Just added another Optimus 111 to the collection and trying to give it a bit of a spruce up. I'm finding it soooooo difficult on this one to remove the jet. It's on very tight and I can't get good purchase with the Optimus spanner. It's always a little tricky working on these 4 tube burners I find, but this one's a pain in the you know what! Any suggestions guys?
Try just the tiniest bit of tightening before attempting to loosen the jet. Seems to work well for me when brass to brass joints are stubborn.
I've always used the standard spanner that comes with the stove but I believe there a tool out there with an articulated head that makes this easy.
Yes, I've seen that tool if you're talking about the T bar with swivel socket on the end. I've fought off purchasing one though because I was doubtful that the socket would sit nicely on the jet of the 111 four tube kero burner and also fit in between the tubes when seating it. Have you any experience of using this tool and is it as practical as it is looks? Is there much play on the swivel joint and can you get increased leverage in reality? I suppose what I'm asking is, is it worth getting one
I have a swivel head T bar jet wrench. It does come in handy at times and I think it's a good idea to have one in your tool box. The ones I've seen are for the smaller 2500 size jets and I'm not sure if these are available for the 111 size jets. Even for the smaller jets I find the swivel head wrench is not as practical as it seems. You won't get increased leverage you just get a bigger turn of the jet before needing to reposition the wrench. When I use this T-bar swivel wrench I use it in addition to a dedicated spanner. For the 2500 jet size I use a 5/32 inch ignition wrench (4mm). For initial loosening and final tighten I always use the ignition wrench. In your case here where the jet is extra tight I would recommend a dedicated spanner a bit longer then the Optimus spanner for a bit extra torque plus the other suggestions above. A little penetrating oil could help too. In the Metric world a 5mm would probably fit good. In most cases the Opti spanner that comes with the stove is usually sufficient. Ray
Hi Svea, I've had this craftsman set for about 20 years. It's just a set of small wrenches in sizes 5/32 inch to 7/16 inch. The 5/32 inch which I call 4mm is pictured next to the T-bar. I have been able to do a jet change with this wrench alone plus my fingers but sometimes also use the T-bar in conjunction. Ray
HOW TO REMOVE A DEFORMED/MISSHAPEN JET AT A 111 ROARER BURNER? SEE PICTURE NO 1 AND 2. I was lucky to get a few extra single burners for the 111`s. Guess these are hard to get separately and they could be useful. The jets at the 111T (silent) are all fine. This one (the roarer) is for sure deformed. I have no roarer burner to miss, so before I try I will be very thankful for good advices... I have been thinking to visit a good mechanic-guy I know and ask if he could possible help. I am sure the standard spanner for 111 will not work. Any suggestions @kerophil @Afterburner or anyone I can ask?
@IvarS Get a good file and straighten the long edges of the nipple; give the area where the nipple joins with the burner a good soak in 1 part acetone mixed with 1 part automatic break fluid (overnight). That should be enough to allow the standard nipple remover to work, even though it is a little loose. Tony
Thanks @Tony Press - aceton to clean I guess? What good thing will the brake fluid do? Wish there were a tool (better than the standard spanner). Working between the 4 tubes is a bit tricky, but I love this burner for my 111's
@IvarS There is a nipple removal tool that goes through the tube where the jet expels its vapour. I have many, if you want one. The mixture of acetone and ATF produces a penetrating oil that gets into the spaces cleaned by the acetone. Cheers Tony
Thanks again @Tony Press - if you can offer me one of these Tools I will be happy to try. Then tell me if I can do something back; spare parts for 111 is an option.
Hi, Tony is right to suggest penetrating oil as a start to any removal attempt. I would say that there are several different removal options, and it would be good to make a list, with the easiest first, and a rule that if it doesn't work nothing you have done should prevent the next option for being tried. For example, filing and tidying up the existing jet to accept a standard spanner or articulated key could be the first and second options. The third option might be to silver braze a hexagonal brass nut on top of the deformed jet. This brazing operation should require a loweer melting temperature than the original braze used for the tubes and jet seat of the burner. Once attached a conventional small spanner/wrench could be used to remove the jet. Option 4 might be to try an extractor tool with a left hand thread. This would first need a hole to be made in the jet itself, and the extractor tool to also be cut down in length to fit into the confined space, and be driven with a spanner. If all else fails we may have to think about focussing a fine flame onto the jet seating and removing/ replacing the seating and jet. The above list is not exhaustive, but should give some idea of what I think should be done. Best Regards, Kerophile.
It should indeed be automatic transmission fluid, not break fluid. Brake fluid is again something completely different. Think Tony had "one of these moments", a slip of the brain(cel)! Best regards, w!m
Once again; very impressed by the: Knowledge in this forum The passion for stoves The willingness to share There is a term used about social media; 'sharing is caring', so also when it come to CCS. All above makes me want to give something back (not only pics from my last roadtrips in Northern Norway).
