Optimus 111 Pump Tube: soldered or brazed

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by Tony Press, May 18, 2015.

  1. Tony Press

    Tony Press United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Has anyone ever removed a brazed Optimus 111 pump tube?

    I am in the process of repairing a tank (the NRV rotates freely in the bottom of the pump tube - it's knackered).

    I had a rough spare tank which had a soldered pump tube. Using one of Stu's (loco7stove) pump removal tools and a propane torch, it was easy to remove.

    But when I attempted to remove the broken pump tube from the other tank it would not budge.

    Is it brazed? If so can someone guide me through removing it?

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  2. 1966dave

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    I bet Stu or Kerophile will step in....I think between the 2 of them...there is nothing that hasnt been fixed..
     
  3. theyellowdog

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    Optimus 22's are soldered but I think 22b are braised. Might be the same for 111 and 111b
     
  4. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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  5. Tony Press

    Tony Press United Kingdom Subscriber

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    ... I think I have, in my collection, both soldered and brazed tanks for my 111s.

    I shall have to study up how to remove a brazed pump tube!

    Tony
     
  6. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Hi, you posed a good question Tony. I have just checked 6 Optimus 111 tanks to see what has been used to attach the filler spout and pump tubes.

    I used a Jewellers eye loupe and the point of a sharp penknife. I scratched the jointing metal to see whether it was lead/tin solder ( soft, silver coloured, and shiny) or Braze metal ( harder, golden coloured and also shiny on the cut)

    I examined all six tanks. In every case , for a given tank, filler spout and pump tube shared the same type of jointing material.

    Four of the tanks has Lead/ Tin solder joints. The remaining two had brass-colured braze jointing metal.

    One of these tanks was in an Optimus 111B stove, The other came from an Op.111B but is currently installed in a Primus/Optimus hybrid Frankenstove.

    One possibiility is that Optimus utilised all-brazed joints on Op 111 gasoline/petrol fuelled models, and Lead/Tin solder for their Kerosene/alcohol models.

    Certainly both Swedish and British manufactureres tended to use all-brazed contruction for their gasoline/petrol fuelled stoves such as Pr. 70/71, Op.80 and Lamb stoves.

    Best Regards,
    Kerophile.
     
  7. presscall

    presscall United Kingdom PotY Winner SotM Winner SotY Winner Subscriber

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    Most certainly brazed on this Optimus 22B and I think Kerophile's reasoning that brazing was used on the 'B' (petrol fuelled) versions is sound.

    John
     
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  8. theyellowdog

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    So the question remains, how to remove the tube.

    I am sure propane won't do it, maybe mapp gas or a grunty blow torch would work. It is likely that the tank mounts will detach with the heat but they are easy to reattach.
     
  9. loco7stove

    loco7stove Subscriber

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    A propane torch will easily de-solder the pump if it's a paraffin model & if you're not too happy about doing it send me a PT & i'll give you a hand :D

    Stu :D :thumbup:
     
  10. theyellowdog

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    I am assuming his second tank has a braised tube. Propane will struggle because the tank is big.
     
  11. Afterburner

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    If the tank is big you'll need a BIG propane torch also. :lol: :lol:
     
  12. loco7stove

    loco7stove Subscriber

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    You Havn't seen my torches :shock:

    Stu :D
     
  13. 1966dave

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    .....its always about size........ :roll:





    :lol:
     
  14. Caveman

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    Morning gentlemen!
    Never had the misfortune of this. I am assuming the thread is stripped. If the Thread is gone on the NRV you might be able to nip hold of it with a pair of long artery forceps (Kellys) and gentle pull and unscrew? Add to this a push from behind through the filler neck with a stiff bent wire? Maybe even pressurize the tank with an airgun might get the NRV to start to engage? If the thread in the tube is gone then, as you were :(
    May the Force be with you!
    B
     
  15. snwcmpr

    snwcmpr SotM Winner Subscriber

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    This problem is similar to why I needed to learn to solder a pump tube off/on. The tutorials here were all I needed to do the job. It even covered what to do when a leg fell off, which did happen.

    Ken in NC
     
  16. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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  17. Tony Press

    Tony Press United Kingdom Subscriber

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    It is always a good thing to seek out the wise... The problem is solved (see below).

    Thanks everyone for the advice and assistance.

    In discussion with Stu (loco7stove) he suggested that I might check the thickness of the washer on the NRV. This led me to take a closer look down the pump tube with a pencil light.

    What had happened is the last lead washer had adhered to the bottom of the pump tube. It would allow the NRV to "engage" but then disengage on attempting to tighten further. I fitted a thinner washer and was then able to tighten the whole thing up properly!

    In the process I have leaned a few things:

    I can take out and put back a soldered pump tube;

    Optimus 111s have both soldered and brazed tanks; and most of all

    you are all a great bunch of people in helping others.

    I am also inspired now to go and find a skilled instrument-maker to teach me how to braze properly.

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  18. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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