Hi, check out this seller's advert: http://cgi.ebay.com/PRIMUS-NO-71-CA...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item48399da19c I have always reckoned the use of "O-rings" as cap seals should be discouraged but read what he is recommending for leaky Safety Valves!!!! I'm surprised he has not collected a Darwin Award if he follows his own advice. Best Regards, Kerophile.
Where did he get the idea that an o-ring would be more suitable. He definitely would get the darwin award for that. Again, some nutter trying to make less than a buck. I guess times are really hard and brings the best and the really worst kinds out of the woodwork. Ron
I have been using "O" rings for cap seals for the last 32 years or so without a failure. An "O" ring of the proper size and of proper material is every bit as safe as the original material. And a whole lot cheaper and easier to find. lance
Crazy ptfe tape for a leaky valve i doubt would not last half way through the primming stage not alone when it fully operational lmao
I'm happy using P.T.F.E for gland seals .. even exposed to heat ... User 111 is still going on PTFE fix 3 years ago . 'O' Ring pressure seals.. where the 'O' ring is not in a circumferential or spot face groove ..I'd use as method of last resort .. I'd use a plastic cut from say a washing up liquid bottle first . 0.02c Nick
I have been using O rings for fuel caps since i got into stoves about 3 years ago. No problems at all.
Hi, my concern over the use of "O-rings" in classic brass stoves is that the joints were never designed for using an "O-ring" but rather a flat ring-type "rubber" washer. Typically the surface face of the filler spout would have a groove to help seat the washer and aid sealing. Using O-rings might be a quick fix but the joint was never designed for this type of gasket and there is a real possibility of the O-ring being displaced and allowing fuel leakage. Best Regards, Kerophile
Hi, Kerophile, and All, George, I agree with you, 100%. Whilst others have had good success using O-rings for many stove needs, I've never trusted them to safely do what needs be done. With a flat Nitrile washer, you can crank down to your heart's content, with no problems at all. However, if you over crank on an O-ring, it very well may distort, and then you're in for some leaking, absolutely. That happened to me, just once, but it was enough to convince me not to use O-rings for other than needs where they were the original equipment. Better safe than sorry, as far as I'm concerned. Making flat washers from Nitrile sheet is quick, easy, and foolproof. That's enough for me. Take care, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc
Good point on the flat washer vs. "O" ring issue. The flat washer seems like the best to me just based on looking at how the cap of a 71 (and a 8, 80, 99, or 123) is constructed. When the seller says "You can also wrap a very thin layer of Teflon plumber's tape around the pin, inside the valve assembly, where fuel commonly leaks out (and catches fire)," I think he's referring to the spindle not the SRV, yes? I would think plumber's tape would be all right on the spindle although I haven't tried it. Taping over the SRV does NOT sound like a good idea. HJ
Hi Jim, read the sellers words again..I think he is referring to the safety valve built into the filler cap of later Pr.71s: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/11210 Best Regards, Kerophile.
Hi, George, so are you thinking that he's referring to part 5851? I was thinking he was referring to part 4061. The exact meaning of "pin" isn't clear (to me anyway). I'll pop him a note. HJ
In an emergency I have used ptfe tape for many things it wasnt designed for and it worked. Even so in those situations Ive only considered it a temporary repair. Also as there is no picture of the O ring he might be talking about a flat O ring. We know these as washers. Strange he only offers it for one stove when its interchangeable to several.
Agreed. I think his stove knowledge may be limited. He's figured out a washer or "O" ring that will work for his stove, he's selling them for that stove without realizing that they'll work for a number of stoves. I know they'll work for an 8, 71, 80, 99, and 123. Will it work on a 199? I would think it would. Will they work on others? I should check a couple of stoves I have at home... With regard to the Teflon tape, I think the first issue to resolve is whether or not he's referring to applying it to the SRV in the cap or to the regulating spindle. If he's talking about applying Teflon tape to the SRV, that sounds like a poor idea to me. HJ
I asked the seller: He replied: Well, I don't suppose we'll know what he meant with his Teflon tape remarks now will we? His answer doesn't exactly inspire me in terms of stove knowledge. But at least we know he's talking about a rounded "O" ring not a flat washer. I'd much rather have the flat washer. HJ
That all depends on the 71 the guy is talking about. My '53 has a smaller cap than the 8R and others: My vote is flat washer for these types. I've had O-rings get sucked into the tank before. It's a precarious seal, if anything. I've had success with some of my stoves with O-rings but I don't do that anymore. I'd rather put a crappy, non-fuel resistant rubber washer than a high-end O-ring for temporary measures - until I can really fix it. sam
Interesting. Didn't know some of the older ones had a different sized lid although it doesn't surprise me. HJ
Hi Jim, you are probably correct, and he is referring to the spindle of the fuel valve rather than any part of the pressure-rlease safety valve. Both Sam and yourself are quite correct in recognising the hazard posed by using O-rings inappropriatly. Best Regards, Kerophile.
