Hi donv, great stove you got there. I've just fallen in love with it myself, and hopefully you'll get it up and running good, so that you can enjoy this great stove. You say you're having the wheel turned all the way to the left? This stove has a built in needle that sticks up as you turn it all the way, stopping the fuel from coming out of the jet while cleaning it. How does it run with the wheel half way between "closed" and "all the way to the left"? If your stove is preheated sufficiently, all the fuel that runs through the burner should vaporize completely, and wouldn't be liquid coming out of the jet. The only way you would see liquid fuel on a stove sufficiently preheated would be from a leak somewhere in the burner itself (at the connection to the fuel line, for instance), or maybe around the jet if it sits loosely and has lots of fuel escaping. From the video it seems to me like you have a leak around the jet. My guess is that your jet isn't secured tightly enough, in combination with an insufficient preheat. I'm not sure, but I believe I can hear that typical whispery, dribbling sound of liquid fuel coming out of the jet as you open the valve, which would indicate an insufficient preheat. Try filling the fuel cup all the way with denatured alcohol, make sure there is no wind, and light it up. Let the alcohol burn out completely, open the fuel valve until you hear gas flowing out, and light the burner quickly from the top. You can never damage your stove by excessive preheating, and for the sake of eliminating preheating as a factor, I'd say it's something you should at least try. If you still get poor, yellow flames coming from underneath the burner, I would try tightening the jet. It sometimes needs a bit of force to be secured well enough, but don't overdo it. Then, again, with a solid preheat, try lighting it up. If you make a video of your entire procedure of lighting the stove (filling the tank, preheat, pressurizing and lighting), I think it would be easier for people to judge whether it's you or the stove who's causing this unfortunate result. Hope you'll sort it out, and good luck with your fix. Håkon
I regularly use saline spray for my nose. I buy a brand called "Ayr" that come in small plastic squirt bottles. The discarded bottles are my favorite priming alcohol containers. You can buy the full bottle in most drugstores for $1, and just discard the contents. Yonadav
Interesting. I suspect, from the way the flame can be turned down and up at will, that it is not a problem with preheating and that it is vaporizing properly. If that was liquid kerosene burning the results would be a lot messier. It looks to me as if it is being wildly over-fueled somehow, and I would look closely at your jet and its surroundings to see what is going on down there. Does it by any mad chance have the air restrictor in place? This should only be used with the large alcohol jet and alcohol fuel. Can you get some good lighting under the burner and take a closeup pic of the setup?
Hey, Donv, HUmmmm..... I have a few thoughts about your stove, now that I've seen it in "inaction". First, did you replace the O-ring on the pump rod? How full are you filling the fuel tank? Needs to be only about 2/3 full, with room for air expansion, and pumping pressure. Are you actually pumping the stove up, before trying to light it? Did you change the fuel cap gasket before trying to light it? There are several things that can cause stoves to burn they way yours is burning. I would be happy to help you with your stove, if you can meet me half way between LA and the San Bernardino Mountains, where we live. I will be heading down to Ontario, to the Toyota dealership, to get our Tacoma pickup serviced, next Monday morning. If you are free, and can meet me somewhere around there, at the dealership, or say around Victoria Gardens, maybe we can suss out what's wrong with your stove and get it running as it should be. Let me know as soon as you can, so we can make a firm plan. I can take a tool box, some parts, fuel, Meths, and a few other things, if you can meet me. But, I don't want to take that stuff down there, if you can't. No worries, if it doesn't work out for you, and we can try to do it another time. But, give it some thought, and let me know, OK? I'm sure we can get your stove up and running like a champ, once a few small details are made right. Take care, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc P.S, Yonadav, I use that same nasal spray, and also use the empty containers for priming Meths, just like you do!! 8) Hey, it works perfectly, and the Meths does not hurt the plastic bottle, either.
it looks like you are not building pressure or maintaining pressure. Another possibility is that he screen is clogged and not allowing the proper amount of fuel through. Have you disassembled the stove and cleaned it? I have a later model 111T and I have one like yours coming. They are very simple to work on. OH. I just had a thought while writing this. How much rotation on the control knob do you have. I bought a 8R that was behaving in a similar manner and a previous owner had removed and replaced the cleaning needle. It was not adjusted properly and would burp fuel when you tried adjusting it. It also would not develope a strong flame because the needle was blocking the jet.
Hi Doc, Can't meet on monday due to work but i appreciate the offer. I have not done any maintenance on the stove since the purchase, but now it is apparent that i will need to. I don't think it's a priming issue since i primed it 3 times before lighting the burner. I'm going to empty the fuel tonight and start doing some maintenance. I'll keep posting here with updates thanks
Try this. Remove the jet and turn the control knob to the left until the cleaning needle comes out. Reinstall the jet, and turn the control knob to the right until it stops. Go through the lighting procedures. Let's see what you get. You are going to be pleased with it when you get it going. I have a bunch of stoves of different makes and models and I do not know that the 111T is not my favorite.
Hey, donv, Sorry you can't make a meeting, as I am 100% sure that we could get your stove up and running in a very short time. Did you get the original instructions for your stove when it came to you? If not, then please check out the "Instructions" area in the Reference Section, and you can find the proper ones for your stove. Follow them carefully. Then, make sure to change out your fuel cap gasket, which may well be your culprit. And, you will need a nice and proper O-ring for your pump rod, unless your pump rod has been changed to one with a leather pump cup. You need to use Nitrile, or Viton, rubber for your gaskets, and O-rings. Make sure your O-ring is a tight fit, and lube it well before inserting the rod into the pump tube. We can talk about your NRV replacement after you get the stove up and running, but that's another thing that we would have done if you could have met up with me on Monday. There's also an SRV, but again, we can talk about that later. Now, one other thing that needs to be done, is to reset your cleaning needle. You need to remove the jet, the turn your spindle all the way to the left, raising the needle. Gently remove it with a pair of needle-nose pliers, or tweezers. Then, with the needle removed, turn your spindle all the way to the right. Reinsert your cleaning needle, making sure the teeth are in the proper orientation, and then GENTLY pressing down on the needle (avoid breaking the actual needle off!!!!), slowly turn your spindle to the left and count the "clicks". You should go about four clicks, or possibly five, then turn your spindle all the way to the right, lowering your needle back in place. Replace your jet, then test the stove. You should now have a nice range of motion in your spindle, and more flame adjustment between full burning, and simmering. That's about all I can suggest, other than making sure you use new, clean fuel, but it Coleman fuel or K-1, water-white, kerosene. Fill your priming cup all the way up, make sure your fuel cap is tightly closed, then gently pump your stove around four times. Prime, light, and when your prime is almost consumed, open the spindle very slowly, and see if the stove lights. If not, then strike a match, and open it again, holding the match close to the burner top. If all is well, and you've changed your gaskets and O-ring, and followed directions, you should be rewarded with a nice blue flame. Let your burner get a bit hotter before you pump more, but when it's ready, you can give it more pumps. Do not over-pump it, however. You will soon learn what a full flame looks and sounds like, and then you just pump up to it's full flame and call it good. Good luck, and let us know how you make out. By the way, Harbor Freight has a nice selection of Nitrile O-rings in both SAE, and Metric. I bought both sets, just in case. Not sure where you can find Nitrile rubber sheets in LA, from which to cut your fuel cap gasket. But if all else fails, send me your mailing address in a PT, and I'll send you a fuel cap gasket. Take care, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc
Hi Doc, Yes, I have the original instructions. One question. Is the jet the same as what the instructions call the nipple? I wish I could meet up on Monday but it just won't be possible. Anyway, I'm going to start working on the stove this weekend while I have some free time. I'll let you know how things come along Thanks
Hi, donv, Yep, some call it a jet, and some call it a nipple. Same item in both cases. Not to worry about our not being able to meet up for some stove fettling. Hopefully, we can do that another time, and make a Mini Meet out of it by getting a few others from down here to join us!! Good luck on your stove fettling, and I look forward to seeing how it all turns out. Take care, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc
Doc, "nipple" sounds sexier "jet" sounds more like an action star I will get my coat and rush for the door now. Ron
so i reset the cleaning needle. I haven't changed the o ring or the gasket yet. Now i'm getting a low blue flame when the spindle is all the way to the left. As i move to the right i start to get large yellow flames until i get almost all the way to the right and i'm back to a small blue then off. I tried another fuel cap that came with it but same results. Should i still change the rubber even if it looks fine? I tried to lube the pump ring because it if very sticky. Didn't really help. any advice on lubing the pump tube? Does the restrictor need to be inserted in any particular fashion or just drop it in?
Hi donv, What fuel are you using? The restrictor is for alcohol only. Can you post some photos? Yonadav
Ok all the way left should be little to no flame as the cleaning needle should be in the jet and all the way right is off. When in the middle with the large yellow flame does it continue to burn? It sounds like valve is working correctly. Have you let it burn like that and see if it settles down? When I got my first 111T I had the same large yellow flame and I believe I was not letting it preheat enough. You can also get a large yellow flame if it is low on fuel. Took me a bit to figure that one out. Also is your handle black or kinda brownish red?
Hi, donv, Personally, I would stop messing with your stove UNTIL you change your fuel cap gaskets and pump O-ring. Yes, fuel cap gaskets can "look" just fine, and still be far too hard to seal your tank completely. As for the O-ring, I will pretty much guarantee that it has been flattened by sitting in the pump tube, and needs to be replaced. I grease mine with a gun grease, Rig Universal, which works well. In any case, if you need to, you can send your stove to me, and I will fettle it, then return it to you. I also got a note from BernieDawg, who made the same offer. So, if you can't get 'er going, either one of us can help you, should you wish it. Good luck, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc
Yonadav I'm using Kerosene. I'll try to get some close up pics tonight. Thanks Doc. First i'm going to try getting it going myself so i can learn and practice for next time. thanks for the offer and i may take you up on it if all else fails. What size O ring do i need? and what thickness of rubber for the gas cap? looks like i'm going to have to buy online.
Possibly I missed something, perhaps are you using the restrictor while burning kerosene? If so, just take off the restrictor and all will be right. Orsoorso
Hey, donv, As to size of O-rings, what I do is to try various sizes and pick the fattest one that actually fits into the pump tube when lubricated with a good gun grease. I'm not a fan of the O-ring system, I must admit, and have actually changed the pump rod for most of the 111T stoves that I actually use, with the earlier version, which has a leather pump bucket. They are far less hassle, and as far as I'm concerned, work much better. But, I still do have a few 111T stoves with the O-ring setup, too. Just don't use them that much. You can check the Fettle Box over to the right side of this page, for rebuild kits that might work for you, or contact A&H, right here in California, for such a kit. If we could plan to meet up, I have a ton of the proper parts, and would happily supply what you need, no charge. Unfortunately, today would have been my only free day to do that, until late June. Work is going to be hot and heavy after today, and in fact, I may be somewhat scarce here at CCS for a while. In any case, check with the Fettle Box, and also A&H, and either place should be able to fix you right up with what you need to fettle your 111T. A&H would be much faster, as they are not that far from you, and delivery would be super quick. Talk to you later, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc P.S. the previous poster is absolutely right. The restrictor is only used with Meths, and no other fuels.
