Next to be fettled is a 111 that I have had for a few years and kept putting off. But buoyed by my success with the Enders, I think its time. First of, I was wondering if anyone had done a teardown photo essay like Chef BC did for the Enders stove...I do much better with pictures Thanks in advance COD
Which variant of 111 do you have? https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/15499 Oh,and the "Search" function is your best friend! Murph
There have been some bench mark 111 restos, finding one shouldn't be too hard. The one that DDay did on a 111 Kero junker I sent him springs to mind. This would be IT here. Fine job, I wouldn't have blamed him for a second if he had just broken it up for parts.
Thanks for the link murph Definitely have a four tube model...see the first picture. The second picture is the label. Only the model designation 111 is readable, and on the left, I can make out what I believe is Kerosene, White Gasoline, and one fuel that is unreadable The third picture is just a glory shot of the stove in the beginning stages of rehab
COD, Thanks for the kudos for the Enders teardown but I have to give credit to whom is really responsible for the post you may be refering to; Presscall, put together this one and polishes one sexy stove! This post is what first piqued my interest in the Enders family of stoves. Don't think I'll stop until I have at least 30 of em. 8-[
Chef BC...sorry...definitely credit where credit is due. The fettle is coming along fine, but I'm having a little trouble with fuel leaking out the pump assembly cap when I'm pressurizing. When I take down the pump assembly, I notice that there doesn't seem to be any "o" rings, just the leather cup. Did a search, and found a few teardowns of Optimus 111's (or like pump assembly)and some seem to have a spring mine doesn't...am I missing something...Base Camp's schematic doesn't seem to show one Have the pump cup soaking in oil, will be massaging it later today...might need another Forgot to ask...is there any source for a new Optimus label for my 111T?
Hi, there is no spring on the pump shaft of a standard Op.111, although someone may have choses to add one for smoother pumping. If you have fuel leaking into the pump chamber you need to remove the NRV and replace the "pip" with a nitrile or viton replacment: https://classiccampstoves.com/posts/64230 With a gasoline fuelled stove this is vital as the NRV is all that stands between you and a major flare-up Best Regards, Kerophile.
Can't improve on Kerophile's comments. You are fortunate to have the leather pump cup, it is what was installed in the older stoves. The "rubber" O rings tend to crack and become useless over time. I have found they will often become stuck near BDC when the rubber material adheres to the inner bore of the cylinder wall. Keep a watch for the viton.
Okay, going to see if a buddy at work can make me up a NRV removal tool...shouldn't be to difficult. Sending the case out with my brother to sandblast. NOW, Will I be able to find a source for decals for the stove case or am I going to come up wanting? Thanks in Advance COD
Silicon grease, and viton oring: the oring plunger will last ALMOST like the leather one. But where the bl....y optimus engeneer got the idea of changing from leather to that piece of bl...y da...d sh...t technology? Orsoorso
So I got the NRV out with the help of a tool made by my buddy and dimensions provided by Stu ( thanks again man) I'll post pictures of my NRV tool and post them later Now I cant figure out how to get the valve body apart to inspect the pip...tried a screwdriver in the slotted end and the removal tool on the other but it didn't budge...wasn't putting a lot of pressure on it...didn't want to damage it... any advice would be appreciated COD
https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/170 Many CCS members believe that the slot was never intended for a screwdriver, and it is easy to destroy the thin-wall body of the carrier by tearing it when using such a device. If you grip the top of the body carefully, near the threaded portion, using rubber gripped in the jaws of pliers of a pipe-grip, you should be able to remove the top using your NRV extractor tool. Hope this helps, Best Regards, Kerophile.
I apply penetrating oil to the threaded area. Wait a respectful period. Grip thr NRV with a three-jaw chuck from a drill press and gently apply torque. Thanks Chickenthief!
Kerophile thanks for the tip. got the NRV apart and the pip is hard like a small pebble. will work on getting a new one. as promised, my NRV tool the end was drilled out to 5/16th to allow the use anything handy as the T handle
So I ordered some pips from Ross...they arrived today Thanks again for the quick turnaround. spent a few minutes putting in the new pip, filled the tank and pumped her up....truly a thing of beauty. (will post flame shots when I finish painting the case. What paint best matches the Optimus blue? COD
https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/14240 https://classiccampstoves.com/posts/6458 https://classiccampstoves.com/posts/18793
