Optimus 111B manual? Parts interchange?

Hi all,

I was at the thrift store today and stumbled on an Optimus 111B for $12.99 which I of course purchased! I've been bitten by the old stove bug a couple times in the past in the form of still using my father's Svea 123 and using a No. 45 with my Sea Swing in my sailboat.

Here's my question, can any one of you direct me to where I can find a manual for the 111B? I've already gathered that its fuel is white gas and not kerosene. I've also read that you could run kerosene (paraffin) but that the flame is just not as good. Is this correct? It does have a preheater cup which is why I ask.

As for my new stove, it has been used but not that much. The tank is nice and shiny but the burner looks as if it has been used at least a few times.

Is the NRV in the bottom of the pump like that in my No. 45? I have a tool to remove the one in my 45, will it work on the 111B? Are the NRV parts interchangeable?

The tank cap has a pressure relief valve (I'm guessing) that has a pentagon opening. Does this help with the identification and dating?

Any general advice regarding parts I might as well change out now before testing it? The pump leather is definitely in need of replacement.

Thanks

Christine

 

Christine, great find! The 111b is my new favorite white gas stove ( whatever is most recent is usually my new favorite). The stove reference library has 111b manuals. I believe the nrv is the same as in my 00 but I have not had it out yet. Optimus was good at using the same components in multiple models. Even though it burns gas it needs to preheat hence the cup. I am new to 111s so am not the authority on all things 111. I am sure experts will be along soon with much better advise. Someone on this site always is always thoroughly acquainted with whatever you need help with. But I know when you light it you will be pleased.

Ivan

 

Hiya Christine,

I would urge you to replace the pump valve rubber pip and safety relief valve rubber pip with new ones. You should also replace the filler cap seal, and perhaps the leather pump cup too. These parts can be obtained from the Fettlebox, on this site. Instructions can be found in the stove reference library here also. Good luck!

Cheers
Simon Foxxx

 

The 111B is designed for gas. There are only 2 vaporizer tubes as opposed to 4 tubes in kerosene versions.
The tool should work. I do not recall tube diameters, but if the tool fits it will work.
I recommend replacement of all seals, nrv, and srv. Especially be aware if the nrv leaks with gas, it is more of a problem than with kerosene.

https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/optimus-22b-111b.32797/

Ken in NC

 

Super nice find Cristine.

I had understood that the "vaporizer" tubes on the 111B are just supports for the flame plate, but do not carry fuel. If so, the burner works more along the lines of other small petrol/gasoline stoves where the hot base of the burner is sufficient to vaporize fuel. That is the reason kerosene burns rather poorly.

Even with white gas, it is probably not a stove you would want to use on your boat. But you seem lucky -- you'll find a 111 or 111T at some point and either of those would be a nice second stove, if your boat has room.

 

So that negates part of my statement above. Thanks for the clarification.

 

One of the two tubes on 111B has the same purpose that the 4th tube on 111 (kerosene), and that is for pouring spirit into the preheater cup (atleast on later versions of the burner). Than it is obvious that there are no vaporizer tubes on 111B, because the one that is not open in both ends, can not let the gas both up and down again. And what looks like 4 vaporizer tubes on 111 (kerosene) is 3, two upstream and 1 down stream.

 

Hi all,

Thanks all for the information and the advice.

Opt. 45 in my Sea Swing (kero) will keep on being the stove for my boat but this 111B will probably go in my truck for when I'm in the mountains camping. The boat is only 16' long (see attached) so there is little extra room for a second stove. Besides, when I cruise, I don't bring things that need to be refrigerated so nothing must be cooked to eat. :-)

I very much appreciate the "shopping list" of items I should replace. I figured that replacing some of the components would improve the stove's performance but I had not anticipated the safety issues associated with it being a white-gas fueled stove and the importance of having all of the seals needing to be in good shape, although as soon as I read those comments, it made perfect sense.

Thanks also into the insight into the operation of the stove regarding the burner. I always like knowing not just how to operate a stove, tool, machine, but also how it works.

I'll post back once I get my parts and get it running!

Best,

Christine

 

I'm always a bit surprised at the "change all the seals" approach, but to each his own. I bought a very used 111B a year or so ago, it fired right up and continues to make coffee in my shop, have never done nothing to it. Oh, I might have oiled the pump leather.
This is my approach on almost everything. If it leaks, I will deal with it. If not, well, let sleeping dogs lie. The tiny bit of fuel that may leak out of a font is not going to create a blowtorch, font is not going to blow up. If you wish to be truly safe with stoves, never ever light them.

 

Christine,
Congrats on the score, I share a bit of excitement of you finding a classic for just $13 !!
If excitement wears off... you're familiar with the 45. I'd suggest you might consider a search for a kero 111. It will function exactly like your tried and true 45.
[maybe a member with too many 111s might be willing to trade? ie your stove +$ for a working kero 111]
There are many 111 models, their production spans many decades and there are some you may want to avoid.
IF this kero idea is something you want to consider next question imo is
which model / vintage 111 has the most in-common with your 45? helpful to know re maintenance parts etc, as you do have parts interchange in OP title.
just tossin it out here, thx omc

 

I have to disagree with Majicwrench.

I have seen the non-return valve on a 111B fail.
Fortunately it was out in the open and not on a boat.
The initial flame was wide, fierce and at least 3 feet (1 m) tall.
Once started, the flame then drew out more fuel under pressure.
A number of very well known CCS members were present at this event and quick thinking quickly extinguished the flame.

 

I also disagree with @Majicwrench in that this is a gasoline stove with kerosene safety design. There is no positive lock on the pump like a Coleman stove. A gasoline leak is catastrophic if not taken care of early.

There has been enough discussion here of changing the SRVs and the NRVs that any member should be acquainted with that process. Now, even the tools to do this job is being made available here and on the 'Bay'.
Not like the recent past ... We change the filler cap gasket and prayed the SRV was okay.

You can cook dried or canned foods. No requirement for refrigeration. But a nice hot meal. I dehydrate some of my favorite leftovers, vegetables, fruits, etc for enjoyment later. Packed in a mason jar, in vacuum, they stay quite fresh. (Well, as fresh as dehydrated can be.) Mason Jar Vacuum = Foodsaver Mason Jar Attachment.

Ken in NC

 

I am thinking that I, too, may actually do this, when I retire.....

I have replaced pump leathers.

 

Certainly you good folks are welcome to disagree.

I would like to know what aspect of the NRV failed on that stove that created a 3ft flame. We are not talking about a seal that does not seal well in that case, we are talking about something else.
Or how did somebody light the stove?? They pump it up, is fuel not spilling all over if NRV is leaking??

My NRV on my user 111B leaks enough that when you go to pump it up,. sometimes you get a tiny bit of fuel out of pump. How would that create a 3ft fire?? Since I never pump it once it is running, is causing me no lack of sleep.

 

Hi, I fear we are getting into Darwin Award territory.....

An Innocent Bystander....

 

Are you saying that you have white gas (fuel) leaking through the NRV and into the pump tube and you are using that stove?

Ken in NC

 

Yes, I use the stove every week, usually to make coffee, sometime soup etc here at shop. It's right behind my computer on my "kitchen" counter.

Which is kinda my point, a tiny bit of fuel is not creating a bomb or a blowtorch. For it to be a problem, I would have to pump it while running then get my (perhaps) slightly damp hand close enough to flame to ignite the drop of fuel that may have gotten on my hand.

 

I don't routinely replace all the seals etc like many here do (but then I haven't bought a used stove for years), but if it leaks I do. Don't think you should use any stove that is leaking fuel, most especially petrol.

I think you can do what Majic does but it will bite you one day.

 

Sometimes I skip on wearing my seatbelt too, which is much more likely to create a problem.

Ya, I kinda mean to fix it, other stove projects always seem to get the nod, meanwhile, the 111B keeps roaring away.

 

Fire's a beautiful thing!
My motto is" if it ain't broke, keep fixing it till it is."

Ivan