leaking nipple...

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by bajabum, Feb 3, 2007.

  1. bajabum

    bajabum R.I.P.

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    I bought a 'used' roarer burner from base camp, and come to find it leaks from under the nipple. the nipple is extremely tight, so I guess it was cross threaded. Any ideas on sealing it up? I don't know how hot it gets , will ptfe tape or the hi temp rtv work? Perhaps a copper washer? Any help greatly appreciated!
     
  2. Nordicthug

    Nordicthug R.I.P.

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    The nipple doesn't get all that hot, so a teensy dab of copper bearing hi-temp rtv will do the trick.

    I have gotten several roarer burners back in service through the "good offices" if you will, of that stuff.

    Take a brass wire brush to all the mating surfaces to be sure everything is as clean as possible. A brass M16 toothbrush is what I use. Get the nipple screwed down just snug, then let it set for an hour or so to cure a little.

    Gerry
     
  3. bajabum

    bajabum R.I.P.

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    Thanks, Gerry!. I'll get some manana!
     
  4. paul

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    Loctite make a high temp thread lock-come-sealer. Negates the need for calmonite washers, so see no reason why it wouldn't work here.
     
  5. CWilkins

    CWilkins Subscriber

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    Gerry, What is this stuff? I could use it with an old Optimus 45 that has the same problem as Steve's.

    Chuck
     
  6. bajabum

    bajabum R.I.P.

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    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 1, 2015
  7. Ian

    Ian Subscriber

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    There's also this one. I always put a smear of this on the threads when I refit burners. It does the job whether you fit a heatproof washer or not.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 1, 2015
  8. n2666s

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    same problem, my "go to stove" has sprung a "nipple leak"; ](*,) ](*,)
    1407014805-010_flaming_jet_nipple.jpg
    she is already tight so am scared of over tightening and screwing things up again ](*,)
    has anyone tried exhaust assembly Hylomar paste :?:
    label says stable up to 1000 degrees Celsius?
    http://hylomar.com/hylo-wp/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/Hylomar_Exhaust_Assembly_Paste_TDS_2011.pdf]Link Hylomar Exhaust assembly paste[/url]
    am very tempted to try it as have seen it used on exhaust manifolds.....but a bit worried if I have to take the nipple out again :shock:
    the Hylomar Blue is good to 250 Degrees Celsius and like it cause it is a LOT less expensive + can be taken off again w/o binding BUT is 250 Celsius less than what the burner nipple is exposed to during normal use :?: .
    http://hylomar.com/hylomar-product-range/gasket-jointing-compounds/#universalblue]Link Hylomar Blue[/url]
    hate the idea of sticking something in and have to drill it out if anything happens :shock: all advice and suggestions appreciated; cheers :)

    Lou
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 2, 2015
  9. snwcmpr

    snwcmpr SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Take the jet out and look at the seating areas of the jet and burner, you may have a small nick.
    Also check the threads for burrs.

    Ken in NC
     
  10. n2666s

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    Ken, I took it out and cleaned it and the threads; looked at the nipples threads and they look ok under magnification; very awkward to get to the burner side threads ](*,) BUT they do look ok under my triphocals :oops: ; just think it has been overtightened so it bottoms out w/o making a good seal; will have to think of something to seal the threads; was thinking Hylomar cause it is not a hardening type of sealant + it is fuel and heat resistant.........cheers :)
    Lou