Still new to this. I have an old Optimus 8 that I'm trying to restore ( and I've already bored some of you with previous questions about it). While cleaning the inside of the tank (citric acid of course, Albert ) I saw that the safety pressure release valve (the early slotted version) was leaking. I stripped the valve and found the spring in two pieces . I fitted a similar spring from a retractable pen and cleaned and reassembled the valve. It now works to some extent, as I filled the tank with cold water, fitted the valve then inserted the tank in very hot water. The valve eventually leaked water. So it works somewhat - but it's anyones guess at what pressure. Would any of you experienced fettlers attempt to light this stove and [-o
You must be awfully lucky to secure an 8 for the price less than that of a fuel cap. Anyway, I cannot help you on the specific psi for the fuel release valve. But I think the spiring from ball point pen is a little too weak. If I guesstimate correctly the strength, it might work for the check valve on fuel pumps. I would suggest that you visit a local hardware store and get to the individual bins, where they sell springs. I am almost sure you will find one that would fit your need. While you are there, check out also the plumbing section and get a few 3/4 in OD rubber gaskets for the fuel cap seal. It may swell a little upon contact with fuel, but it will last quite a while, and when you see it is no longer serviceable, just replace it. They are very cheap. Also try to get graphite packings, just in case your stuffing nut continues to leak flame, even when it is tightened up. You can get the official maint. kit, but these are cheaper and will last for a LONG time.
Thanks for your reply, bark2much. What's left of the original spring does not feel more powerful than the pen spring. Just a wee bit bigger o/d. I feel that even choosing from a large selection of springs would leave me just where I am now - that is, is it strong enough or too strong. Incidentally, I have used a slightly different pen spring in a pump valve repair, but of course there is not the same danger. As of last Friday the washers are not a problem. I bought my first set of 12 hollow punches and I made the washers that you suggested . I look forward to making many different types.( Now where can I get a piece of 2mm lead sheet ) Thanks again Jim PS Yes, I was very lucky with the price but it didn't look much when I got it .
"Now where can I get a piece of 2mm lead sheet" My first thought was to suggest builders merchant but they would probably want you to buy a whole roll. That sort of quantity would last you until the end of time and then another couple of hundred years on top. Better to try a builder - look for one who's in the process of doing a roof job - but any builder will have scraps suitable for your needs.
The safety pressure release valve should at least open before about 29 PSI, and close at a preesure higher than 15 PSI. My experince is from an old Radius, and other Optimus stoves. Loking at the parts catalogues the part-no's are equal. The no 8 is a self-pressure stove, and when the temperature in the tank increases the gasoline reaches quite much of a pressure. In hot temperature, ore useing a large pan or utensil the valve opens, and release the pressure, the gas will often lit, and the tank is spotting fire. This makes this types of stoves not suitable for using inside a tent. Older versions of the stove had no such valve, only a soft-soldered plug Dag S
Thanks, Dag. That's useful info. So, I bodged a car tyre valve to the end of the feeder tube and connected a pump. I soon discovered that the valve was leaking . I'm not sure if its the little cork/rubber seal or if the leak is where the valve outer screws and seats to the tank lid, thus bypassing the safety feature. I'll play around some more but methinks I'll not be lighting it with this pressure release valve in place . A good learning experience though. All the best Jim
Who wants what info . I will try to answer the lot. I have used o rings in this safty valves. I don't know if theyare the same set up or not. These o rings had to be orded from a bearing place. IE in Aust Bearing serveses, Skf There should be a host of them. When useing a wod punck , Have timber (lumber) edge on the cutting edge. This will protect your punch from blunting. Stoves work on 25 psi Can the valve be adjusted tighter? I can send some nitrol to you if it helps. Lead; Plumbers don't use this any more. Can't sergest where to find it.
Albert, Thanks for your reply. I had already read your tip for using end grain with the punches and that's what I did 8). Regarding the valve seal - you have a Private Message. All the best Jim
Yesterday I removed the old dried-up seal from my 8R's slotted-top fuel tank cap. I replaced it with a 7/16" ID by 1/8" section O-Ring. This size fits snuggly. The little stove's working very well now. Dave.
Plumbers don't use lead for pipes anymore, but a true plumber works with lead and will do a better job of roofing gullies, flashings and lead roofs than any roofer.
Sheet lead in myriad sizes and thickness can be had from any reputable ship chandlery. It's commonly used to repair minor leaks in wooden vessels and major leaks in old, decrepit wooden vessels. Nordicthug
Now where can I get a piece of 2mm lead sheet i am not dead sure but i think i have a part roll of lead under a bench in the garage maybe 6-8 inches wide and some lengh i will check tomorrow if you get stuck let me know pete
I am currently selling a petrol stove tank lid on ebay. It is item no. 6142770385. It is unused even though it is old. It was part of the unwanted parts in a job lot of spares that I bought. For some reason the lids are selling very cheaply. I think that the last one went for ?2.45 although I know another collector is interested in this one and he tends to bid high. If you miss it I will be putting another two on ebay later. Lead sheet can be bought from builder's merchants in the UK. Unfortunately you will have to buy a small roll. It is sold in different widths for use as flashings on buildings. You want Code 4 thickness. This simply means that the lead weighs 4 lbs a square foot. This used to be the way that it was specified but when the building industry went metric the lbs was dropped and code was put in its place. Simply buy the narrowest roll that they sell. Whilst this is more than you need it will still cost under a tenner and will make more washers than you can ever use. I use the left overs from a roll that I bought when I replaced some damaged flashings on my house.
I am the last person to advise re fixing stuff, stoves or otherwise. This is just a note re lead. I once bought about 20 duck wieghts, just because they were on sale for almost nothing and were made of lead (I think). These are about a foot long with a bigger end and you use them for wiehting down decoys. Anyway these have proved very useful over the years. Just hack off a piece of the metal (lead I think) and pound it into whatever shape and thickness you need. Good for walking stick ends (ferules??), kids school projects and so on. Not for detailed quality work tho.
Several of my local builders merchants sell lead by the metre. Try the smaller local merchants for this... suffice to say Jewsons, etc. will only sell it by the roll. Also, for the amount you need, they will almost certainly have little off-cuts laying around that should cost next to nothing. If you know a friendly plumber or roofer then they should have off-cuts too. I give all mine to a friend of mine who casts bullets (or something like, I haven't asked). If you ever get to see a 'proper' lead worker on a roof, take time to watch. The real ones are true craftsmen. I don't know one end of a lead-working dolly from the other, but I know enough to be impressed. Cheers GC
