Is there a trick to installing a nipple jet in a roarer burner? I don't have the tool to remove the jet yet, but want to know why it seems impossible to install without the tool. I am assuming that installing with the proper tool will work and that it is not just designed to remove. Anyway, any suggestion as it is driving me nuts why I cannot get the jet started in what appears to be good female thread on the roarer. The jet is new. The roarer is off a Radius #1C. Thanks Bob
This kind if tool is for roarer burner: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nipple-Jet-...s-for-Primus-Optimus-etc-stoves-/251702219892 Also jet size (4mm?) wrench that ends are in suitable angle will work.
Thanks Afterburner, I have been looking in my very small town for ignition wrenches but to no avail. Anyway, looks like the secret is the nipple tool, will just have to wait til it arrives!
The trick is to get the tool. But even with the tool, it will probably drive you nuts the first time.
If the Fettlebox nipple removal tool is from the same suppliers as Ebay, they do not fit. Knuckles are too big.
I did not know the fettle box had those tools. I got this one a few months ago, and they fit better than the vintage ones. Comes from Florida, USA ........ Link ..... Ken in NC
The very first jet I changed, before I knew about CCS and these swivel head jet wrenches, I used a 5/32 inch ignition wrench. The metric size would be 4mm. It was not an easy process. A micro turn with the wrench, then a micro turn with my fingers until I could get the wrench back on and so forth. I would highly recommend buying a jet wrench! I have the same one as Ken's link above. I still use the 5/32" for initial loosening and final tightening. Last year I was able to change a jet on a Hovik Verk Primus 210 with only the ignition wrench. The procedure went very smoothly but that was the exception. Sometimes it is flat out impossible to get a small wrench on the jet when it's lined up directly with a burner tube and a swivel head wrench is the only way to get at it. Ray
I agree with above. I have a couple of much modified BA spanners in bizzare shapes which I still use on occasion. I have bought numerous jet wrenches over the years, many of which are fit only for the bin as there is no way they fit into the roarer heads, poorly made and over-sized. Alec.
I took my jet wrench to the grinder then repeened the axels . This tool has never helped me get the jet started though. For that I mount the jet in a plastic or rubber tube with ribs for grip
These postings should clear up how to do that! https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/23888 Have fun! Murph
Hello Landshark Take the jet and set it on the pricker. This makes it easy to hold the jet straight in place on the thread. Now you turn the jet with something soft. I use a Pencil with a eraser rubber end. A child with small fingers could turn the jet quite easily, as long as you hold the pricker. To tighten the last turn, you need a tool of course, but at least the jet is in place already. Radler
I'll jump in here with my method of installing a jet. I take the burner off the stove and turn it upside down. I hold the jet in place with one finger on my right hand, while putting my thumb and forefinger of my left hand through the two holes on the opposite side. I can then begin to turn the jet a smidgeon and then insert my thumb from my right hand. I then have 4 fingers in 4 holes and can turn the jet continuously until it sets and goes in until it gets to hard to turn more. I then use my wrench to tighten it. YMMV Stan
Really appreciate the great tips, really liked the one using the pricker to steady the jet. Brilliant. Got my jet tool from B L & S and it also came with a new jet. This jet went in no problem, so the one I was originally having problems must have been a hair too big, it was new and the threads appeared good. Anyway, with help of the jet tool it worked great, no problem getting it through the burner pipes. I had to make a 5/32 tool so I could tighten it down a bit. Here is the burner and flame shot. One thing I was also working on with this burner was the thing was plugged solid with carbon. I removed most of it with the heat and plunge and it worked well, no way was I in danger of heating up the burner and softening the solder. I also had two pin holes in the dipples at the top of two of the pipes. I bought a MAPP torch and used a bronze brazing rod to plug the holes. That worked well but I burnt away part of the top of the burner. I was more careful brazing the second hole but still managed to burn a small hole in the thin metal. It did not affect the flame spread, and my Radius 1C is pretty beat up so I'm not too worried with looks, don't plan on shinning her up, she will be a working stove. Here are my photos. Cheers Bob
