Okay, so I have a pair of Op111s that I rescued when my old high school was swapping their wilderness program over to MSR Whisperlites, and a pair of Sv123s --one from my father, one that I honestly have no clue how or when it appeared on my stove shelf, and a pair of MSR WLs --I bought one, one came with my wife-- that are what I mostly use in the back country, and an Op45 that will soon be plugged into my forthcoming Sea-swing evolution --provided said evolution actually works as it's supposed to, which is not guaranteed, as this is my first shot at designing such an esoteric piece of equipment. So why does the same friend who gave me the parts from which I rebuilt that Op45 now say "hey, you like old brass stoves," and hand me a all-but-new Op111B he found at a flea market? Do I have "bring me your old brass stoves, that I may cherish them" written on my forehead? So I need help. I can accept that. More than that, can anyone help me ID this newest critter? Parramethtrol's Field Guide to the 111B was very handy (thank you, Bill!), but I didn't see anything quite like this. Defining features seem to be: Embossed tin Roarer with two posts and a hole in the plate (for meths?) Slotted SRV --what's with that? A much thinner profile control knob than my 111s The tank is still partially full of Coleman fuel, so that's a good hint for what it likes to burn. Though I did try and run a Sv123 on kero once, before I knew better, so I shouldn't assume anything... From the looks of the pot supports, I don't think this critter has been fired more than once. Is this a multi-fuel? Does it run any differently than a 111? Any further information on this newest addition would be appreciated. I can quit any time. Really.
That's an early 111B B= Gasoline, the 2 tube (actually 1 tube + prime tube) won't vaporise kero, you need a 4 tube burner for that... Replace the NRV pip, no matter what it looks like, I guarentee It's hard as a rock! So is the tank lid seal! Very nice one, I wish I had friends like that
Thanks BajaBum. I hadn't ever seen an SRV lid like that, so I figured I'd better get expert advice. Yes, I'd already counted on replacing the NRV pip, though I haven't howked it out yet, and the tank lid gasket registers a little harder than corundum on the Mohs scale. Fuel: just gasoline, or Coleman fuel too? I'm allergic to fireballs. Alex
Rock hard gasket(s) removal. I must have read it here on CCS and I'd like to pass this on to Alex and others as it works like a charm: HEAT IT UP! Yup, take the cap in a pair of pliers and heat up the rubber gasket over an open flame, then pry out the (smelly) rubber with a small screwdriver or similar. Either it folds and breaks in chunks, or just crumbles, but out it goes without undue force or slipping of sharp tools. Even for somebody who is in 'denial' a handy tip, methinks
In order to be clear, dspearsy - you have a name? - you should tell WHY , and to WHAT limits my suggested method is not(?) preferable when rejuvenating a rubber seal on a cap with a 'safety' valve. The suggested sharp awl poses more of a threat in the hands of somebody who does not know the difference between bringing heat to a gasket and/or turning it into bubbling burning mess. My guess is you are concerned about damage to that valve when heat is applied. Yes? If the rubber gasket of a cap with a 'safety release' needs replacement, chances are the seal of the release valve is due as well. Not that a vast majority has been bothering too much of that the last 70-80 years those 'safety valves' have been introduced, but I digress. So could you expand on your thoughts here? Mike Meijer
IdahoStoveGuy: *Very* pretty, and considerably higher level fettling than I'm currently up to. I think I recall following the reconstruction and being impressed then. Danta: Thank you. I figured white gas would be fine (and preferable) if it ran on MoGas, but thought I ought to make sure. Gasket removal... DutchMike: Thank you for the tip on heating it. However, given that I'm still rather a novice with a torch, I think I will either go at it carefully with a dental pick, cold, or, as a compromise, maybe toss it in a pot of boiling water. If I point a torch at it, sure as eggs I'll booger up the SRV completely --not bad idea, just simple operator error. Your point is taken, though, and appreciated; it's pretty darn hard, and I'd hate to mess up the brass of the cap (or my hand) prodding at it with a steel awl. DspearsY2K: Thank you for your caution. Where are you in Puget Sound? That said, can anyone tell me about this style of SRV? I know the pentagonal "Allen" socket jobs fairly well, and that they are a pain in the tail to overhaul and then reset to the correct release pressure (I have several that need overhaul, but lack a pressure testing jig)(yes, I've seen some earlier posts on it and need to get off my butt and build one). What's the story with these slotted jobs, though? I know that if the cap gasket and the NRV pip are hard, I can hardly expect the SRV pip to be otherwise. I may be in denial about my stove collecting, but not about the sketchy-ness of old SRVs. Thank you, one and all. Alex
