Jets for No 1 and 5 stoves are rather expensive here and there is only one supplier in Melbourne that I know of. On the other hand, jets for gas lamps can be had for $1.50 tp $2 (60p to 80p equivalent) but have bores 0.1mm up to about 0.17mm. I finally tried the obvious and redrilled an 'E' jet (0.1mm) with a Number 80 drill, using a drilled and taped brass pipe plug to hold it. Seems to work pretty well, the pre-drilling guides the bit I guess. At 0.16mm and above the jets also work well in Tilley lamps, but that's another story...
Hi Murray, Glad to see that someone else is also interested in jet sizes! Earlier this year I posted a question about jet sizes but the responses, although useful, didn't tell me the sizes of jet for the various generic stove types/sizes. My idea was to be able to resize jets when worn so that they may be used on the 'next size up the ladder'. Would you be prepared to share the info that you have? Colin.
Delighted to share information, but so far don't know much. I got interested in jets because I have an old MSR multi-fuel pre-XGK with unobtainable replacement jets. My efforts so far are confined to refurbishing a standard jet by siver soldering and redrilling, and drilling out a couple of gas jets to kerosene size. The right size for kerosene jets would be useful to know accurately. I think the jets I buy are quite variable in size - the optimum must be as big as possible while still burning blue to maximize heat output. I need a set of standard wires, I guess, to measure with. I have a reasonable vernier which I can sometimes read the same twice, as well as far too many stoves. I'll post any results I get. It would be interesting to know the 111C alcohol jet diameter...
Murray you are on to a long and tedious job. you not only have to find the original sizes to dill the jets out to you then have to get the size dill you want, seal the hole up, then drill it. I don't think there is a lot of different size holes. I don't have a list of the hole sizes, if I did you would be welcome to it. One thought here you may contact Niel McCrea, he has a list on lights, so he may just have a list that will cover the stoves as well.
Thanks to a fellow collector I have some copies of original blueprints for jets but I haven't had time to look at them in detail yet - maybe some clues there. If so I will post back.
Murray Or one tapered wire, such as a watchmaker's smoothing broach. You stick a slice of cork on it, then insert it as far as it will go, then measure the diameter at the point of entry. I suppose things like sewing needles could be used, as they have a fairly smooth taper.
Being a newbie I don't want to speak out of turn but here goes. I have 2 prickers that I keep aside. 1 smaller than the other. If a stove is not burning correctly i.e. yellow flame, I remove the nipple and carefully check the hole size. If the big pricker fits I simply find a nipple with a smaller hole and try that. It normally works. It's a bit obvious but I hope it helps. Henry
I suppose I paid the price for taking the 96 away without giving it a thorough test at home. I thought it was burning a little rich but hadn't realised how bad until one evening I discovered it simmering quite nicely with a sickly yellow flame and the bottom of the pan covered in thick black oily soot, experience can be a cruel mistress. |imgRemoved| So I included the correct prickers in the next B-C order and when they duly arrived and I tried one the term stick in a bucket sprang to mind. Brazing/soldering seems to be the favorite choice in these circumstance judging by previous threads, and having done as much searching on previous postings for the correct hole size for the 96, including the old forum, it appears it should be 0.25mm would this be correct? I don't really have the ideal kit for this at home so I discussed the problem with my Father, a model engineer, who in the past has tried making scale working steam injectors for locomotives. So on impulse he went and bought the drills, ?5 for a pack of 10 and has now succesfully drilled a 0.25mm hole in a piece of brass using the lathe at 650 rpm, I think thats top whack for the old Myford. He overcame the problem of holding the drill by first drilling a size 80 hole in a piece of brass rod and once the hole was full of solder running it in the lathe with the solder softened and putting the drill into the hole by hand. Voila I now have to send him the 96 vapouriser, but does anyone know of any pitfalls when attempting to braze the tube, eg heat sinking the base and should the gauze be removed. I therefore have some sympathy with this thread as hole dimensions tend to be hidden in non obvious places eg Bryan's valuable info on my earlier post about the RM picnic. Old hole post Also in the picture which will please Ian is my old Epigas (now Coleman) alpine stove which I have a bit of a soft spot for as it's served faithfully for a number of years. Also in the picture sat on the 96 is the fibre simmer ring I took, extremely light and worked very well, this info is also linked to previous threads below and in the first one is a clearer picture of the ring at home. Previous post 1 Previous post 2 Apologies for being a bit off subject with that last bit Simes
Hi Simes - I've not done any repairs to the extent that you are attempting but I can confirm that the jet size is 0.25mm with a + tolerance of 0.005 & a - tolerance of 0. The top 0.5mm of the jet hole is flared as per the image.
