Nick hard grade silver solder melts around 745-780 degrees celcius, as soon as it melts and flows around the joint take away the heat. Here is a link to a ebay seller i purchased two strips of medius silver solder from. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silver-So...s_JewelleryMaking_GL&var=&hash=item8712f4443f The above link is the seller i purchased the silver solder from a couple of weeks ago,i hope i have been helpfull so far
Hi Nick, Maybe this will give you an idea. Bernie dawg brazing a gallery back on for me. [media=youtube]3jlzcu2V-MM[/media]
Rick that is a great help I ended up watching several of Bernie's well put together vids and found them all very useful indeed the little tips and tricks are good to get without learning the hard way! Thanks. I am going to find it hard hanging on for materials to arrive so that I can get started. Nick
A very good video of BernieDawg silbrazing the burner gallery. Notice at the beginning of the video nmp how he slowly heated the burner to dry out the flux slowly,and how the flux changed to a clear glass like hue before the solder flowed. When you have finnished the silbrazing Nickyou will have to remove the hard like glass flux residue. the usual procedure is to use a pickle bath,but i have found it can easily be removed, by soaking it in hot citric bath, or in a strong detergent and hot water. When your silver solder arrives and flux have a practice on a few scrap peices of metal
Hi Nick, glad it helped. I know what you mean, sort of like waiting to open your Christmas presents..
What sort of temperature silbraze should I go for getting a bit confused looking at Ebay. Also the flux? Brians link has easy medium and hard.But its flat strips rather than wire. Hard being 745-778degC
I would go for hard as the burner will get very hot,the flux is boraxit come in a white powder and is mixed with water to form a paste. the silver solder can come in wire strips and rods,all depending on how much you want or how it is made. i have bought the wire version before it is the first time i have bought it in strips but still works the same. if you buy the silver solder on ebay like the link i have given you as that seller sells flux as well and you could ask for the certain flux for the solder
Well, the brazing hearth has turned up from Ebay Unfortunately missing the 2 side wall bricks however upon contacting the seller he has very quickly arranged to send out another complete set of bricks,great service and very quick response, so if anyone else chooses the same seller [follow the link in an earlier post in this thread]you can be confident of good service! I have still not ordered the silver solder I will try and do this today my problem is matching the flux to the solder. Another 110 ends on ebay today at about 1pm it will be interesting to see what it goes for.This does not have an original burner its fitted with a roarer[base camp say that that is correct for a 110 not sure about that!?] Nick
I am engaged in war with the burner on the 110 at the moment, successfully silver soldered the new ring on the burner and as I was turning the burner onto the tank as a trial run and the riser tube just disintegrated it seems to be made almost entirely of carbon!! So now I am attempting to make a new riser from one off an old No5. see thread in main section later today. Update:- not much luck I think this is fast getting beyond repair!!!Bu**er!!!!!!!!
If you've really hit the buffers (and a stinker of a project to cut your silbrazing teeth on) I'll have a go at fixing it if you like, Nick. I'll admit I've been there before ... rust holding top and bottom bits together ... just Marcovp's burner repair John
I have got the riser attached to the burner ok but I just cannot get the riser to connect to the nut the other end I am going to get a new MAP cylinder today as I was down to dregs on the old one,I think that that is the problem not enough heat in the right place,but I also have a sneaking suspicion that the nut is now slightly oval and will not screw onto the other part of the riser tube below the spirit cup and I do not want to damage that as well. I am trying to do this joint here with no means of locating one with other so its all swimming about as I heat it not ideal,I really need to turn a recess into the nut to locate the tube before I solder it in,the only other way is to grind that recess with a Dremel. John this may be heading your way if I have no joy over the next couple of days!! Thanks so much for the offer. Some more high tech tools may be the answer a vice, files and a Dremel are sometimes not enough!!
Hi nmp, If you've not tried it already, try wiring the pieces together with steel wire before starting the braze. That should stop the work pieces moving around during the process. The only thing to look out for is that the wire doesn't come into contact with the joint itself otherwise you'll have a nice piece of wire brazed there as well. Sometimes this can be difficult to achieve on odd shaped pieces and a brace spanning the piece at 90 degrees out of the way of the joint can serve to keep the wire away from the joint area (i.e. string the wire around the brace). Additionally as the brazing rod, to a certain extent, also works as a filler the two faces of the joint don't have to be completely flat. Some gentle keying of both faces will also help keep things in place once under tension with the wire. In fact that helps the brazing process generally. Cheers, Graham.
Good idea Graham, all these things are slowly dawning on me! So I am learning a lot even if the end result is not pretty or even usable.I will just keep an eye out for a burner on a wrecked stove.Long shot I know but you never know. I am going to have a go at grinding a recess to take the burner riser the silbraze it. Cheers Nick
Hi Nick I have lost this thread somewhere along the line. If you were to use all three original components, nut, tube and burner basket and done all the prep, alignment is straight forward. Threaded bar, for arguments sake, sticks out 4 inches at either end of the components. Slide to the middle of the threaded bar, attach a washer and a nut, screw down until centrally located on bar. Align components and make components secure. Then turn upside down to silbraze. Bar is long enough to attach in a vice, to work on without disturbing either end.
Hi Ian, That's a great tip. Just need to be skillful enough not to end up with a threaded bar brazed to the inside of the riser tube. I'd recommend assembling for the braze and then applying flux on the outside edges of the faces to be brazed before carefully tightening up ready for brazing so that no fluz gets onto the threaded rod. Use of a rod with quite a bit smaller diameter than the inside of the riser tube would be the trick to maintain a good airgap that the flux can't traverse. I'd also use compression washers at each end to take up the slack and maintain tension in case the bar expands during the braze. Cheers, Graham.
I had thought of that one Ian but I have managed it by grinding a recess into the nut and then brazing> I have fired her up but had a leak in one joint TWICE!! So have redone some bits which has made things a little bit scruffy than in these photos until I get the files etc out again. Flame shots to follow.
