Ok so as per my other thread I have fully refurbished my burner and intervals of my no.12 and now thought I would turn my attention to the outside. The case is in ok condition but has seen better days with its fair share of scrapes. The underside having taken most of them. Has any one ever repainted the outer case of a number 12, or could some one offer advice on stripping and repainting especially on getting the old paint off and the best paint to use.
@Spud I have a feeling you may be redirected to threads on electrolysis to remove the old paint etc. I would experiment a bit with Nitromors paint stripper myself to start. Having said that the electolysis does look good once should get set up. Good luck Nick
Being Stainless Steel, a going over with nitromors is the answer. Then autosol and polish it up to a high lustre Arm permitting...... Alec
Good idea Alec about getting back to bare metal and keeping it that way. If you want to restore it to an authentic painted finish Spud it's a matt olive drab, probably to a specification defined by MOD or NATO. I got this aerosol can of something similar from a model shop to paint a wartime issue Coleman Speedster font. Usefully, it's fuel resistant once its aged a bit. John
Hi, Alec offered you some sound advice. If you must strip existing paint from stainless steel you should consider just polishing it, unless you are concerned about the reflective surface alerting the enemy to your presence.. It is a serious challenge getting paint to adhere sucessfully to stainless steel surfaces unless specific surface preparation and special paint systems are used: http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=119 Best Regards, Kerophile.
Interesting thing about painting "big stuff" with model paint... Colour has "scale". It upsets a lot of people when you mention it for some reason, my maths teacher back in the day could be driven apoplectic by mention of the issue (sorry Mr. McCart) but if you ever feel the inclination, try (say) painting a toy car with a colour match can designed for real vehicles... I guarantee you it will appear too dark to the eye. Same works in reverse should you happen to want to cover a scratch in the paint on your tank, if you use a spray can designed for a model the resprayed area will appear too light. I presume this is why they don't sell model paints with BS/RAL codes.
Not all models are 1/72 scale of course and many are a good deal larger than a Coleman Speedster font. It wasn't a little Humbrol 'tinlet' I was using either. The finish doesn't look too light to my eye, but maybe if I were to remove my shades ... John
You're not trying to match a colour though. I have a 1/35 scale British army No.2 burner and if I used NATO IRR Green on it (what my full size No.2s are painted in) it'll look near black. Curious, but there ya go. Try it sometime when you're bored.
Hi @spud13 , OCD Rules! Looks like a candidate for bead blasting. It would look awesome, and probaly cost less than a good paint job! https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/nomad-nova-multifuel-stove-gen-2.27383/#post-279167 https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/glass-bead-blasting-your-thoughts.27259/ Best Regards, Kerophile.
Sounds like a good option kerophile and with this not being museum piece I wouldn't upset any one. The next question that I need to ask myself is, do I paint it green as original or go for a black for example....as this will be a working stove complimenting the rest of my kit / car.l
I've opted for a two pronged decadent approach. This case I will be painting to match the colour of my car, I am watching a case only on ebay that if I win, i will refurbish that to original.
