First-time paint 111 cases using paint-stripper

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by IvarS, Mar 20, 2016.

  1. IvarS

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    Inspired by other threads here at CCS; I decided to try painting two cases for the first time. I have some 111 that is rusty and (ab)used by the army up here. My plan was to give a `make-over` to two of these.

    If anyone has good tips to this thread; please do not hesitate!

    I wanted to make two `users` for my outdoor trips and had no ambitions ta paint them in perfectly same colour as the originals. So i chose to use different colours.

    Not really sure whether it is necessary to use electrolysis bath or if a good paint strip was enough. I decided to try only paint stripper and some steel wool.
    • Can anyone explain when it is needed with electrolysis bath and when paint stripper is OK?

    • Is it important to protect (paint to avoid rust) inside the small `rolled bends`where upper case and lower case meet?

    • I guess using primer is a good thing when painting these cases?

    One of the cases before I started:
    Utan namn.jpg


    After paint-stripper, steel wool, cleaned with methylated spirit and dried. I tried a few different options for how to hold the case when painting, decided to hang it up:
    DSC_0280.JPG

    I figured out; hanging the case gave me good options to turn it and reach all tricky, small parts with spray-can.

    After two thin layers with primer and two thin layers with paint:
    Repaint Drag (1).JPG


    I used paint from http://www.maston.fi/products/en/category/10/103/100-series-spray - three thin layers with paint and I will test the stove (let it dry for one week first)
    Repaint Drag (2).JPG

    As I started out planning to test-paint two 111 to be my user-stoves; now I have to think twice; the result was better than I expected. Do I really bring these nice stoves out? (sure I will). Looking forward to test the strength of this paint when dried complete (7 days).
    Repaint Drag (5).JPG

    The second case painted black
    Repaint Drag (7).JPG
     
  2. IvarS

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    And when painting; several thin layers is important, and to let them dry before applying new layer.

    I am happy with the result and have learned a lot. May be I try electrolyze next time.
     
  3. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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  4. IvarS

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    I will wait until the paint is fully cured/hard. For sure I will make these liners @kerophile - one of many good things I have learned here at CCS! The more I read and follow threads, the more I learn and in that way I get inspired to go on.

    Guess I was a bit surprised; this brace of stoves (`brace`means two, right? ref. another thread here) in one way seem to be too good for my regular use. But they will.
     
  5. bem1965 Sweden

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    @IvarS
    Electrolysis is needed (helpful?) when the case is in really bad shape, not only slightly neglected as in your example. My favorite thread is by @presscall about his rustbucket https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/rustbucket.12194/. When I repainted a case for a 111 I used engine paint that needed curing in an oven, that case is not so pretty anymore since it has been used extensively.....

    How important it is with getting paint into the rolled up edges I do not know, paint is primarily an aesthetic thing that helps prevent corrosion, your case looks as good as it was when it left the factory!

    I think your paint looks beautiful and hope it will keep up, a 111 should not be a shelf queen they were made to be used!

    /Lars
     
  6. Afterburner

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    Very professional paint work @IvarS :thumbup::clap:

    One of these days I need to try to paint my 111 cases also...
     
  7. IvarS

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    @Afterburner - paint-job was fun and not as tricky as I thought. Paint was even from Finland, you know `Maston`? And do tell me when parcel arrives.

    @bem1965 - as I guessed; electrolysis for the cases if they are really rustbuckets like the one you linked to. Paint-stripper + steel-wool + primer + paint works good for the rest.

    I do agree with you; the 111 should be used, that is how it started for me (those who are unfired could/should be kept that way).

    I have now tested (and learned more) painting two 111 and will test them, use them to see if the paint is strong enough for ordinary use, tenting, spilling fuel.

    I have also considered to use heat-resistant/machine paint for one case to see if that is better for use. My outdoor-company needs 10 good `user-stoves` (will be used by others than me...)

    I think this case could need a re-paint, see pic. I do not really think the original paint on newer 111 is very strong.. Looks sweet when brand new, but some use and it comes easily off, especially from the lower part of case.

    IMG_0329.JPG
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2016
  8. IvarS

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    If the 111 has some weak points; I guess the hinges at the front is one of them. The front on this case fell off before I got it. I have seen that on several others as well.

    IMG_0315.JPG IMG_0316.JPG

    I am absolutely beginner when it comes to soldering, but tried my best and I think the result was OK. I am keen to learn more about that. Surprised how solid it seem to be; tested the front and strength seem to be just OK for its purpose.

    IMG_0338.JPG

    If anyone ever need to see how hinges look like at Optimus 111 without paint; a few pics:

    IMG_0337.JPG IMG_0339.JPG

    And to my own question (further up);

    Is it important to protect (paint to avoid rust) inside the small `rolled bends`where upper case and lower case meet?


    After paint stripping and cleaning, still some `mud` (rust and paint stripper?) inside these `rolled bends`. Not sure if I am confident with start painting before cleaned up and dried in these bends.

    IMG_0340.JPG