Well I finally was able to pick up a new to me kind of stove other than the normal Coleman style. It's a Hasag Number 1, made in Germany. I bought it on e-bay from someone located in Greece and now it's here in the US. It has a lot of battle scars and has had a lot of repairing done to it. But it'll be a good one to get me started with this kind of stove. The NRV is totally stopped up and I can't get any pressure to go into the tank. The pump has been pumped so much that the hole in the cap is now oblonged, And when the legs were soldered back onto the tank they aren't aligned well so that the top plate aligns up well. But it's something that I can learn on, Now to make a tool to remove the NRV. Gerald K4NHN Cayce, SC
Well I think I have the leaks repaired, filler cap, riser tube, and the NRV working good now. I'm having trouble getting a mist of fuel out of the jet. It acts like it's stopped up but I can get a picker wire in it. It's only a dribble out of it.. When I had the burner off, there are 2 small pieces of rolled up very fine mesh screen stuffed in the bottom of the burner. I guess it's supposed to be there to act as a filter. Am I correct about that? I unrolled it and washed it off with spray cleaner and put it back in. I have good fuel out of the riser tube without the burner installed. Should I remove one piece of the mesh screen. Looking at diagrams of this type of stove I don't any filters installed in them. Should I take it out? What am I missing...
probably made before 45. someone got happy with a soldering iron and a blow torch BUT it was probably all he had to work with ; and with those tools IMO did a good job; I don't think I could do better with those tools and 90% sure I would do worse . my opinion is take out the mesh; wash the reservoir with acetone and put in about 2 dozen small BBs, old screws, nuts and bolts and slosh around many many times; REALLY RATTLE and slosh over and over......let it sit over night, a day, two or more but always do the rattling and sloshing... pour out but save the old acetone; you can use it over and over. it never ceases to amaze me the amount of crud you can get out with this method; let the acetone dry, put in a bit of kero; slosh around again then discard then you are ready to go with clean kero; fill about 2/3rds then preheat real well......then you are ready to go UNLESS the burner is dirty inside..... but that is another subject altogether; hope this helps; cheers Lou
No harm in doing any of that but from what's been said, I think a burner blocked with carbon is likely to be the culprit...
Guys, Well I've hit a road block. I found that I still has a small leak at the bottom of the riser tube and decided to try and fix it while I was cleaning the tank. The tank was really in good shape. I also took the screen out and made sure that it was lean and only used one half of it back. I tried to unscrew the riser tube and it wouldn't move so I applied some heat and it soon started to unscrew, but it wasn't coming apart. No amount of effort would get it apart although it was loose. I feel that the threads are stripped and it's binding on itself. I've looked on the internet to see if I can find one to purchase but haven't found one the correct length. The one that I have is 1.37" long or 1 & 3/8" long. Being new to this type stoves, do most of the riser tubes have the same thread. If I could find a new on I'd use a small motor tool and cut this one off and hope that the threads on the male part on the tank are still good. I can't solder the raiser tube because of the oil that is still in the joint and it's already sort of out of round from previous repairs over the past years in it's life. If soldering is the only way out, I have ways of cleaning and fluxing it, and I'll do it but the threads on the top joint are in bad shape also with only a couple threads that are still catching for a tight joint. So what is the normal repairs for this problem or is it time to just call it a days and look for another stove to start with...
Hi Gerald, Do not attempt to take the riser off the tank. It is meant to be a permanent fitting on these non-collapsible models. It was installed on the top of tank, and secured with a nut, and solder, on the back face, before the top was fitted to the tank and secured at the Factory. https://classiccampstoves.com/posts/107381 Regards, Kerophile
