Primus 1.S.or - 1911, stamped 'A'. Does the S stand for Senior? I read through a few posts and could not find it's meaning. I'm assuming 'J' stands for Junior. Also, what does the 'or' mean in the name. Any enlightenment would be appreciated.... I left the stove in as-received condition. Will clean it up later after I figure out what it is... I thought this was just a No.1 when I bought it on the bay. It turns out it was a 1.S.or. I was pleased to find that it was 99 years old too. What is unusual is the pressure release valve on the filler cap. Some catalogs show stoves with filler caps like this one, instead of the valve on the side of the filler tube. This stove is missing the legs, just in case you didn't notice. Here's the filler tube. No pressure release tube on the side of it... The cap looks like it would fit a 96. Must have used the same parts. It appears to be dated 'A' or 1911, but I'm not exactly sure. The stamp on the bottom is fading. I couldn't find another stove or anything in the catalog that looked exactly like this stove. Filler cap. I know, it's quite dirty. I'll get to that. The shot is showing the tiny vent just outside the threads where the valve screw goes in. Pump cup, still there. I'll try oiling it, but I'm not confident it will work, it's probably 99 years old. Burner doesn't look too worn. The lettering look to be in really good shape. Anybody know what languages are included there. I'm guessing Russian on one of them. Pump cap, no handle. I've got a spare I'll put on. Made in Sweden. The engraving of the stove is in pretty good shape.
Hi Jim, You appear to have most of an original Primus No.1S.or from 1911. I believe that the S does indeed stand for Senior, and was a slightly cheaper version of the Standard Primus range, for example the gauge of the brass sheet used for the tank was around 25% thinner. I can't remember what the .or stands for, if I ever knew..... The air-release screw is an early form and relies on a leather washer to make a seal. It would be great if you could add a set of legs and get it going for its centenary. Check out this earlier post on Primus No.1S and No.5S stoves: https://classiccampstoves.com/posts/64954 Best Regards, Kerophile.
The .or stands for the last two letters in Senior and Junior. That's just the way senior and junior was abbreviated; S.or and J.or. The burner text is at least in Cyrillic, and it says of course 'Primus'. Russia was a huge export market, so probably Russian, but I guess it would look the same in many of the Cyrillic alphabet using countries. The other is hard to tell, but Arabic would be a good guess? By the way, you can see a J: or using the same lid with simplified regulating screw (as it's called in the catalogues) a bit further down in this gallery. At least in those older days, the 'simplified regulating screw' was one of the things that distinguished the J.or's and S.or's from the regular stoves.
I don't think Sr or Jr is how abbreviations usually looked like here back then. Perhaps nowadays. It was more common to insert a colon to show that some letters inbetween had been excluded. S:r and J:r would have been the most correct in my opinion. Or Sen. and Jun. with the dots since it's shortened words.
Hi idahostoveguy a fantastic old stove there next year it will officially become a antique reaching a 100 years old rather than a collectable or vintage. I like the basic pressure release screw as kero mentioned relied on a seal (leather)rather than the more modern conical seal and usually the filler cap washer was made i believe from cork as a few old petrol blowlamps i had from around the 1920's 30's were made of cork thanks for sharing it with us a real gem
This stove has hit the century mark is now 100 years old as far as the date code of 'A' is concerned. It has been an international effort to get this stove back to burning condition. I have to thank brassnipplekey for the legs from the UK. They fit perfectly, but I wasn't skilled enough to put them on. So, I have to thank lance from the US for using his expertise in soldering the legs on. It passed the 'pull test' and looks great. Pump leather is from sefaudi who is in Turkey. Perfect leathers every time. Pump handle is from a guy in Florida who would like to remain anonymous. Burner ring from a fettler in Florida. I received some nitrile material from a guy I bought a Svea 123 with pump on the yabe. I never knew who that was, but I made the NRV pip and the fuel cap gasket as replacements. Used a nitrile O-ring from my own supply that I found at Harbor Freight for the pressure release screw. Found some exhaust gasket material from the auto parts store and made a heat resistant gasket for the burner to riser tube connection. It's supposed to be good to 2000F and is made of compressed carbon fiber or something like that. Although it is very rigid material, it was easy to cut and worked perfectly. It conformed to the shape of the connection and provided a perfect seal. I even test burned with a blow torch/lamp and it was unaffected. Had to remove the pump to fix the pip in the NRV. Even after removing the pump, the NRV would not come out so, I replaced the pip and left it. My next step would have been to remove the bottom of the pump tube to get it, but I'll leave it as an exercise for the next time I have to replace the pip. Replaced the jet with one purchased out of the UK. The last two pictures show the stove simmering with no yellow tips or flames. As you can see it works great! sam
International RESULT 8) Keep the old uns burning . Nice one Sam . I like the kettle... 2 off same resident on my woodburner. Nick
Hi Sam. I dont know how I missed this but wow, you (and your helpers) did a fantastic job restoring this old gal! Hope all is well with you. ATB
