A reasonable price for a used Coleman 442/Feather/Exponent (it has all those names on the plentiful labels on the tank!) prompted me to dismantle it to its component parts, since I've been curious to see the 'innards' ever since getting a brand-new one but couldn't justify a strip-down on that Here's the fuel valve. You'll notice that no amount of tightening of the valve shaft sleeve (that threaded ring to the right of the shot, just alongside the red control knob) could stop a fuel leak, unlike on older designs with a graphite fuel seal. Why? It's a couple of 'O'rings in there now and a fuel leak would be due to failure of one or both of the rings and replacement called for. You'll notice too that the two rings are of different colour, blue and black. Can't figure why that is. I've some blue and black 'O' rings in my car parts store and had been told that one (blue) is for hydraulic fluid applications, the other (black) for petrol/oil/water. Beats me why the Coleman has both Just to the bottom left of that photo, you'll have seen the tip of the fuel/air pickup tube. Here's sight of the complete item, which takes a Shraeder valve (just like in a bicycle tyre set-up), given the safety feature of a coil spring to supplement the valve's internal spring to make certain that the valve shuts off the fuel when it's meant to. You'll notice too the nitrile seal (a bit 'O'-ring like but of a wedge cross-section rather than circular) at the base of the fuel/air pickup tube threads. The check-valve, featured a bit later in this strip-down, has a similar nitrile seal. I'll point it out when I get to that Sure enough, a bicycle valve removal tool was used to extract the valve in the fuel/air pickup tube A quick tour of the generator, which has a pricker wire running through its length, taking quite a tortuous journey around those sharp curves, but working well enough. I pulled it out a bit too far ... ... and had a tense moment coaxing it back in without kinking it, knowing I'd need a new generator then. Fortunately I managed not to damage it, and checked that it emerged as it should at the jet end when the fuel control lever was in the 'off' position (which also cleans the jet) Now, that pump check-valve. They can be a pain to remove, and my view, shared by CCS's truly knowledgeable Coleman collector/users - 'flivver', Texas, Arch, Doc et. al. - is to leave them in position and if found to be faulty try to get them functioning by light oiling and cycles of pressurising and depressurising of the tank. Still, for this strip-down I gave removing it a go, using a large screwdriver that I ground to fit the slot closely. I clamped the screwdriver in a bench vice and turned the tank on it. I strained a bit, cursed some, then crack! the bond of the valve/tank threads released and out it came. You'll see the valve is equipped with another of those nitrile seals, like the one on the fuel/air stem Now, I just happen to have a 1938 Coleman 500 in bits at the moment, so I set its pump, air valve stem and valve alongside that of the 442. Same basic design, but a rubber (plastic?) pump cup now as opposed to leather then, and a greater bore in the check valve of the '38 item, requiring a bulbous air valve stem sealing tip Just for the record, the 1938 valve on the left and the 2006 item on the right. Again, you'll see that nitrile seal on the newer version. My adapted screwdriver removal/installation tool won't fit the '38 check valve slot, which is narrower than that in the modern item As I've just said, the stove's dated 2006. Pretty obviously stamped on the burner housing Reassembled, I fired up the stove - pics in a 'reply' to this post. John
Couple of shots of the reassembled stove. Simmers well ... ... and really puts out the heat when required John
John if you don't like the plastic pump washer you can still get them in leather I may have a couple still..
John, supherb tutorial once more. If ever I have to fettle my stove, I have something to go back to. Truly master class. Happy New Year. RON
thanks for taking the time to do this - it is much appreciated (also have a 442 'Feather' - 4/08, according to the burner support stamp... (interesting that the 442 founts are not date stamped, unlike the Exponent Multi Fuel models, which are date stamped on the bottom) btw, Coleman also lists the founts for the 442 Feather *and* Multi Fuel [550] as 'discontinued'?!?!
Evening, Presscall, Your tutorials for stove dissassembly are flat-out fantastically done!! The photos are first rate, and your use an artists eye when laying them all out!! Well done, my Friend, well done, indeed!!! As always, many thanks for your fine efforts and your wonderful attention to detail! Take care, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc
Hi All, John, excellent presentation again , great job and thanks for taking the time to do all this.Your posts come in real handy when I need to fettle any stoves of the same variety , thanks again Tom
Thanks all for the positive feedback. Seems I'll be doing some more dismantling for a while yet! John
Sorry not to reply sooner Heron2000, only just accessed CCS on getting back home. About the only thread sealant I use is on the fuel valve to tank threads. The threads are tapered so tighten up to make a seal but the sealant lubricates the process and locks it (but not so that it prevents unscrewing the joint again if you need to). The other screw fittings don't really need anything in my opinion. The screw holding the burner washer plate and washers in place gets hot in use, obviously, so any lubricant there would have to take account of that. I suppose powdered graphite would serve, but I've not found that any of the threads on this model become seized in use, provided it's not left out in the open and neglected to the point of getting rusty. I gave the control valve 'O' rings a dab of silicone grease to aid assembly, but a smear of liquid soap would do equally well. John
one more question - have you every replaced the small blue washers in the valve. my is worn out and the only what to get a new one so far is to order a complete valve from Coleman.
Hello Heron2000 and Welcome to the site! You best bet for replacing washers or orings in your stove is to head down to the automotive parts dealer. They should be able to find you a oring the right size and made out of fuel/oil resistant rubber. Cheers, Jeff
which would be much more than simply purchasing the valve assembly? Part # 400-5551 VALVE ASSEMBLY $10.09 p.s. i purchased a big box of assorted nitrile washers in many assorted sizes from very small to large from Harbor Freight for $8, IRRC (it also offers a similar selection in Viton for $15)
went to the local Coleman outlet store today - they are having a 40% off sale and guess what they have - 4 Dual Fuel Feather 442-700 for 54.99 ea - 40% puts them at $33. they look just like my 442-700 that i bought in 1995. Silver in color. they are also in old looking boxes.
nice score! they were going on-line via amazon for $38 w/free S/H, so i imagine that's a good price... shame the 550s and 442s are now made in China though...
