I just got done with a search and I didn't see an answer. Does anybody know what the diameter (gauge) is of the twisted wire for the wick? John
Not sure there is a special diameter. Last one I did got a single strand of cat 5 solid computer wire that was stripped of its insulation. One before got a strand out of normal electrical wire.
Hi, John Fellow member BernieDawg (Gary at www.bluewaterstove.com) makes a new wick in one of his several good YouTube "how to" videos. He mentions using .032" stainless wire in this one, and suggests maybe smaller wire as well. You can follow along at [media=youtube]-svgLuqyGG4[/media] which shows the reassembly process. Before I started lurking and learning more here, I carefully reused the original wire and used plain cotton twine (about the size of a single strand from a cotton mop head) on my 123, and the stove's been happy for several years with that arrangement. Good luck! Rick C
Using copper wire? Wouldn't that flake off as it does when trying to make silent caps from copper, and so copper wasn't used? Or does it NOT get hot enough in the vaporizer to do that? Ken in NC
Hi John, I use 22 gauge solid brass wire (except when 20 is all I can get). This size is strong enough to make the wick insertion easier and in years down the road it will come out with a good tug no matter how abused the stove. I like the wick to be snug in the tube so it will stay put. I also adjust the wick position using a flame test, too far in and there is orange in the flame, too far out and the blue flame is weak. I'm still undecided about wrapping it in brass wire mesh (any opinions out there).
That's interesting about flame color and how far the wick is inserted into the stem. I have just been putting in in as far as it will go. I'll have to experiment. What have you found for the best flame? John
The original wire in two of my 8Rs, one of my Optimus 80s, two 123s and a Primus 71 are all copper wire the same diameter as four strand telephone wire that houses used to be wired from the telephone ear to the connector at the foundation with. I have a thirty foot (9.144M) length I acquired many years ago. It is very likely all that I will need if I live (as I intend) through 2514. There are four single strand wires in the cable, not tinned, not twisted. Inserting the wick as far as it will easily go is sufficient. Mesh is doable but a certified PIA. Gerry
I have found that if you insert the wick all the way in and back it out about 2 - 3 mm works the best. Mind you that is 2 - 3 mm from the end to the start of the cotton. I have noticed some people keep the loop at the end (perhaps for grip) and the wick is incorporated in the twists of the wire with 2 - 3 mm twisted wire extending beyond. So that would be full in. I agree with Gerry about the mesh being a PIA but if it stops the burning of the wick it might be wroth the effort. One thing, with the SVEA 123 (not as much for the 123R) it can be a royal PIA or worse removing the vaporizer when it has been in there a while. I put an anti-seize compound on the threads before assembly. Just be sure it is heat rated (mine says up to 1150 deg. C). Also you know that aligning the valve just on the right side of the "1" will get it centred on the opening. I saw on 123 Windshield where someone cut one of the posts to get at the valve.
Thanks to all. I appreciate the knowledge of everyone. Another question, where have you found the penta bit to remove the screw on the cap. I think Berniedog is in between runs. What size is used? John
Hi, John On that penta-bit, there's another member here who sells one on eBay (check for seller quietstove.) I got one of his since BernieDawg's out of them. It looks to be a Torx T-20 security bit, five sided instead of six. By paying attention to BernieDawg's cautions about it, I recently finished fettling five Svea/Optimus caps using it. Only one got slightly buggered, before I figured out what I was doing (it was one of them where the cap insert was glued/sealed in--that's some nasty sealer they used! 48 hours soaking in denatured alcohol barely touched the stuff.) The little bit of damage was basically cosmetic, cleaned up with a touch of file work and some polish. I tried a couple of approaches. The technique that worked best for me was to mount the bit horizontally in a bench vise so it's good and solid. Then I wrapped the cap in a strip of leather to preserve the finish, and held it with a pair of water pump pliers (dunno what name they go by on the UK side of the pond, but they're large, offset adjustables for those not familiar.) By kind of leaning into the cap some, pushing it with one hand while turning the pliers with the other, I could keep it tightly on the bit so it came apart without any drama. I'd still like to have one of Gary's tools if I planned on working on these caps all the time, though... Good luck! Rick C
