Hi, I'm restoring and old Optimus 8R, I cleaned up the insides and replaced the spindle packing and filler cap rubber. It burned pretty good, but not as hard as my memory served me (we had one of these when I was a kid, 30 years ago). I also had a look at the wick and figured I could replace that as well (tip was somewhat charred and the ends were very 'fluffy' and too long), but can only get the part tomorrow. After reassembling the burner on the tank I wasn't sure if it was tight enough and attempted another turn. I quickly stopped after 1/8 of a turn because it was sure that wasn't going to work and set it back again. Now when I fire the stove I sometimes get a little flame near the tapered thread. I've read that I can use some thread tape or instant gasket to fix this. I can get Loctite 55 at a local hardware store and have some thin white teflon thread tape at home. The hardware store also has some no-brand solution based stuff and some rope/glue combo's. What would be the best material to use? The Loctite 55 wire looked a bit thick? (0.7mm was labeled on the package). Please advice, Thanks, Ted Here's my 8R before After
Hi Ted, welcome to CCS. The wick can be replaced with cotton string, often sold as kitchen string or butchers string. You could also use the cotton from a mop head. It must be cotton though. I use high temperature copper grease on all my stove threads. I wouldn't use Loctite as it would make it difficult to replace the wick in the future. Nice work on the stove . Terry
Hi, thanks for the reply. I'm not familiair with copper grease but could try to get some at a specialized hardware store closeby. Would it work as a sealant as well? Couldn't figure that out after googling it...
Hey, Tedy, Welcome to CCS! I usually use graphite paste to seal such leaks, and so far, it's worked perfectly. Good luck, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc
Hi Ted, The main use of Copper grease is to make it easier to undo a joint, but it also has some sealing properties. Usually found in auto parts stores. As Doc says, graphite paste works well to form a seal. Terry
I used anti seize paste for automobile brakes once only because I had nothing else in the garage at the time. Worked like a charm.
I used " LoXeal" brand thread sealer from an auto parts store, and it worked well. They have several types, I got the type that can be re-opened. Your stove looks really nice. Actually, the "before" shots look better than one of my "after" 8R's. Waiting for some flame shots, and, by the way, welcome to CCS! Yonadav
Thanks all - plenty of options to choose from I see. high temperature copper grease Teflon pipe tape graphite paste anti seize paste for automobile brakes "LoXeal" brand thread sealer Once I replaced the wick and sealed the leakage I'll post some flame shots as well. I plan to paint the case, which is now completely sanded blank, metal blue again and I ordered an imitation brand sticker from Ebay. Hopefully my kids will enjoy this one as much as I did 30 years ago and pass it on as well.
if it felt like it wouldnt go any further then thats a good reason not to. It is a brass thread and we dont know if it was a weakling turning it or a hercules. When risking a brass thread I always take the weakling option. I used a yellow ptfe tape on mine designed for gas threads and melting point 250C. Unfortunately I need to have another go at the wick in the 8r although the 123r now glows red to the bottom of the bell at full noise. Still sounds like a steam train though but the steam train is doing 200kph.
It's been a few years since I serviced the wick last in my 8R. I do recall using my vice. Put the vapo tube nut in the vice jaws, with alu sheet to protect the flats, and turned the tank onto the tapered thread. It was VERY tight for the last half turn. J
After reading the comments again I wondered if I had tightened it enough. With regular hand power I could get it to the correct position, so I figured is was worth trying another turn. I managed another turn, (stopped about 1/8 before it) with an adjustable wrench but in the process the wrench slipped and rounded off the head (I know, should not have used a wrench but put it in a vice). I filed some flat ends on the screwhead nut to fit a normal spanner. In the mean time I got a new wick and some coppergrease. I fitted the wick and put some copper grease on the thread and put it back together. I did some testing again, no leaks, but still not as hard burning as I thought it could be. What I noticed what that when I turned the valve closed, it was a short step to full and quickly after that it naturally goes out and the needle comes out. It for sure was not the 1/4 turn that the manual says between close and full. So I re-seated the needle with 3 clicks instead of 4, but that made things worse. Then I did 5 clicks and that did the trick. I have more 'room' between close and full power and the needle still comes out nicely. The burner also burners a bit harder I believe. When I first got it to work two days ago, 500ml of tapwater took about 6 minutes to a full boil inside, now it takes 4 1/2 minute. The top of the burner head gets red-hot, and so do the pot stands where the flames reach them. I'll take an outdoor picture tonight when it is dark. Here's an indoor video. Thanks again for all the help. [media=youtube]Oi8plPS6C2A[/media] [youtube][media=youtube]Oi8plPS6C2A[/media][/youtube]
Hi, tedv, Excellent, and very well done! That's just how your 8r should be burning, so you did just fine. Congrats and enjoy that little wonder of a stove!! Thanks for the report and your video of how it all turned out. Take care, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc
I'd have to say, after watching the video, the 8R is working great! Probably better than most of the 8Rs I've had. Nice job. sam
