Quick Svea 123 Fettle Question

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by Schwert, Aug 16, 2013.

  1. Schwert

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    On the Svea 123 (notR) I want to replace my wick.

    Is it best to remove the vaporizer by clamping the vaporizer/spindle in a vise and twisting off the tank---or use a wrench on the "nut" at the base of the vaporizer?

    I watched BD's video of disassembly on the 123R where he employs a vise to good effect.

    But the 123 spindle is so much more delicate I am uncertain if clamping it up in a vise is wise. But at the same time the vaporizer base nut fitting has to be fairly soft so a wrench on that may be just as damaging.

    Thanks
     
  2. snwcmpr

    snwcmpr SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Welcome to CCS.
    BD is a master, I would not dispute anything he says.
    Most times I have not had any problem using a wrench and holding the tank in my hand.
    Once, I used a strap wrench to hold my tank, and a wrench on the 'nut'. It came off fairly easily. But, be aware it may twist the brass tank before it comes off, if it is on tight. Beware how much you twist.
    There are a lot of details so I would suggest you read more on this forum of what others have done.

    Ken in NC
    (I used to live near Seattle)
     
  3. Schwert

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    Thanks Ken. I am assembling what might turn into a Fettling Kit...though I tried to resist this new project area.

    Picked up some flare wrenches for the spindle nut and hopefully the vaporizer tube...stopping at Napa for anti-seize paste and also picked up a can of carburetor cleaner.

    Once The Fettle Box returns I will order some cap seals and who knows what else.

    I am sorely tempted to swing by the used gear place on the way home today just to give a once-over to the other Svea's he had. Once a parts job for sure that could really use some work...not that I want that project ](*,)

    However, If I got a packet of viton seals I may as well have enough stoves to use em....
     
  4. Nordicthug

    Nordicthug R.I.P.

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    Schwert,

    I recently had a 123 that had the riser stuck. I clamped the "nut" in my vise, then broke the tank free with the small strap wrench from the Harbor Freight set. Worked like a charm and no marks on any part of the stove. When I reassembled it I made sure that I didn't turn the riser too far into the tank, only till slightly firm with TFPE tape on the threads and the valve spindle pointed to the "1" on 123. Make sure to observe the position on an assembled stove.

    Harbor Freight Item #94119

    Gerry
     
  5. Schwert

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    I have it apart. Wrench and a gorilla grip on the tank did it. Wick a bit charred, but really not bad. Got a good bit of crud out of the vaporizer with a brush and carb cleaner. Wenol-ed the tank too. Tomorrow I will pick up some anti-seize and get it back together.

    Destroyed the cap seal so will have to wait a bit before I can rebuild that.

    Is a SRV pentagon tool something I can buy, or do I need to use padded mole grips?
     
  6. Schwert

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    Well my fettle has been a tremendous success. My 123 is like a little blowtorch now.

    I bought an O-ring for a temp fix of the cap but that is working a treat. The pip ought to be replaced for sure though, so I still have a bit of work ahead...but otherwise all went well.

    I built a new wick using high quality kitchen string.
    Cleaned out the vaporiser, nipple, and spindle with a brush and carb cleaner.
    Reused the original graphite packing.
    I polished the tank about 90%.
    Used copper high temp anti-seize on the stem.
    Burned about a half tank of Coleman with a good spritz of carb cleaner for the first burn.

    Thanks to all here. My reading and video watching over the last week was almost like an apprentiship.

    Photos on Monday.
     
  7. Nordicthug

    Nordicthug R.I.P.

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    Schwert,

    Send me Private Message, what the English call a spanner Private Topic and I'll send you my Email and Street addresses. Then, if you want you can stop by and I'll give you a Viton fill cap gasket and a pip. If your stove is running OK, you probably don't need a pip, but two or three are always good to have.

    Gerry
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 2, 2015
  8. snwcmpr

    snwcmpr SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Great news.
    Just to be sure .. the mop string is ALL cotton, correct?
    The 5 sided wrench is a topic worth researching on this forum. That is a safety valve. Some say repair, some say replace the whole cap.

    Ken in NC
     
  9. Schwert

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    Gerry PM sent...and thanks.

    Ken, yup pure cotton string.

    I love the smell of burning cotton in the morning :mrgreen:
     
  10. Schwert

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    As promised here are a few shots from the rebuild of my most recently acquired Svea 123

    Disassembled. Note the bit of char on the old wick and the new one I built from three pieces of high quality kitchen string and some Nickel/Chrome wire.

    1377020465-SveaDisassembled_4725.jpg

    Wick inserted.

    1377020474-SveaWick_4728.jpg

    Everything put back together with a bit of polish to the tank.

    1377020490-SveaRebuilt_4744.jpg

    And its first test burn. Flame intensity is vastly improved, and the sound is the heart-throbbing thumps of my 4+ decades olds memory.

    1377020480-SveaBurning_4734.jpg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 26, 2015
  11. Tracer

    Tracer Subscriber

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    Well done and nice duo with the Optimus 88.
    Great setup for camping or hiking.
    We are very curious here, what are the other cooksets in the photo?

    :thumbup:
     
  12. Schwert

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    I have two Sigg pots, small and quite large one...I think 3.5 pints and 7 pints. The small pot is of the exact same vintage as my original Svea ~1971, (not the one restored here), the larger one I found at a thrift shop for 50 cents. It really is too large to be much use for anything except car camping. It normally lives in my kitchen.

    A "1951" (stamped on the bottom) heavy aluminum 3-piece set which is a large pot with lid/frypan and lighter inside pot with hanging bail. This kit I really do not know much about. I bought it at a Goodwill store for pennies.
     
  13. ulysses

    ulysses Subscriber

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    The "1951" set is the US Army's "Mountain Cook Kit", made for the M1942 stove. It was originally issued to the 10th Mountain Div., Rangers and other elite troops. I recently bought a set with a 1969 date, so they were made and used over a long period of time. The two pots with bails are aluminum, and the lid / fry pan is stainless steel. An 8R fits nicely inside too...

    Paul
     
  14. Schwert

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    Thanks Paul. I had a feeling the "1951" set was military given how heavy it is...though it is a pretty soft alloy.

    I will have to look closer at the lid as it did not strike me as stainless, however it is quite a bit less corroded now that I think about it.

    I cannot see ever using it on the Svea, but on my old Coleman suitcase stove it would be quite a good fit.
     
  15. ulysses

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    I also have three of the Sigg pots. The 123 fits very nicely into the smallest of them. I got them in the early 70s and the 123 and one or two of the smallest posts were my standard backpacking kit. The three of them nested together with a 123 is our car camping kit now.

    Paul
     
  16. Schwert

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    I am constantly on the lookout for the Sigg pots. I wish I had bought the two smallest ones back in the day rather than just my small one. They really were...and are, top notch pots even compared to the nicest titanium ones of today.

    One of my most joyous moments was finding the larger Sigg pot I have at the thrift shop marked for a buck...then I leaped a bit more with joy when I found out it was half-price for everything day.


    I am a bit red-faced....as at lunch time I added a third Svea 123 to my pile. This one in almost new unburned state. I will have to see how it functions later tonight, but given its state I am betting it will need a cap seal at best.