I bought a "new to me" SVEA 123 last week and had to wait for a few parts, flame spreader and pot supports. Once I got them, I lit the fire, but it wouldn't burn very well, particularly it had a very yellow, dirty flame. I researched on here and there were multiple causes and fixes. My initial idea was that the flame spreader wasn't adjusted properly. I moved it up and down all evening. No change in the flame. My next idea was to tear it completely down; clean the vaporizer and replace the wick, if needed. I disassembled the stove, checked the wick, which looked fine to me. I then checked the vaporizer tube and didn't see ANY corrosion or carbon buildup. I pulled the valve out and checked that, the seal looked great, so I put it back. I pulled the pin below the jet out and it looked very good. I put it back in following a recommendation from on of the forums here of 4 clicks. cleaned the jet with the pricker and then wiped it off and reinstalled it...bell and flame spreader. Denatured alcohol and whoosh. huge fire ball. put the flames out, trimmed eyebrows and went back to the drawing board...uh forums. Went through adjusting the needle between 2 and 7 clicks. Nothing changed, other than the size of the fireball. Now am I pleading for assistance. Thank you in advance Cheers, Woodsy
BernieDawg, The link won't let me see the videos. I'm not sure what they would show me, but some sort of explanation may help. Woodsy
That link was posted from a smartphone, click the link which reads "desktop" and you'll be able to watch it. It's a demonstration of how to use a svea. I'm working off the assumption you have a leak. How quick does it go fireball? If it's immediate, most likely the leak is either from the tank to vaporizer joint or fill cap, if it's a bit delayed probably the valve's not closing. Try it without the tip cleaner if that's the case.
I was able to see the video, just took a bit of ingenuity. It goes into a fireball after I preheat and try to "start" the stove. It wasn't leaking before I disassembled and now it does. The fuel is coming from the jet and it almost appears to be spitting at times. Little splatters of burning fuel come from the bell. I hope this adds more light to the situation. Woodsy
I think the problem with lighting the stove is user error. If you are unable to connect to the excellent YouTube video made by CCS's HikinJim, then do a Google on Adventures In Stoving (his blog) and watch it there. It will show you the proper way to light the stove. I do not believe that these written discourses will be of much help compared to a video that you need to watch woodsy. There is nothing understandable in your description of the problem, so please make the effort to view the video. Alternatively, please post photos of your problem "in action". The Svea 123 is an extremely basic and simple device. Help us understand what the problem could be with some photos, or better yet, a YouTube video of you attempting to light the stove so we can determine the issues. Your spitting fuel makes no sense unless you are failing to preheat properly. Please show pics or video.
So its a 123R and not a 123 if its got the cleaning needle. If so, then the needle is not properly set. Some experimentation is required (on setting the needle). Some require 4 clicks, some less. Ron
Are you leaving the fuel valve open during the preheat? This can cause excessive amounts of liquid fuel to come out before it starts vaporising. I open the valve to make sure isn't stuck then close it again, add alcohol, light, open the valve a little when the alcohol is nearly gone, let in run at a low setting for a few moments then let rip. I used to preheat with the valve open because the idea of heating up a sealed canister of gasoline gave me the heeby-jeebies, but that always caused liquid fuel to come out of the jet and join the party.
a jet thats not seated correctly could do this as it will leak round the thread. Doesnt fireball till he try's to turn on after preheating. It stays sealed till turned on. He used the stove before stripping. I think that discounts user error.
I am assuming that your 'fireball' is forming at the jet/bell? When you pre-heat the stove, is the control valve fully turned off? - ie..all the way to the right? If not, then that's your problem. It needs to be turned off until just before alcohol burns out. If the valve is turned all the way to the right during pre-heat and you still get a leak from the jet then the valve is not closing properly. Two causes: 1. The pointy end of the spindle is worn and is not forming a perfect seal. If it looks uneven, try smoothing it on some very fine emery paper. 2. The cleaning needle is not set right, preventing the spindle from forming a seal. This can be easily checked by removing the cleaning needle and operating the stove without it (the needle is unnecessary for the stove to operate, it's just to clean the jet). If the stove operates OK without the needle then you know the needle is your problem. To check for leaks, empty the tank, close the valve and immerse the stove in hot water. This will cause the air in the tank to heat up, expand and rise in pressure. Any bubbles will highlight any leaks. Regards, Terry
I will see if I can get a video of the stove. And as some of you are very eager to point out, it may be operator error. I know very little, if fact nothing, about these stoves. BernieDawg, it must be nice to be an expert. If you happen to read the post right above yours, I was able to watch the video, along with other videos. I am lighting it correctly...or I should say I am lighting it the way it shows me in the video, and the instruction sheet. listed here https://classiccampstoves.com/fusion/gallery/1/1209989637-svea123.jpg I was under the impression that the reason for the forum was to ask questions about problems...and help if needed. If I knew everything I needed to know, I wouldn't be asking for help! As I read in another forum in another section of the site. If you can't ADD to the post, take it to the lounge. Again, Thanks for all the help, for those trying to help Woodsy
Hi Woodsy I'm not an expert! Yikes! Who said that? Not I. But, I have repaired many of these stove for folks who, like yourself, have trouble with them. Fully sixty percent of the folks who send me stoves for "repair" have nothing wrong with the stove at all! Instead, the user believes they know what they are doing and we (the client and I) discover that they were not following the directions. Often, the first reaction for many people is to assume that there must be something "wrong" with the stove, rather than their technique. There are lots of folks out there with egos who have difficulty accepting that the learning of a new skill can be difficult for them. Not everyone is naturally skilled at a thing. It's just the way people are. I think the reason for the forum is to provide you with some terrific research materials so you can learn to solve these issues yourself. If, after working through those materials, you still have questions... then, by all means ask. With regard to the video, our posts crossed. No biggie. it happens on these lists. Chill out. I am trying to help you, but you need to help us help you. You need to provide some detailed pictures of the stove. It seems your stove should be working fine unless: 1. you reassembled it wrong 2. you are lighting it wrong 3. it is defective These are generally not defective, so... As you say... "I know very little, if fact nothing, about these stoves." Why should we assume it's the stove, then? Anyway, if you'd like me to repair your stove or check it over I'll offer to do so for absolutely free. In fact, since you seem to have your hair in a muss about it, I'll even offer to cover your shipping both ways for free. Just drop me a PT and we can make the arrangements. I'm returning another client stove today, so I have an open window to get your stove running if we can get after it soon.
I'm wondering if the wick is installed correctly? It should act as a fuel flow restrictor. If it's not been replced correctly, or fallen out and into the tank after your inspection, and the tank is overfilled, then the fireball being experienced might well be the result. Just a suggestion without the pictures of the wick and it's current installation. I can appreciate your frustration with some of the replies. If you are new to the site there's so much information to find in so many places it can be impossible to find through casual browsing. Unfortunely the search function is not the best, especially if you might be confused, as a newbie, as to what search items might be approapriate to use in the first place! The SVEA 123R is a well respected stove and collectively we should be able to get it working for you. Cheers, Graham.
BernieDawg, I know I may be lighting it incorrectly. I have done everything I know of to verify that I am lighting it correctly. followed directions, followed advice and watched video's. As far as I can tell, I am doing it correctly. I will post a video, once I can figure out how to so you and everyone else can see what is going on. As for the stove being defective, I don't believe it is. Now...reassembly being done incorrectly. I am pretty certain it is done incorrectly. I am trying to find a video or instruction on how to verify one way or another. I have spent hours and hours on this site reading and rereading posts trying to find anything that demonstrates "how" to tear a stove down, but to little avail. The closest I have come is the exploded views of the stoves. This actually shows me how they come apart, but offers little advice on reassembly or whether it is done correctly. All I can figure is that it isn't reassembled correctly and that is where I am. Please forgive my brusque reply early and I don't need you to pay for shipping or to "fix" my stove. I want to learn to do it so I can work on my other 5 stoves that I have recently purchased. As far as I know, I only have one working properly, but I am sure I will goob that one up soon. Cheers, Woodsy
Hang in there, I'm down to one non-working stove now, just needs the holes in the bottom of the tank fixed. Sometimes it pays to let things lie for a bit before hitting them again. Got three back to running this weekend, needed the work bench space for a lantern that refuses to work right/long. Duane
Working on it as we speak... er.. type. Be patient, please. Videos do take some time. Stay tuned. And, as HD has suggested... it can help to walk away and do something else for a bit just to let things gel a bit in the ol' noggin'. (Helps *me* anyway.)
Hi Woodsy, Please try to get us some photos, otherwise we are "shooting blind". Nevertheless, I will try to take you from the start with some clear and simple instructions. I am not sure I remember everything that you posted above, so please forgive me if I repeat things you have already done. 1. Make sure you are using coleman fuel and nothing else. 2. Get the fuel tank filled to about 1/3 to 1/2 full, NOT MORE. 3. Make sure you have a good seal on the tank filler cap. 4. Until you get the stove running properly, REMOVE THE CLEANING NEEDLE. Install the jet without the needle underneath. Install the burner bell and flame plate. Do not install the windshield. You should get the stove running perfectly before you get to re-install the needle. 5. With the valve CLOSED, hold the tank firmly in both hands so that your hands warm the tank slightly. After 1 - 2 minutes, make sure that no fuel is seeping out, either from the jet or around it. If you see fuel coming out, you have a valve problem. 6. Now open the valve 1/4 turn for a few seconds. Fuel should start seeping out from the jet. Close the valve again before too much fuel spills out. 7. Make sure you have the means for shutting the flame in case the stove fireballs. Best is a metal bucket or large tin can that you can cap the stove with. The stove should be far from anything flammable. 8. Ignite the fuel that spilled into the recess on top of the tank. (The valve is still closed.) 9. Just before this little fuel burns out, open the valve slowly. A yellow flare-up at this stage is OK - it should last no more than 30 seconds. 10. At this stage you should be getting a roaring flame in the burner - mostly blue, but yellow tips are OK. The flame should stabilize in a minute or two. 11. Remove the key from the valve before it gets too hot, or you will burn your fingertips - it gets hot very fast. Let the stove burn for some 5 - 10 minutes. 12. Now you can put the key on again and shut the valve. The flame should die instantly. If it does not, you can pour cold water on the tank (not the burner), to kill the pressure. Please let us know how it went. Enjoy! Yonadav
I just tried this with my 123 (not R). Here it goes: The flimsy windshield is just a cut-up soda can I keep on my workbench. Yonadav
