If nothing else, here's what it looks like... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=62117&item=5139665142&rd=1
Good morning everyone. I'm feeling good today \ . Using the locking forceps i put quite a pull on the wire and it wouldn't budge. I did not want to pull any harder in case the wire broke (I suspected it may have "welded to the tube) . So last night I put the riser tube upside down in a wee vice and filled the tube with WD40. This morning I pushed in a fine screwdriver and it did not go as far as it should (about 0.5" short of the adjuster). I started gently scraping with the tip of the screwdriver and got some black gunk. Then continued with more pressure - I do not believe the amount of solid "carbon" that came out of that wee tube . Anyway eventually the wire came free and it was the wick wire - 20swg brass with a loop on the end. At present It's still soaking in WD40 to get the residue out. Does anyone know something better than WD40 for this or have any other suggestions? I hope the adjuster is not clogged. Well folks, I'm beginning to think I might win with this one and I thank you all for the great help. I'm looking forward to sourcing cotton twine and making a new wick This is Jim signing of from Central Scotland, feeling great and looking forward to the rest of today .
Lobey, find yourself some carburetor cleaner...the kind in a can with a parts tray that lowers into the soup. That with some compressed air and a small brass brush should get your stove clean enough to eat off of (well, kinda...). Barring a brush fine enough, I've flattened the end of a piece of copper wire and made a scraper that could be altered as you go to get into the little nooks and crannies. Take your time and it will come out spotless.
This maybe a daft question, but how difficult should it be to unscrew the riser tube? I've given it a bit of 'umpty' and I get the distinct impression that it will break the tube before the threaded joint. Have the threads ever been soldered? Or am I being over cautious. I'd hate to end up with a shiney tank and abit of brass tube with a jagged edge Any suggestions? Steve
Steve, I was worried too. It's VERY tight. I think it's a tapered thread. Anyway I held the tank on it's side on a piece of carpet on the floor and searched for a very close fitting spanner. I got the spanner angle about 45degrees and gave it enough "umpty" to remove it. I think the secret is the fit of the spanner. If there had been any rounding of the nut, I would have filed it for a better fit or used mole grips. I hope you manage it without any damage. Oh, just remembered, I heated the riser a bit prior to removing. Jim
I've had pretty good result with soaking it in the carburetor cleaner, in order to get rid of the gunk. I've also found that it helps performance, to put the wick all the into the total length of the tube. If short, if run the risk of pulsating.
Re tight fitting riser It sounds like the risers may have been altered in later years. My Optimus 80 has a nut at the base of the riser. This seems to be the same with the later 71's from what's been said. My 71 (supposedly 1930's) has a threaded base directly into the tank with no nut. Only place to hold onto is the riserand valve itself. Think I may just leave well alone and put up with a fairly weak (compared to the 80) flame. I got the distinct impression that the tube would break before the threads gave way. I'll just have to wait a little longer for my mug of tea Steve
Made a new wick today, (see post on "wick materials thread). So after cleaning the tube and inserting the new wick I've got the boil time for 1pt down to just over 6 minutes. I'm chuffed , thank you all for your advice and suggestions. I'll get on to the tin soon! Jim
Hi! I just wanted to show you what I found in my recently bought Primus 71L! I wanted to make sure everything was in order, so I dismounted the stove, and intended to have a look at the status of the wick... When I removed the vapourizing pipe, half of the wick stayed in the tank! The other half I got in my hand when I was going to feel if it was stuck or not.. However, the pipe were all stuffed with something, so I took a piece of iron wire and tried to clean it out... The result is in the picture here, the whole pipe was full of charred wick! I finally reached the twisted piece of wire... I wonder how anyone can actually run a stove into that state!?! I have just read the thread about wick materials, and will see if I can find something useful! Regards!
It's actually fairly easy. Simply light the stove and forget it. When it runs out of fuel, the wick chars and there you have it. It's why I never, ever light one of my self pressurizing petrol stoves without topping up the tank. Ever. Gerry
Yes jorgen I would say that is the right order to have all that black Carbon. It is better on the paper than in your stove tube. You know now how the generator tubes on Kerosene lights carbon up. Regards Albert
OK, didn't know that if the tank dries out, the wick gets charred in the tube... Hmm.. I now have to find some cotton string or yarn to use as wick... I have read the wick materials threads and it seems as if that should be just OK to use... It probably is the same in my old Primus 803 gasoline blowtorch... I'll have a look at that one as well.. Thank you all for your hints and comments! I have printed the relevant threads and will use those as reference when fettling!! Enjoy your day! Regards /J?rgen
