Hey everyone, just come back from a couple weeks away. I performed the second paint job on the Hurlock in the days before leaving, giving it two whole weeks to dry. Here it is, looking very smart. Unfortunately, the paint doesn't seem to have dried at all past the 'soft-dry' stage, and running a nail along it peeled off a fair bit. I seem to be rather unlucky with these things, and I find it immensely frustrating that i'm unable to get it painted properly. Could it be bad paint? I don't know but i'm more prepared to assume bad painting. Are there any painting experts on here who might point me in the right direction, or better anyone who might be able to assist with this particular project as it is driving me up the wall
Did you completely degrease the stove? Also something else to look at, when you applied the paint, did you do several thin layers or just "pile it on" Those are the two things I look at when my paint jobs go south
Spray or brush? If brush i think a way to thick layer, crust hardens and the middle stays soft for a looong time. Chuck it in the oven when SWMBO is out for a good length of time. 6-8hrs at 50-60deg C followed by a day or two for the paint to fully harden. If spray i think shitty priming/degreasing before painting.
It's brushed. The oven idea is an interesting one, i'll see if I can try that after painting over where it peeled off. Will it have any negative consequences on food cooked afterwards? failing that, do I have any other options? I really don't want to start from scratch for a second time
Brushed will take way longer to harden through, because as i said the skin will harden and slow waporisation of the remaning solvent down. The only way to speed that proces up again is heat. A hairdryer and a large cardboard box will acomplish the same as an oven, and just might save you a big bunch of flowers in excuse for oven smell!!!
I think Henrik probably has it - lack of degreasing and/or priming. If it were me, I'd strip it using Nitromors or similar - I usually use the water-soluble stuff and make sure the item is thoroughly clean and dry afterwards. Then a very light 'hone' with fine production paper, cleanse using an air-gun followed by panel wipe and then a tack rag - amazing how much cr*p these remove after you thought you had the item perfectly clean. Then I prime and spray paint using nearest match Halfrauds car body rattle-cans or sometimes I have them mixed up to the correct colour by a local motor factor. A bit of a procedure but if a job's worth doing, it's worth doing well; small things make perfection, but perfection's no small thing, etc., etc. You get the idea... BTW, I've two of these - one appears to have been stripped by a previous owner and the other is a sort of 'Army Green/Khaki' type colour with a decal over, so I presume that's the original finish.
Metal preparation is important. If oil residue of any type is present, the paint will not adhere to metal. Some metal likewise will require a primer in which to bond paint to the metal on the assumption that the metal has been cleaned. Ron
I already had to strip it down with nitromors-type stripper after the first paint job went awry... I'm afraid I haven't the time or patience to undertake a long, complicated painting job. I'd leave it with the bare metal but I bought the stove with the intention of using it for camping trips so it needs to be resistant to rust or i'll end up with a wrecked tank. The paint i'm using is brush-on paint for brake callipers as it is heatproof so it won't come off when the stove is in use. Is this a bad choice? the only heatproof spray paint i could find was black furnace paint and I rather wanted a blue hurlock if it was going to be painted.
Cardboard box and hair dryer, mate! It'll cure the paint it 12-18 hrs + 24hrs of hardening time. Try then tell.
nitromors the paint off, then paint all the steel to be painted with phosphoric acid this will kill any rust and degrease the stove wash with plain water and dry then use Link i haven't used this paint as i wanted satin black so used their woodstove paint but it does look very tidy and has not been affected by the heat from spilt meths nor from heat from the base of the burner and the only rust is on the base where the paint has scratched off from use the case was from one of these 111's but i switched innards for a 111t
You mean to say I need to leave a hairdryer running into a cardboard box for 18 hours?! I'll try this idea out if the oven idea proves unsuccessful. I'd really rather not use the nitromors again if I can help it, it's a real messy job and takes ages to get all the paint out of the corners. Don't know where i'll get the phosphoric acid either If only i'd found a brass Hurlock
phosphoric acid can be bought on ebay as ph down i use nutriculture but growth technology would be as good or any good hydroponic shop will have it i wiki'd it a while back and it's good as a stainless steel cleaner too. removes rust stains from ss in minutes apparently it can also be used for getting rid of limescale so i know how to clean my burco boiler now and it will eat dried/hardened/calcified urine from toilet bowls oh and they reckon it makes a good aluminium cleaner too yup if only but you'd be polishing it forever instead of painting it once [not that i ever did]
It has a built in thermostat, and gives good air agitation = faster drying/curing. Start with less and see how it goes, but here more is better. BTW. run the dryer on lowest setting and make sure that air can escape the box at least at the same rate it enters.
I have been informed by the powers that be that there's no chance in hell I can leave a hairdryer running for that long because of how much power it uses. Are you certain it will take 18 hours to sufficiently cure the paint? I'm starting to think i'll be bringing out the nitromors again after all Once? it must be nearly 3 times now and that's not counting coats.
Chuck in a 60-100W lightbulb and seal of the box to hold the heat in. A temp around 55-60 degC over night for starters. PS. Remember to let the paint cure/harden for at least a day before you handle it and test for perfection.
Might that not set the box alight? sounds a little hazardous to me... I have a few plastic boxes I could adapt to it maybe
As mentioned above, oven works well to cure a paint job. Wait until your wife is already mad at you before you do it.
or use this as an excuse to treat yourself to a coleman oven and tell her "i didn't want to upset you by using your oven so i bought this dear" you never know you might even get away with it
If everything else fails, and you find yourself doomed to strip the old paint and start from scratch, you can try the Hammerite paint. I used Hammerite "direct to rust" exterior paint on the case of my 8R - it took 2 days to set hard in room temperature, and was wear and scuff resistant. Unfortunately I cannot take a photo of it, as my stove was stolen (together with my car). Hammerite also have a special heat resistant Barbecue paint. I did not try it. http://www.hammerite.co.uk/products/exterior.html Yonadav
