The second photo shows my 123 that runs beautifully. I never removed the burner on this one. The first photo is a 123 that I am preparing to install the burner on but it is not tight and will need to go around at least one more turn. I got this burner from a parts stove. Note how many more threads are showing on the running stove. Is there that much variation from stove to stove? I have not experienced any leaking from the running stove. Is any of this cause for concern? I'm always paranoid about how tight to turn these on and I've already ruined one and don't want to do that again. I have purchased a flare nut wrench to accomplish the task.
Hey, Lonnie, They can vary a bit, from stove to stove, but as the threads are tapered, they seal best when screwed in a bit more than that one photos shows, IMHO. I'd take it in another turn, and stop, then see how that looks and seals. Just my two cents..... Take care, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc
Thanks, Doc. I agree that it looks like it should go another turn. I'm just paranoid because it burns perfectly and after I bent that last burner I don't want to screw up another! Hopefully using the correct wrench will reduce that possibility.
I watched a Youtube vid on a 123 restoration by someone that seemed to know what they were talking about and he stated that you turn it further than you think you should...I will see if I can find the vid and provide a link. I havent torn my 123s down yet...they are in the que. Dave
Maybe a bit of copper anti-seize on the thread may ease the stress on the nut at either end of the spanner?
I've been using Permatex anti-seize on all my reassemblies. This is the grey colored stuff but the tube says it's suitable for -65 F to 2000 F intermittent.
