Greeting all! Below is a new to me Turm. It seems to run well and is indeed a nice, well tempered stove for the moka pot. I have read a couple of threads about disassembly and restoration and now have some questions before tormenting a functioning stove. Firstly what sort of seals are in the fuel pipe swivel joint? Am I going to find o-rings or flat rubber washers that I can make? (Yes viton/nitrile...) Secondly paint colour? This stove has clearly been brush painted with black and now some orange is peeping through where it has worn. I have seen both black and I think an red-orange one in the gallery. Which would be the original colour? Cheers, and many thanks in advance. B @alnl1996
G'day mate, I have 3 of these, two like yours, and one later model. I don't think there is a seal in that joint, I think it has a gland inside the joint. I haven't had mine apart, and they don't leak there. If it gets a little loose, use the pin on the end of the regulator handle to tighten the capstan nut. The only seal I have problems with is for the vaporizer tube (the large slotted screw below the tank lid in picture 2.) I need about a dozen of these, as all three of my Touring Turms leak there, and so do both of my Turm Sports. I would suggest removing the wick, and replacing it with fibreglass rope. You can un-braid the rope, and then wind around the wick carrier and replace. I've found that the wick never scorches this way. If you can't get the SRV in the tank lid to work, just put a dab of solder in the hole, and loosen the cap. The stove will still work. Great wee stoves, I love 'em. So quiet, so simple, and CHEAP TO RUN!!! Best regards, Mike.
The paint was always black. The red/orange one you mention Caveman was one I featured in a restoration thread and it was my choice of paint to replace the worn-out black finish. The paint under the black on yours is an anti-corrosion undercoat of red lead I'm guessing. Mike's right about the swivel joint I think. John
@The Bird Thanks Mike, I'm planning a full dismantle prior to a strip and repaint. I can't stand the housebreaker brush strokes. The seal under the fuel cap looks like hard rubber, so I can easily sort that one but the generator screw seal looks very thin. Possibly lead? I was hoping not to need to mess with the generator wick but I probably will if I get it that far apart How old do you think these stoves are? @presscall Hi John, probably not red lead from the factory, surely? Thanks for the heads up, I had not considered lead paint so I'll chemically strip the case before a repaint with high temp auto paint that can resist the priming and nearby burner. I probably have too many heavy metals in my system already, so no sandblasting for this one. @alnl1996 , it's gutting that so many stoves are missing little bits, and some not so little bits. Could be worth identifying the threads for a little fabricating? Cheers B
Looking at that 2nd picture, your stove has the tell-tale of a leaking generator seal. All of mine leak there. I thought they were a fibre washer, but thus far have not looked into it. I have two like yours, and one like this one: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/turm-sport-1970-new-in-box.17071/ I prefer the older ones to the 70's model. Cheers, Mike.
I use a viton o-ring on the vapouriser end cap screw head. Stopped the leak and seems to be holding up OK so far.
Hello Ray, Thanks for that info. I was worried about the heat, and (quite often) flame around the seal. I guess it it is sealed efficiently, there will be no such issue. I will try that out myself. Much appreciated. Best regards, Mike.
Hi Mike, The viton o-ring is still under experimentation. The end cap does get hot but not enough to melt rubber. My cooking times are usually 10 to 20 minutes and the viton seems to be holding up. I've run through at least a half dozen tanks of fuel like this. Probably there are better choices for a seal but I'm using what I have on hand. Ray
For the gen screw seal I use teflon plumber tape, it works presciently for me, just do not put on too much, even if soft, you may deform the gen tread. I too prefer the"old"one, the after 70 steel tank will corrode inside. To avoid this I put a piece of magnesium in it, as sacrificial anode on outboard foot: it works, bur it rattle carrying it with empty tank.
That is inspired! Good thinking @orsoorso . Do you think this would work to save priming tins from rusting? Cheers B
Hmm. None of my Coleman stoves have any rust inside their tanks. I always thought that they are steel. Maybe they coat the inside with something?
The steel base of this speedmaster certainly would have benefitted from something to stave off tin worm.
I am not sure if my corrosion prevention method will work for something different, I not even sure if it is it that saved the tank of my two post 70 Touring Turm from further rusting, as before putting in a piece of magnesium (that effectively corroded) I treated the tank with phosphoric acid. so I do not know which of the solution was the good on You know, better careful then sorry.
Hunt for my post a while back on a Coleman 422 dissection. Dont know the history of that tank as I bought it perforated. Looked like an epoxy coating very poorly applied.
