, what I proposed would result in a srv more likely to release than to have the tank explode. Thats what I am really wondering. If I had to risk either, I would rather have my srv release than to have the tank explode. I'll take the smaller fire ball with no shrapnel please. After reading what I wrote, I couldnt imagine attempting to "adjust" an srv on a running stove but, the way I wrote it, it certainly reads that way. Like I said, this is more a mental exercise. Thank you gentleman for the kind discussion. You are a very knowledgeable and experienced audience to bounce these ideas off.
The definitions of petroleum products is confusing. To make matters worse, the names change country to country and even within countries the same word may indicate different things. For example, in the US, "oil" could mean crude oil, motor oil, light lubricating oil, etc. Perhaps the following will be helpful: Code: Fraction Carbon Chains Boiling °C Major Uses Gaseous hydrocarbons C1 - C4 0-20 Gas fuels for cooking and heating. Naphtha C5 - C7 20-100 Solvents for varnishes, dry cleaning and cracking stock for methane Gasoline C5 - C12 40-175 Fuels for internal combustion engines Kerosene C12 - C18 175-300 Jet engine fuel and diesel fuel No. 1 Diesel Fuel or Gas-Oil C18 - C24 300-400 Diesel fuel No. 2 and cracking stock for gasoline Lubricating Oil C20 - C30 Non volatile Lubricants and cracking stock Paraffin Wax C25 - C30 solids Candles, packaging, polishing, petroleum jelly, and water proofing Residue Bitumen > C30 solids Asphalt and road surfaces, waterproofing These distillates are further refined to produce fuels, solvents, and other products that meet specific criteria. These criteria vary depending on manufacturer, destination country, retailer, and targeted use, making it difficult to accurately define attributes such as composition, toxicity, heat output, and performance between various fuels. You will notice that Naptha is effectively a subset of gasoline on the "lighter" end of the gasoline range. Coleman fuel is a Naptha based fuel but with additives and with a chemical formula that makes the fuel just a bit less volatile than straight gasoline. "White gas" is an old term that is now used to describe Naptha based fuels. Originally white gas was just plain gasoline. When the practice of adding tetra-ethyl lead (to prevent engine "knocking") came to be, red dye was added to the leaded gasoline. Hence the term "white" gas distinguished plain gasoline from "red" (leaded) gasoline. Note that "white" gas is not the unleaded gasoline of today. Generally, a "gasoline" stove will burn best using Coleman type fuel which will burn more cleanly than automotive gasoline. If only automotive gasoline is available, unleaded is a better choice, but whenever automotive gasoline is used in a stove, the stove will not burn as cleanly, and automotive gasoline is typically more volatile (less safe). Hope that helps, HJ
The earlier replies to the proposed method of testing concentrated on the safety aspects. So those aside (I've nothing to add to the excellent advice already shared), the other point is that the testing method just wouldn't work. Each time you set light to the vapour eminating from the SRV (doesn't matter if the tester or the stove sets light to it - it will light even if you don't want it to) the seal in the SRV will be damaged beyond further safe usage. Therefore you'll need to dismantle the SRV and replace the seal and then start the whole process again. The proposed method, apart from being unsafe, just plain won't work in my opinion. Cheers, Graham.
Just as a matter of interest to Uk coleman fans, and slightly off topic, Coleman used to supply their lamps in the UK with naptha. There was a coleman depot and wharehouse near Bristol back in the 70's. I had a relative that worked there, and she gave me a double mantle lamp for christmas 1973, this came with a quart of naptha , and the instructions said naptha was to be used at all times. I bought some more tins of naptha, but eventually used leaded petrol,(not good). Still got the lamp, but not used it for fifteen years, still afeared to, is naptha available in the UK?
Gordon, I believe either Panel Wipe or Aspen 4T should work for your lantern. Aspen is often sold as lawnmower fuel. If those two are not available, Coleman fuel from an outdoors shop should be available. HJ
hi Gordon panel wipe is the equivalent i'd use or aspen 4t which ever is cheaper (if it was a self pressurising stove i'd go for aspen as it builds up pressure better i found,if you use it in pump up stoves then panel wipe is just as clean burning and the pump will give it a bit more welly like aspen) lighter fluid (petrol) is naptha if you really want to use naptha
