Only way to see visually is when the stove is lighted and mix soap and water apply on tank cap and on the safety hole on top of the tank, if bubbles form then that's the leak. Try also the base where the burner attaches to the tank. Ron
ok, please don't be insulted, but, did you do a preheat priming on the stove as HJ has instructed? If not, fill the priming cup underneath the burner valve (the depression that the valve sits in) and light it when it's just about done burning out. Alcohol will burn for 30 to 45 seconds to a minute if you filled it to overflowing. If it doesn't start working then, yes, tank not sealing. Cap is not sealing or, safety release in the cap is not holding pressure, the valve is not on the tank tight enough or other air seal problem, like maybe the valve packing or something. sam
If you've primed, and also can't find a leak then to add to Sam's list if you've replaced the wick there's a possiblility you've stuffed too much or too little in there. When replacing the wick you need to apply the Goldilocks principle - not too little, not too much, but just right! Cheers, Graham.
Thanks guys, I'll check those areas and see what I find. Yes, I did pre-heat with meths. I know that I could tighten the valve into the tank some more but I don't think I could make a full revolution and get back to the "1" on the 123. Is that an issue? I bought brand new pump caps but I am not using a pump for pressure. My rationale for that was that the safety pip is more easily serviced in the pump caps and it was only a dollar more than a standard cap. I re-used the original wicks, which appeared to be in perfect condition, and I placed them into the tubes exactly like they were originally. I will persevere!!!!!! Lonnie
Hey Lonnie, rotating the burner so the spindle will be on top of the no. 1 is not a big issue as long as the spindle itself will be at the square window when you attach the windshield so you can insert the key. I do not really follow these rule as the threads on the tank and burner differ ever so slightly so you do not have to force it to align otherwise you might just damage the thread. Ron
OK, the soap & water test revealed a leak where the valve screws into the tank. I tightened the valve to the next window...still leaks. I will tighten further. I wish I had a reference as to how tight these should be before you damage the threads. I'm leary!
I'm having some success. By golly I was able to tighten the valve a full revolution from where I originally started! Now I guess I have that reference point I was talking about. I'm hearing the putt, putt, putt sound. I have a blue flame with orange tips. I'm thinking that is old fuel?? I'll freshen that up and try again.
Hey Baja, Is teflon tape ok to use? Will it be adversely affected by the fuel in the tank or the alcohol/flame during the pre-heat? I don't think it's an issue anymore with the 123R I'm working on but I may try it on my #99. I made my first youtube video of this thing burning and I will post it asap. Lonnie
MTCamper, your best solution is to buy plumbers graphite tape/thread instead of teflon. No, teflon will not affect the gas or clog it but with the heat it will melt. Since the plumbers tape is sort of twisted, just untwist it and take a 2 inch long strip and wrap it around the burner thread before screwing it on. Its quite tricky since the tape sometimes come off so you do have to wrap it well. Once you have screwed on the burner it will just slide and you do not have to over tighten the screw. The graphite acts as a sealant and lubricant so you will not have difficulty removing the burner if you need to service it. At least your getting there. Ron
I was just down at my local hardware store looking for the graphite tape...no luck, however, I did find a product called, yellow gas line ptfe thread seal tape. It says on the package that it is "for use on threaded joints of metal pipe handling gasoline, petroleum oils, propane, butane, naptha, benzene, kerosene, natural gas. Tolerates -450 F to +500 F." It comes in a roll just like teflon tape but it is yellow. Has anybody used this stuff? Lonnie
I used it when I replaced my water heater, I didn't realize it was that heat resistant! Should work ok!
OK guys, the video is ready and hopefully the link will work. Check this out and see what ya think. [media=youtube]2vl4ZQlhXfc[/media] Sorry it gets blurry a couple of times, my camera was freaking out.
I have used the yellow gas tape. It works well. The threads are tapered if I remember correctly so it should only take a wrap or two to do the job. Edit watching the video now. is the burner plate on 100%? Jeff
Hi MTCamper, looking at your flame spreader, it seems to be properly attached and the correct height so am thinking that the hole or aperture of the jet is enlarged or the pressure build up is way too fast. Its white tips if am watching the video correctly so seems to be good to me so I would not worry too much. Ron
Hi MT Camper. You have made a great job of fettling your 123R, and I think you are almost there....but the flame is fuel-rich and that suggests an over-size or worn aperture on the jet. I would suggest that you obtain and fit a new jet. Best Regards, Kerophile.
Thanks guys! I will change out the jet and give it another go. I used the yellow tape (worked great), assembled and fired up my #99 yesterdaytoo. It burns very well and I noticed that the flame on it is much more compact than the flame on the 123. A strong flame but more controlled. I really liked it and I suspect that is how the 123 should be. Hopefully the jet change will work. Now about the #99. The spindle only turns about 1/4 revolution counterclockwise before the needle breaches the hole in the jet, and the needle does not protrude as far out of the jet as the 123 does. Are these conditions normal? Lonnie
