I managed to secure a Hurlock stove recently (haven't recieved it yet) and will want to repaint it. I assume regular spray paint will be okay for the fount and mounting bars for the pot support? Also, how would I prevent paint from going in the filler cap and burner holes or the pump tube, and is it okay to paint on the outer thread?
Hi, I think you'll be OK for the fount. The mounting bars, should you want to paint them, will probably need heatproof. In terms of stopping paint getting into orifices just cut some corks down to size. However, leave a suitable time period between finishing the wine and starting the spraying if you want to achieve a smooth paint job Cheers, Graham.
If I don't paint them, they will rust, as there's not much paint left. I assume i'll be better off getting heatproof for the whole thing then? Is there a need to cover the threads, or just the holes? I had thought newspaper stuffed in would be suitable for the holes but are corks a better option? Another question; what is the best (read: easiest) way to remove the flaked off old 1940's paint that still resides on the fount?
Hi have a look at my post "A pleasure to fettle" its the same stove, i hand painted it. If you think its okay i will tell you how i did it
On my one of these the font gets too hot to touch so you need a heat tolerant paint. Suggest engine enamel
If a particular area is not to be painted but is awkward to mask with tape then simply apply grease to the area. The paint will not stick to the grease and can be easily wiped off.
That's a good idea there with the grease, will probably use that on the threaded bits. Anyone know a quick way of removing the flaky old paint?
If it is just the loose flaky stuff you want to take off use a brass wire brush, the fine ones for suede shoes are good. A chemical paint stripper such as Nitromors will remove all of the paint but if you are going to re-paint then you need to ensure all of the Nitromors is removed and the surface properly prepared for the new paint. It will soon let you know if you have not removed it by lifting the new paint. Take care and good luck.
The only wire brushes I have are of the thick sharp variety, should I not use these? There are some areas of paint that are thicker such as on the pump tube nut (though the sides are carved up, the top is thickly coated in paint) what is the best way to remove nitromors or other paint stripper from the metal to allow repainting?
Depends on when you get it what the metal is. The earlier tanks were brass, the later ones were steel when brass became more scarce and supplies were mainly directed towards munitions production during WWII. The point is that brass is a relatively soft alloy. Use anything on it harder than itself and you'll just end up with a very scratched tank. In terms of nitromors or whichever you use, the instructions on the packaging will tell you what you need to do for painting preparation. It maybe that you need to use more than one application if paint is of varying thickness. Cheers, Graham.
Ok, I went with the wire brush method, and after a lot of elbow grease have pretty much removed all the paint I managed to get most of the paint from the bottom, but i couldn't get the wire brush into the corners at all, and using a screwdriver just scratched the metal. There seems to be some kind of coating under the paint on the bottom too, and what looks like a small soldered repair on the lower left. Any ideas on removing the remaining paint?
Try a scotchbrite pad, or if the missus is not looking pinch one of her scouring pads with sponge on one side and the plastic scotchbrite bit on the other, also fine wire wool would be an option for corners, you do not want to scratch it using heavy wire wool,as when you paint it, if you have not removed all the scratches you will be able to see em.
I found some emery cloth that cleared off the remains of the paint, but painting the stove did not go too well as the brush decided to come to bits during the second coat. So, I have bought some paint stripper and some new brushes...
