2 of my 111b's have the same symptom. The pump pushes down very hard and the pump piston wants to stay out. They both pressurize well but i would like to inspect/refurbish the pump valve, I have no idea how to remove it. Any answers would help, I'll check tomorrow. Thanks
Evening, Paul, I believe your 111B's both have leaky non-return valves. You will need to buy a special wrench to remove your valves from the bottom of the pump well, or you can make your own wrench. Somewhere in the archives, you can find instructions as to how to do just that. Once you get your NRV out, you will need to hold the head secure in your wrench, and very carefully, use a pair of pliers, or something like that, to unscrew the long end, which is under the head. Once you get that off, you will note a rubber plug, under which is a spring. That plug is probably as hard as a rock, or at least it's heading in that directions. Replace that plug with either a home-made plug, made of Nitrile rubber, or buy a replacement plug from Base Camp. Or, some of the guys make them out of cork. If you can't make one for yourself, I can make one for you. Once reinstalled, everything should work just like new. If that was as clear as mud, please give me a shout, and I'll try to be more specific. Good luck, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc Mark
Thanks for the help and the thread. I will start on the fabrication soon. It sounds like if I do it right I will have a great tool for my repair kit.
Great tool! I was just able to get a correct size piece of stock and start a cut with a hacksaw. Then I used a pneumatic cut off wheel and cut down then side to side checking for fit on top of the valve. When it fit well I tapped it with a hammer 2x and it unscrewed by hand. Disassembly of the valve went well thanks to the thread provided by member Jur. The rubber is not that bad, but I find it way to tight in the valve itself. Everything is soaking and I will try a cleaning and reassembly. Maybe a bit of grit paper rolled into a tube and twirled in the valve body. Thanks By the way, is the bend in your tool what they refer to as a "tommy bar"? or is that any type of tee handle?
Hi Paul No I think it's what's called a crap wheel brace - it was left behind when my Rover went up in flames in dramatic fashion a few years ago ! It has formed the basis of a whizzo valve remover though. I know you can make them with bolts and then turn with a spanner, but there is always the chance of a slip off,and possible damage to the stove. A quick tip, is also to fit a small lead washer under the valve, it helps it seat better, and makes it much easier to remove in the future. Cheers
Controll key to the new 111,(111T and 111C) is with a tool to remove both jets from silentburners, and non-return pump valves. The key is the best argument to get a 111T or 111C
Thanks for all the ideas. I think the only reason I would go for a new stove is the cobra head is such a good one. My wife groans when a idealic morning wake-up is accompanied by my roarer head making that sweet sound. Thanks M. but I have a wrench if you mean the one that clips in the lid My first try at reproducing that litttle rubber plug caused a conflageration that ended in my safety bucket. Will try again later. Thanks all!
Good Morning, Paul, Don't worry about the "conflagration", we all have them, especially when we're trying to replace something like an errant NRV!! Keep at it, and you will succeed. Again, if you need help with your valve plug, let me know. I can either make you one, or send you a bit of Nitrile rubber, which came by way of our UK friend, Ian, and you can make your own. Magnus is talking about the combination "wrench/adjustment rod" that came with the later 111T and the new 111C stoves. This rod is actually the flame adjustment tool, and it's milled out to perform the duties of jet/NRV removal, too, plus the opposite end is a wrench for tightening the "stuffing box" nut. This wrench will NOT work for jet removal on your 111B's. However, it would work for taking out your NRV. But, as you've already made your own such wrench, you have no need of the one Magnus offered. If I may, however: I would suggest that you give serious consideration to acquiring a nice, newer vintage, 111T, or better yet, a 111C! You will LOVE these stoves, and your wive will give you that special smile, in the morning, when you fire one up and it does not disturb her slumber!!! These stoves are a joy, Paul, and you will very much enjoy adding one to your collection. I own early 111T's, later 111T's, and also one 111C, and all are outstanding stoves! Go for it, Paul, you won't regret it!! By the way, the earlier 111T did not come with the combination tool. Let me know if you want a bit of Nitrile rubber, or for me to make a gasket for you. With the proper rubber, however, it will be easy for you to make your own, just for grins. But, either way, let me know. Take care and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc Mark
No I don't Doc! I am talking about this kind of wrench - Not flame adjustment tool! This two wrench working perfect on my 3 Optimus 111! But it dosn't work so good as a flame ajustment tool. Can you help me Doc?
Magnus, Oh, sorry! Paul was talking about a tool for his 111B, and I thought you were offering the tool for the later 111T and the 111C, which does all the things necessary for service, including taking out the jet. Those don't work for removing the jet on a 111B. But, the tools you show are perfect for taking out the NRV, on any of those stoves. Sorry about the mistake! Take care, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc Mark
No No Doc! You don't need to apologize!! I was a little bit unclear about wich wrench I've. No problem at all Doc!!! Take care Doc and have great! cheers, Magnus
Nice T wrenches! Still I am very satisfied with the one I made, even proud. I do have access to very good rubber in the form of 2 inch x 1/4 inch tire plugs for fixing flats. One type is round and one type is oval. My first problem was a too tight fit that stayed open a little but the fuel didn't start up the pump tube till after i light it. Quite a show as I had some oil rags in my airtight bin that had to be dumped before I could sweep the offending stove in. I am now looking through my spring collection to try and replace the small spring under the rubber. However I could use an idea for sizing the rubber. The only thing i can think of is slow rubbing with sand paper. A depressing discovery, the major sports chain around here has stopped carrying Coleman Fuel in gallons that 3 weeks ago cost $6-99 AND IS NOW SELLING QUARTS FOR $3.99! Doc, While sitting around I did check A+H and loved that 111C. Maybe,maybe,maybe
Hey, Paul, I think you have the right idea, as to fixing your NRV. However, you must use a rubber that is impervious to all the heat to which your plug is going to be subjected. That's why I offered you the Nitrile rubber. It's great stuff, that seems to shrug off the heat and still stay soft enough to form a seal. If you PM me your full name and mailing address, I'll send you a slice of the great stuff that Brother Ian was kind enough to share with me. I've made NRV plugs with it, and also fuel cap gaskets, and it works, as they say in the UK, "a treat"!! Also, do yourself a favor, and order one of the 111C from A&H as soon as you can afford it. I seem to remember that it is going to be discontinued, or replaced with another unit, which uses a roarer burner. (Isn't that right, Lads??) In any case, get one, while you still can, because they are outstanding stoves, and you will love having one. Your Bride will love you having one, too, especially when she hears it's soft hiss, compared to the roar of the 111B, which we all know and love!! By the way, don't be weirded-out, when you receive your new 111C: the tank is made of powder-coated STEEL, instead of the brass we all love so!! But, you get used to it, and that's the way it was designed, so what the heck. When I first got mine, I was going to swap out the tank with one from a 111B. But, after using it a few times, I decided to leave it the way it is. Good luck on getting your new 111C. (Did I mention that you need to tell your Bride how quiet it is???) 8) Take care, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc Mark
