Hi all! When removing the vaporizing tube to check the wick, will I be able to screw it back on without any graphite putty/packing? (also, is graphite putty/packing the same stuff that is called graphite silicone, it comes in a small tube in the automotive section?) Also, my tank cap washer/o-ring is pretty beat up, somewhat flexible, but definitely not in perfect condition. I can't find any "nitrile" rubber at my local stores, is it ok if I find a car's gas line tube with the right diameter and snip out a piece to use as a washer? It would be approximately the right size. Will I hurt anything by dunking the whole stove into a vat of vinegar for about 30 mins and scrub off the gunk? The stove runs pretty good indoors, but when I take it outside it has trouble staying lit, due to the colder weather and perhaps wind. I've already ordered a repair kit from packstoves.com but I don't know if it comes with an extra o-ring. Thanks When the bug bites, it bites hard doesn't it?
You can get cap seals here: http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trksid=m570&_nkw=svea+123+seal 30 minutes in vinegar might be too long, you risk turning the whole stove pink as the acid removes the zinc from the brass. The parts kit does not include the cap seal according to their website: http://packstoves.net/cart/index.ph..._id=50&zenid=3c5d11489ad0d2953b34fedcde7279f9 Yes, it does bite hard but you have made a good start with a 123.
There are are more experienced folks than I who likely will chime in, but here are some things that I have learned. You should not need anything to seal up the vaporizing tube when you put it back on. However, be sure to note the alignment of the tube (use the valve stem as a reference) so you do not screw it on too tightly. Replace the o-ring. It is cheap insurance. You do need to use a material that is fuel resistant. Some folks have had good luck with pre-made o-rings, me, not so much. There are folks on ebay that sell nitrile seals that will fit your stove. If the fuel hose that you have found is the correct size, then it should work. If you get the stove back together and it cannot build pressure to sustain a flame, then it is likely that your cap seal is not good. Personally, I would not put the stove in vinegar for 30 minutes. I have found that 10 minutes is a maximum that gets the job done pretty well. I tend to rely on elbow grease for the majority of my cleaning. Good luck with the fettle. Post some pictures when it's done. Regards, Steve
Hi, 1. The thread between the tank and burner is tapered, and should seal without any packing. Graphite paste can be used, but is not a must. I don't know about the graphite silicone. 2. You can buy tank cap washers off eBay. Most hardware stores carry assorted nitrile O-rings, which are an acceptable (but not ideal) substitute. Any "rubber" that is fuel-proof should be OK. 3. I normally soak my brass stoves in citric acid (sold as "lemon salt" in food stores), which is better than vinegar. After the citric acid, you can polish with Brasso. 4. The low performance of the stove outdoors may suggest a clogged wick. If it is a 123R, check the cleaning needle for cleanliness and proper adjustment. A windshield will help in windy situations, but leave some space for air circulation or the tank will get too hot. Enjoy, Yonadav
Hi If you cannot find any nitrile rubber, look for some silicon, it has far superior heat and oil resistence than nitrile.
Hey Guys, Thanks for the tips, I will be sure to look for lemon salt at the supermarket, I don't know if I've ever seen it, but worth a try. If not, I will just do the vinegar thing but only for 10 minutes. There's quite a selection of silicone bakewear, pot grippers and all sorts of other things that I could purchase and cut out a washer, I still have the original so I could use that as my guide. I've got some cotton mop threads to use as a wick once I get the vaporizer tube off, it's stubborn though.
want citric acid, but can't find some in the grocery store? pick up 4 packets of unsweetened Kool-Aid lemonaide! and as a bonus, pour a packet into your dishwasher detergent bin to clean your dishwasher and make it smell great! (alternatively, there's a product called 'Lemishine,' which is just for dishwashers and is citric acid too)
I have soaked cuttings of silicon trivet mats in fuel for weeks (kero/white spirits). They came out exactly the same as they went in. They are only slightly softer than nitrile. I have read a few comments on this site that silicon is not suitable but I think it is worth a try, however the 123 uses fairly volatile fuel so you need to be very careful is experimenting. The link to the ebay seals made from viton rubber, that David posted above, is a much better option. They will last for years. Dan
Be careful of silicone rubber around gasoline. Some silicones will swell up and get squishy and NOT seal. Been there done that, not funny. There are fuel resistant silicone rubbers but I forget their naming. So TRY or ask before you use them around gasoline. You can get a lifetime supply of nitrile O rings from Harbor Freight for cheap or many automotive shops and hardware stores will have them individually. I have used O rings for cap gaskets on my 8R and many Colemans and never had an issue. My 8R has a Harbor Freight O ring since about 1997? Good Luck, Jim Henderson
Most auto supply stores carry a variety of nitrile O-rings and washers. Kinda pricey but not a show stopper.
Thanks, I'll check out my local auto shop for some to use in the mean time. I'll end up ordering online so I can a little supply of them. I've got my spanner but the vaporizer tube is definitely stuck, I'm going to try wd40 to see if that loosens up the threads, anybody else have any ideas on how I can loosen it up a little and take it apart? Perhaps I'll get one of those oil changing wrenches also. Thanks, Tam. PS picked up some koolaid today, didn't have lemonade, had to settle for lemon-lime, hah.
Try using a proper penetrant rather than wd40. Proper penetrants have a lot better "seeping" qualities than wd40. (quite similar to kerosene)
An oil filter wrench may damage the tank, or break the vaporizer tube. My method: clamp the vaporizer tube in a (padded) vise, with the stove upside down. Then hold the tank by hand and turn it, using care not to apply excessive force. If still stuck, after making sure that there is no fuel residue in the tank, gently heat the top of the tank (the area near the vaporizer tube, that is now pointing down) with a propane torch, and try again. Careful now - the tank is hot - hold it with a rag. Yonadav
Look for silicon in sheet form not bakeware, as its usually made from poor quality base compound. You may need to speak to a Gasket maker or maybe an autoshop may have some gaskets suitable or large enough to cut one out of. I have a sheet of 60 hrd silicon rubber with far superior oil and heat resistance to nitrile. But I have the advantage of working for a rubber manufacturing company. I will when i get time make some washers for my 123's and report back.
Hey all, I went and picked up a nylon oil filter wrench to see if that would work, doesn't damage the stove, because it's simply encased in nylon, but still can't get the tube unstuck. Also picked up graphite lubricant paste (which I assume is the putty) and a bottle of penetrating oil that I will let soak for a few hours and see if it comes out then. Also, I picked up two o-rings, one for the middle of the tank cap and the other for the threads and they fit great, no idea if it'll create a seal yet or not, not until I can replace the wick. Man, this is fun
Alright, got the vaporizer tube unstuck from the tank. Installed a new wick and fired her up. Works not bad, no worse than before except that there was a little shot of flame a couple times coming out of the adjustment nozzle. I think I'm just going to clean it up and put a little of that graphite lubricant in there and see if that stops it. Soon I'll have the roar!
