Flare up and problems with my M1950

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by messkit, Feb 6, 2013.

  1. davidcolter

    Offline
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2010
    Messages:
    1,045
    It does indeed (the rubber parts are usually dead but you might get a pump leather and a generator in there)

    My Fiesta had what looked like shot-blasting beads rattling in the tank, I had to shake them out.
     
  2. snwcmpr

    snwcmpr SotM Winner Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2011
    Messages:
    22,060
    Location:
    North Carolina
    Too quick on the reply for me to edit, so here is a link to answer my question.
    Link

    Ken in NC
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 1, 2015
  3. messkit

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2013
    Messages:
    14
    You mean the gaskets are interchangeable? :shock:

    I had a feeling the pump leather and the NRV were the same size, but the filler cap gasket and fuel needle check gasket being the same surprises me a little. Also, on the fuel needle itself, there was a small rubber o-ring that I recall replacing on my M1950.

    I probably will try one more attempt at a fettle on this stove.

    1360175130-IMG_0037.JPG
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 26, 2015
  4. davidcolter

    Offline
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2010
    Messages:
    1,045
    The control valve of the M-1942 is a simple on-off brass on brass job. No LIGHT position, no fancy fuel-air mixing in the pickup tube. You get neat fuel or nothing. The only rubber parts are the filler gasket and the NRV pip.

    I did need to trim off the protruding face of my M-1950 NRV pip then flip it around to use the untrimmed face to get a good seal.
     
  5. davidcolter

    Offline
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2010
    Messages:
    1,045
    The only other things I would suggest are:

    Put the windshield/pot support back on the M-1950, this will keep the preheat flame around the generator and bell. Without it, the slightest breath of wind will send the flame sideways and suck all the heat out of the bell and generator.

    Preheat it with gasoline, six seconds worth from the jet. I am convinced gasoline burns hotter than alcohol in this application, and coming from the jet means the surface of the bell and generator are wetted with fuel and get heated directly.
     
  6. messkit

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2013
    Messages:
    14
    Alright. I think I managed to fix the problem (somewhat). I swapped out the air and fuel tube (I remembered that I have a complete spare valve assembly). Oddly enough, the manual shows a gasket larger than the fuel needle head in the diagram, yet my gasket kit did not contain one of these. The only gasket here is the o-ring on the head of the needle itself:
    1360179285-IMG_0039.JPG


    Here is the stove with alcohol burning in the spirit cup: 1360179307-IMG_0043.JPG

    Next, I put the knob indicator to 'light' until only a steady "Bic lighter" flame was present. Then to full "on":
    1360179329-IMG_0052.JPG

    No fireball, and the stove was burning blue inside the bell (which was wide open this time). There were orange tips. 1360179343-IMG_0056.JPG

    This is the stove after the final pumps. It settled finally on a nice steady output. I could not get rid of all of the orange, and flame is blue inside the bell. How does it look? To me, its still doesn't seem like its operating at full efficiency. My primus 96, for example, will burn pure blue.

    I have no idea what was wrong with the other fuel tube :-s I'm not complaining at this point. I would like to hear opinions on whether this is the most I can expect from the Fiesta.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 26, 2015
  7. davidcolter

    Offline
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2010
    Messages:
    1,045
    That looks absolutely fine. The slight colour in the flame will be from a trace of something in the fuel and will probably disappear after a couple of tankfuls. Well done, your persistence has paid off!
     
  8. orsoorso

    orsoorso Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2011
    Messages:
    579
    Plese, tell me anyone that knows how to simmer the 1242.
    The only and one way I know is to reduce the pressure in the tank, as if I try to simmer by the fuel valve, the stove eider die or, even opening very slowly, it blows full power.
    I remeber a post about polishing the valve needle, but I did not really understood the process.

    Orsoorso
     
  9. davidcolter

    Offline
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2010
    Messages:
    1,045
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 2, 2015
  10. orsoorso

    orsoorso Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2011
    Messages:
    579
    Than you, I'll go for a try polishing the "needle", just in case the graphite packing will damage, I think I can use graphite foil and grphiter paste.

    Orsoorso
     
  11. Rick b

    Offline
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2008
    Messages:
    1,612
    Location:
    Boise
    Orsoorso said "The only and one way I know is to reduce the pressure in the tank"...

    Hi Orsoorso. I'm sure you know this, but Please dont open the fuel cap (if this is what you mean)if the stove is hot, you could create a fire ball from the vapor's in the tank.
    ATB, Rick
     
  12. messkit

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2013
    Messages:
    14
    I wanted to thank everyone who gave input. My thoughts now are that I will keep this stove. If I could do it over again I would have bought a 60's Coleman brand or Rogers, or an M1942. However, for boiling rice and cooking spam, my Fiesta should do fine. At some point I plan to do a cooking test with the Swedish mess kit as a means to simmer. The Swedish cook pot nested in the proprietary windscreen elevates the pot by about 3 - 4 inches. Placing the pot and windscreen on top of the M1950 pot supports makes for a very top-heavy set-up, one that would tip over easily to be certain, but I think it is doable in the field. I will try to remember to take pictures if anyone is interested.
     
  13. Murph

    Murph United States Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    May 14, 2010
    Messages:
    2,584
    Location:
    Milwaukee WI, USA
    messkit, I use duplex head 8-penny nails to hold down the stove, the duplex head makes it easy to pull the nails out of the ground what it's time to break camp.

    Murph
     
  14. Viscara

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2011
    Messages:
    734
    Location:
    Originally Silicon Valley now in Netherlands.
    Hate to sound stupid here but why did you tear it apart completely if it was old new stock? I purchased one of them this way as well when I was in the military dirt cheap. It worked fine. I see no were in your first post that you tried to fire it up when you first got it? if not why not? did you try it first before rebuilding it? If you did already answer this in one of the other many posts in this thread I am sorry for missing it. I was just asking the obvious question.
     
  15. messkit

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2013
    Messages:
    14
    When I first received the stove the first thing I did was inpect the NRV valve. The condition of this valve I used to guage the condition of all of the other rubber. My NRV sort of disintegrated into tiny pieces when pulling it out. That is when I opted for the replacement gasket kit and then the real fun began.

    Honestly, even if I bought another NOS stove, I would probably replace all the gaskets, even if the stove worked out of the box. Mine is over 30 years old after all. Why wait for one of the gaskets to fail? At an inopportune time no less, like in the middle of preparing a meal?
     
  16. bajabum

    bajabum R.I.P.

    Offline
    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2005
    Messages:
    7,368
    As issued, with the cannister carry case/pot set, there was a round steel plate to place on top of the burner, the "simmer plate"

    You can use a tin can lid, or a round electric box cover as well...
     
  17. Murph

    Murph United States Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    May 14, 2010
    Messages:
    2,584
    Location:
    Milwaukee WI, USA
    Never saw a simmer plate with a M1950, but there should be one with a Coleman 530.

    Murph
     
  18. geeves

    geeves New Zealand Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2009
    Messages:
    6,939
    Location:
    Christchurch NZ
    my smc 1950 can be turned down till bubbles form on the bottom of the pot but never make the surface and will stay that way at least 5 minutes probably longer. I consider its simmer at least as good as a 123.
    The control is very touchy though and lighting always exciting
     
  19. Viscara

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2011
    Messages:
    734
    Location:
    Originally Silicon Valley now in Netherlands.
    messkit Sorrry was not trying to suggest you did not know what you were doing as it is clear your pretty smart and handy. I was more curious if the stove had worked out of the box so to speak. As I am sure there is always bound to be one stove or car out there that is a lemon. Sorry to see that happen. I have seen these stoves go pretty cheap if you keep looking. I have a 2nd one that I got brand new "Old Surplus" or "New Old stock" for a mere 30 bucks. Look around and they do pop up from time to time. I do love their legs and windscreen.

    Baja
    Mine did not come with a simmer plate glad you mentioned that as I had seen them but forgot about those. Handy when you making a rice or grilled sandwich.
     
  20. yonadav

    yonadav Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2010
    Messages:
    2,366
    Location:
    Israel
    I highly recommend the M-1942. I have one that even simmers quite well, although it was not supposed to. I guess the stove did not read the manual. :lol:

    Yonadav