Hello all. I'm new to the forum and have just bought a new Svea. I have a couple of problems with it. First, I have not run it on proper coleman fuel, but on zippo lighter fluid. I was too excited and couldn't wait to try it! I primed it with alcohol and it ran ok, but it chugged like crazy and the flame was not as powerful as I expected, with quite a bit of yellow at the tips. It burnt like this for a good ten minutes and even when it got really hot didn't improve. It took well over 8 mins to boil 500ml of water. Would this be because of the fuel I used? Secondly, the stove will not turn off when the regulator is turned off. I have to turn it fully to the right and bung the jet up with the cleaning needle to stop it. I have read of someone having a similar problem, so stripped the stove so that I could clean it out as I think a piece of swarf may be stopping the valve from closing properly. The little graphite ring came out with bits flaking off everywhere. It is still round but the outside has bits come away. Can I reuse this piece or do I need to buy a replacement? I have to say, I'm a little dissapointed. I know the fuel may not be the most suitable so I'm not complaining about the running. But, I bought this stove as I believed it would be bullet proof. Is it me?
Welcome Jamie. You said you bought the stove NEW as in NEW so it should function properly using the correct fuel - Coleman Fuel readily available at Walmart in Pint or Gallon. The factory assembler may not have properly seated the cleaning needle (it so often happens) hence the needle point of the spindle (control) does not seat properly to seal the fuel coming out. If you notice fuel coming out of the jet even at shut off then that may be the culprit. The graphite washer in the spindle is brittle, it was made that way so be gentle with it. You can go get some plumbers graphite tape from the hardware store and wrap it around the spindle just before the retaining nut and tighten to where the spindle turns without much force (with the key). Sometimes it takes a bit of experimenting on adjusting the cleaning needle. For starters, remove the jet and turning the spindle counter clockwise, you will see the cleaning needle come up, turn a bit more ccw until the cleaning needle comes off (be sure to see the orientation of the tooth of the cleaning needle). Then close the spindle all the way clockwise. Seat the cleaning needle inside and gently turn ccw, count 4 clicks (or see the cleaning needle jump 4X), then turn the knob clockwise until you see the needle go down and return the jet. Some require 3 clicks (as we term it) sometimes 4 or 5 to get the spindle to seat and close the fuel hole. Once you get it right, the 123R will serve you well and make sure you use clean strained coleman fuel. If you get that fixed and you still are getting yellow flames, adjusting the flame spreader to seat lower usually less than a millimeter (or even higher) will adjust the fuel/air to burn blue. Take it one step at a time. Ron
These stoves are not the rockets that some of the modern stove are and for which exaggerated boil times are sometimes claimed. 8 minutes is not too shabby, you will find that preheating effectiveness can be variable (air temp, wind, etc) and sometime it gets off to a slower start than other times. Get some Coleman fuel, use a wind screen, and quit watching your watch.
Zippo lighter fluid is a blend with a flash point of >35F/2C; see the MSDS. The Svea was designed for white gasoline. Gasoline has a flash point of -48F/-18C, Coleman fuel is similar. Zippo fluid is closer to kerosene than it is to gasoline. I'm surprised it burned as well as it did.
Hi, Jamie, Welcome to CCS! Please do not take this personally, but I am always flabbergasted at the folks who buy a stove, use the WRONG fuel, then are disappointed that their stove doesn't run properly!! First, is your Svea 123R actually new, or just new to you? Second, where do you live? Some Countries do not have Coleman fuel, and suitable alternatives must be found, lighter fluid NOT being one of them! Third, Ron has given you a great description of how to set your cleaning needle to cure your turn-off problem. One thing to add: Optimus recommends that you keep a light, but firm downward pressure on the cleaning needle as you count the clicks. This helps to make certain the needle seats properly with the spindle teeth, and don't accidentally case a problem. That's how I have always done it, without a single problem. Last, most important: PLEASE have the patience to learn and practice the safe and proper way to use your stove!! Safety must always over-ride your desire to "go for it"!! Doing it any other way can lead to horrible damage, severe burns, and even death!! Not trying to scare you, Sir, just some good advise to a new member, from an old one who somehow survived his own sometimes stupid mistakes with stoves!! Take care, have fun, and God Bless! Every Good Widh, Doc
Coleman fuel is horribly expensive here in the UK. An excellent alternative is Aspen 4T, although whether you can get it easily where you are is another matter. http://www.aaoil.co.uk/environment-Aspen-4T-alkylate-petrol The self-pressurizing stoves like the 123 are sensitive to how volatile their fuel blend is. The tank pressure determines the fuel flow rate, which determines the burner heat output, which determines the tank pressure... There is something called 'panel wipe' which is a naphtha blend that burns well in pump pressurised stoves but reportedly does not do well in self-pressurised stove due to low volatility. Another thing to remember is to always open the tank cap for a moment to let the pressures equalise then close it again before lighting the stove. You dont want to be fighting against negative pressure caused by fuel level dropping, changes in atmospheric pressure etc. Boil times are hugely affected by external temperature, wind, pot design and other factors. I dont pay attention to manufacturers claims. In the field its all about windshielding, using a pot lid, windshielding, a litle patience and windshielding. Did I mention windshielding? A cold breeze can suck heat out of a small pot almost as fast as you put it in. Get a windshield!
Thanks to everyone for all the replies. I have emptied the stove of fuel and will reseat the needle as per your instructions (Thanks RonPH and Doc Mark). I'm in sunny Scotland and I am trying to avoid buying Coleman fuel. I have already enquired about Aspen 4t and the nearest stockist says he's out at the moment but will order more in for next week. I hope he gets some... I did not know that panel wipe was not so good in self pressurising stoves so thanks for that info, that was to be my next choice! I thought it was just naphtha. Then again, I thought zippo fuel was similar!! The stove is a brand new one. It's a lovely thing and I look forward to getting it running on proper fuel! Thanks again for your kind help everyone. I appreciate it.
Hey, Jamie, You are obviously a good man, and I assure you that, with a bit of patience, and a very small learning curve, you are going to love your new SVEA 123R! I still love all of mine, even though I got my first one around 25 years ago, or a bit earlier! All stoves have different personalities, and so we all have to learn about them, before jumping into deep waters. But, I'm guessing that you, just like the rest of us, will very soon be singing the praises of your little brass SVEA!! Still great, even after all these years, and in fact, much better, in truth, than many more "modern" stoves!! Again, welcome to CCS, and I think you will find a happy home here, with the rest of us Stove Nutter Pyros!! 8) Take care, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc
Jaime, I have a small collection of 25 stoves and the 123 is still my all-time favorite. Enjoy it, it is a real gem!
Thanks also for the warm welcome everyone I have reseated the valve now at 4 clicks. It allows the valve to shut properly(5 clicks wouldn't). Thanks
Now you just need to find some fuel and enjoy one of the all time go-to stoves. Glad we could help. Ron
perhaps a local paint supplier will have Naptha on hand? (expensive, but a quart will last a *long* time in a 123R)
Hmmm....I don't know about the 123R, but my 8R never read that part, fill it up with lighter fluid, a nice preheat with some meths, and it all but sits on the runway, waiting for takeoff clearance! Coleman fuel, lighter fluid, naptha, hell, it even honks out a decent flame on isopropanol! One of these days, I'll have to take 'er out and see how runs on 87 RON auto fuel. Murph
I always thought lighter fluid was the same as coleman fuel except for the price. Its an expensive way to buy fuel. A couple of smokers I know buy coleman fuel to refill there lighter fluid bottles. Litre coleman fuel is a dollar more than 300ml lighter fluid
Bloody right you are, geeves! But sometime you gotta dance with whoever you can find, not a hardware store in sight, so nip into the local druggist's shop, get a bottle of lighter fluid, and run like a dog! Murph
That is really disappointing quality from Optimus. I would send them an email detailing your NIB DOA experience with your 123r. http://www.optimusstoves.com/en/technical-support/customer-service/
Hi every one some very interesting points regarding lighter fluid to power a stove which has surprised me as the fuel it self is very pure and clean and will light with a single spark unlike paraffin/ kerosene,but i must confess i have used it in a optimus8r a primus71 and a optimus80 and it did seem to work just fine on those stoves with an internal wick. But about five or six years ago a spent five days in dorset visiting the great dorset steam fair and took with me a coleman duel fuel stove as i stayed in the awning as i awake yearly and i could make a coffee without disderbing the rest of the family it was filled with coleman fuel and worked fantastic it all ways lit first time but torwards the end of the week it ran out and i could not find a shop that sold coleman fuel so i bought two tins of lighter fluid to fuel it big mistake it was terible to get it to light and when it did the flame was completley yellow i even tried prewarming the generator which had no effect it still burnt terrible at the time i could not understand why as you can use colemanfuel and unleaded petrol/gasoline i thought there was a problem with the stove
Hey, Brian, I have to agree with you, 100%. Ligher fluid is NOT a good substitute for Coleman fuel. Each to his own, but I think that most of the evidence shows that this is not a good practice. As for Optimus quality control, the need to reseat the cleaning needle is not a new one, Folks. I've had that problem with SVEA 123R's, 8r's, and 99's, for many years, and I think it's just the nature of the beast. Very probably, even the folks who worked for Optimus in Sweden, didn't really give a hoot about stoves, in particular, and were just "doing their job", sometimes great, and sometimes not. The cleaning needle seating problem has been around for at least as long as the cleaning needle has been part of the design of those stoves, unfortunately. Easy fix, and not a big deal, IMHO. Take care, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc
Hi Doc it surprised me being that lighter fluid is volatile (it is easly ignited with a spark that it did not work in my coleman but was passable in the internal wick stove but i dont have manny gasoline stoves and the 71 and 80 was only fired up on lighter fluid and not coleman or white gas so i could not realy compare how well it burnt but on your sound advice and every one else is sound advice they would have burnt better infact i will buy a small quantity of coleman or panel wipe so that i could use them perfectly
Hi all, The easiest method to see the difference in Zippo lighter fluid and white spririt is to dip a finger in each and smear it on a shiny surface (not plastic). You will see that the white spirit 'dries' (evaporates) almost immediately while the Zippo fuel remains for quite some time and has a slightly oily feel while it does. I too have Zippo lighters, with one always stuck to my "don't leave camp without me", belt (along with a pouch for various equipment and goodies, a quality torch and a knife), and fill the lighter when in camp with the white spririt fuel I use for the 123. In this way I'm not carting two fuels into the hills. But. The Coleman fuel, while useable, evaporates through capillary action much faster from the otherwise closed lighter, than does Zippo lighter fluid. Not a problem for a day's hunting with the potential for an enforced stay over, but after a 3 day walk, it is touch and go whether there is any free fluid left to light. Zippo lighter fluid lasts longer as it does not evaporate quite so readily and hence, does not draw fluid so fast. I have not tried Zippo fluid in any stove so cannot comment on the merits of that. Anyway, my two penny'worth. Regards all, Rob
