Link This oven method works with old metal radio cabinets quite well to get the wrinkled paint finish from past era. It may help harden your paint as long as there is no foreign residue (oil, etc.). Just ignore the wrinkling steps if you want a smooth look. There are spray can paints that give a hammered finish.
Hi PW - It might be worthwhile checking the instructions in detail on the paint container. When I've used that sort of paint previously the instructions state that after application and initial drying the job has to be baked for the paint to properly cure and achieve hardness and temperature resistance. Your still tacky paint sounds exactly like high temp resistant paint that hasn't gone through the baking/curing process. If it is this sort of paint this step is not optional - it'll never just harden on it's own however long you leave it. It's a chemical process that requires heat. You might want to research this on the paint manufacturers web site before deciding on the method of baking. In a lot of these paints the main by product of the process is CO2 (as well as just concentrated fumes of paint drying) so shouldn't be lastingly noxious in an oven. However, CO2 is heavier than air so take this into consideration and probably avoid using in a gas oven as you may run the risk of extinguishing the flames - gas ovens might be fitted with some sort of safety feature the turns off the gas if the flame goes out but better safe than sorry. This is more conjecture on my part as we're not on gas where I live so maybe someone else can chip in as to whether this concern is valid. Cheers, Graham.
Ok, seeing as I could not negotiate use of the oven I went ahead and built a 100w light bulb 'easy bake' oven from a large plastic container and a lot of tinfoil. The Hurlock is currently cooking... fingers crossed.
Just a note regarding the use of "pH Down" as a source of phosphoric acid: be sure to read the label as there are numerous branded products named "pH Down", which use different ingredients for acidity. Rendezvous pH Down = sodium bisulfate Pondcare pH Down = sulfuric acid General Hydroponics pH Down = phosphoric acid, citric acid and mono ammonium phosphate you get the idea. Most hardware store rust removers are 10-30% phosphoric acid, and most advise further dilution before use. Advanced Nutrients pH Down is 85% phosphoric acid, I would handle with great care and dilute (add acid to water, not the other way round) before using. Good luck, PressureWolf.
hi there growth technology ph down 81% orthophosphoric acid Link Nutriculture is 81% phosphoric acid too,i can't find a link but mine came with a gt205 as for safety if you don't/can't treat it with respect then you shouldn't use it, but that can be said of stoves full of hot petrol quote from wiki Rust removal Phosphoric acid may be used as a "rust converter", by direct application to rusted iron, steel tools, or surfaces. The phosphoric acid converts reddish-brown iron(III) oxide (rust) to black ferric phosphate, FePO4. "Rust converter" is sometimes a greenish liquid suitable for dipping (in the same sort of acid bath as is used for pickling metal), but it is more often formulated as a gel, commonly called naval jelly. It is sometimes sold under other names, such as "rust remover" or "rust killer". As a thick gel, it may be applied to sloping, vertical, or even overhead surfaces. After treatment, the black ferric-phosphate coating can be scrubbed off, leaving a fresh metal surface. Multiple applications of phosphoric acid may be required to remove all rust. The black phosphate coating can also be left in place, where it will provide moderate further corrosion resistance. (Such protection is also provided by the superficially similar Parkerizing and blued electrochemical conversion coating processes.) all i can add is i use it and it works
Thanks for the good info parramethrol. You've given me a new source of phosphoric acid for probably less money than the hardware store variety. It looks like spa pH Down usually uses sodium bisulfate, pond/aquarium products use a variety of strong acids, and hydroponics products lean toward phosphoric. Here in California there are lots of hydroponics shops to support the pot industry, so I should have no trouble finding the right stuff when my current supply runs out.
hi Techie the hydro shops will normally [note normally] stock the phosphoric acid type ones as "flowering plants" like plenty of phosphorous, but check the label before buying it is strong but nowhere near as bad as being puked on by the fly
The light bulb oven seems to have done the trick, after 48 hours and another 24 back on the shelf the paint is nice and hard I did however manage to scratch off a little bit when putting one of the legs in but that should patch up ok. I'm a little dissatisfied with a couple bits, such as the side of the tank where some dust or sand managed to get under the paint leaving a few specks sticking up, but it's good enough to stop the thing rusting. Besides, the rest of the stove looks tatty enough to match my paintwork Maybe in a few months i'll give it another paint job and try and tidy up the other bits like the pan ring and windshield but for now I'm going to enjoy taking it camping photos coming soon in the stove forum!
Good idea Henrik, but I think it will need to be pretty huge to keep people far enough away now - I spoke too soon Everything seemed fine until I ran the stove up today. As soon as the tank became hot, the paint at the top of it started coming off. Heatproof my behind! As imaginable i'm a little frustrated. Currently on the look out for a brass hurlock so I can put this one on the back burner for the time being...
PressueWolf, send me the stove and i'll put a proper heatproof paint on it. Mind i'll have to test the job on a couple of overnight camping trips but that should be no bother to you. lance
That sounds great, but I just noticed you are in the USA, would that not be a nightmare in shipping? (I'm based in Oxfordshire, UK)
PW easy on now! Strip it down to bare metal, clean and apply: http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/s/SIRZINALUS/ Or similar Zink based spray. Two layers, it'll fill and mask a lot of pits! And it is an magnificent primer that will be a great adherent for the layers of colour paint. Then some decent spray paint with a colour of your choice. Remember either respray within the hour or wait the full 24hrs before applying more paint. From last coat to fully hardened is @14 days. If you make bloopers/runners wait the 24 hrs and wetsand lightly, then clean and repaint. Easy peasy
Thinking about just using black furnace spray paint. That would at least be heatproof and fairly straightforward to apply.
Why does it have to be heatproof? I dont think the tank will get much above 80-85degC unless it fireballs and then paint quality is one of your least worries
I was advised to use heatproof paint in a previous thread, as the top part of the stove tank/body gets very hot in operation, Otherwise i'd have bought cheap metal paint. Anyhow, I bought a can of 500 degree matt black for barbecue tops so i'll give that a try once I have removed the blue stuff.
I think I am really not cut out for painting. In fact I'll go as far as to say i'm really bad at it and I just don't have the patience to repaint/strip/repaint... on and on because it never works right. Right now I wish someone would just take this stove off me and I wouldnt have to look at it again...
So what do you want to trade? Or are you willing to pay shipping to and from DK. Either way i'm willing to help you out!
I think i may well take you up on your offer Henrik, depending on shipping costs and whether I can get the paint right in the next few days. The black BBQ paint seems to weaken under high temp, not as much as the blue stuff but enough that paint scratched off one of the arms and the tops of them were scratched off where the trivet attaches. Was I supposed to prime with another paint? I really don't have the patience or time to devote so much effort to painting one stove. I dont get why you cant just get a simple no nonsense high temp paint from a DIY shop.
